Nik's Poulan Thread

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Did Poulan sell any remanufactured cylinders? Did someone else sell them? Could it really be nos?
Thanks


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These are remanufactured overbore top ends


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Some of them had their problems, re plated cylinders with overbore new piston kits, I have some and sold some with no complaints


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I finally had a chance to look at the Poulan Pro 225 today.
The fuel line was not kinked in any place I could find so I took the fuel filter from the tank and used compressed air to blow backwards through it. That looked fine as well. I checked the Hi & Lo settings and the Lo was at 2 3/4 + and the Hi was just at 3/4. I cleaned the air filter but it really was not dirty. I then decided to take the carb out and tear it down just to look at it as I don't have a new kit for it yet. The carb screen is like brand new and all passages got a generous spray of carb clean. Then I saw something,... there are 2 welch plugs in this carb (wt20) and when I sprayed the cleaner in I saw the smaller of the 2 plugs bubble some cleaner out. I did it several times it seemed to be leaking around the edge in one very small spot. So I did something for a test of sorts I took a little 1194 and placed a small amount over the leaking plug. I have not tried to run it yet I will wait till tomorrow to be sure the 1194 is cured then I may try it. I think I will try to find a carb kit for it I am a little nervous though I have never changed a welch plug.
 
I agree it is way to open I think the previous owner may have been trying to compensate for low fuel flow. I forgot to say that I reset the metering arm as well. It was too low I used a walbro wt gauge and set it up about a 32nd of an inch.
 
Hey everyone, I finally had time to work on the 8500 this weekend. This past week I'd gathered a new oiler gasket, oiler parts (the original oiler and another), and all of the assorted parts I needed to complete this project. So what happened, you ask? I forgot the order in which all of the parts needed to be reassembled! Doesn't happen often, but when it does, I make it good! So, I'd like to send a big thank you out to Fossil, AKA Tim as he'd previously offered to send both a 5200 and 8500 manual to me electronically. Well, I reached out to Tim and in less than an hour, I had it. Thanks Tim! I hope to be able to repay the favor some time. I will post pictures of the fuzzy handles off of the 8500 and 4000's I mentioned last weekend soon. Have a great weekend everyone, Max.
 
Back to my 3.7 carb issues. Put a fresh kit in. 1 1/4 turn H-L and it started up but started to die, turned to about 1 1/2 L and then turned the idle down slightly, reved it and sounded good. It idles for a moment, bogs with throttle, then died. Restarts shortly a couple times, refuses to restart. Has spark, tested with inline tester, tweaked L from 1 to 1 3/4. Nothing. I havent checked to see if it flooded.
 
Back to my 3.7 carb issues. Put a fresh kit in. 1 1/4 turn H-L and it started up but started to die, turned to about 1 1/2 L and then turned the idle down slightly, reved it and sounded good. It idles for a moment, bogs with throttle, then died. Restarts shortly a couple times, refuses to restart. Has spark, tested with inline tester, tweaked L from 1 to 1 3/4. Nothing. I havent checked to see if it flooded.

Provided the carb is assembled and set up correctly (gaskets/diaphragm order and metering lever/spring), there are no pressure/vacuum leaks and you have sound fuel lines/filter and a functioning vent, maybe:

1) Check to see if the plug is fouled. I am thinking your L is pretty rich.
2) H is too rich. It will fall on it's face when throttled if H is also too rich. I would start at 1 or even 7/8. I have a couple 3400 that really like a lean H. In fact, start with both L and H at 1.
3) Once it is running, set the idle fast so the chain creeps. Adjust the L to find the lean and rich drop offs. Find the middle and see how it throttles and comes down off throttle. Usually (for me) I find the fastest idle (chain speed creep) with the L and richen it from there until the idle/speed/sound just "relaxes" a bit. Usually this is close to the midpoint of drop offs.
4) Check you throttle lock speed. Sometimes they don't really open the throttle enough. Especially if your AV buffers are flexing in the rear handle mount. I've one that just doesn't like to cold start unless the throttle is held open after it first pops on choke.

Just a few things to consider. Here is a Walbro troubleshooting chart. I know I posted it before.

walbro toubleshooting chart.jpg
 
It idles for a moment, bogs with throttle. Restarts shortly a couple times, refuses to restart. Has spark, tested with inline tester, tweaked L from 1 to 1 3/4. Nothing. I havent checked to see if it flooded.

Sounds just like tbe description of a big air leak; cylinder base or intake manifold loose, crank seal, etc.

Those HDB carbs are mostly bulletproof unless corroded up.

Have you pressure/vacuum tested the saw case with the exhaust port & carb mount blinded off?
 
Will try the info once I get off work. I dont have a pressure tester so havent tried that yet. Will change the needle settings first and go from there. Thanks guys. Hoping its not an air leak, would hate to take the saw apart again.
 
Did you put the correct gasket under the plate?

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I put the one in as the same that came out. Whether its the correct one that was in there or not is not to my knowledge. I got it running and idling now. But full throttle it sort of acts like a rev limiter, kinda bumping around. When you let off WOT it bogs down and tries to die. It will idle fine. Part of the flywheel is rotted away it seems but not the magnet side. Its the opposite side, would that affect the firing? Or only the magnet?
 

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