Sachs Dolmar Chainsaws Thread

Arborist Forum

Help Support Arborist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
you better go put it on and take pics... Dolmar purists will persecute you for having some random rounded corner wrap on your saw. Give that back to a husky saw... We SHUN you! :p

How can you Shun me?

Isn't that what owning an SD is all about?

If I wanted to join the 'flock' I would run Stihls!
 
YUP!

"no replacement for displacement"
I agree but I went and did something really crazy. I had an extra $250 burning a hole in my pocket and I needed a really small saw to hide in the trunk of my car. I have a NIB PS 401 so I sent it to tree monkey and he ported it for me. Wow, it is a real Mighty Mite! I know its a little bit of a waste on a 39cc saw but this is a purpose saw for work and I have to be able to tuck it in to a trunk that is already jammed with required equipment. I couldn't be happier with the outcome. Now I need to time it against my stock used DCS 401.
 
I carry a saw in my trunk too.

My drive meanders through ~1000' of woods.


From time to time it has come in handy.


I really need to try out one O' those 420's but for now an old 120 Super has me backside.

To tell the truth, when chuckin' I usually grab my 120/116si, 5100 or my 359.

Them big saws are novel, but tossing them around is no picnic.

But they do have their place, sometimes you just can't accept substitutes eh?

411.JPG
 
Got the 545, ended up costing a little more ($10). That's with a new B&C and new side cover. Ran it yesterday, nice, now I'm not sure I am going to sell it. Going to have to run them both for awhile.

So I have a Husky 545 (basically new),an SD 114 in very good shape (w/ a new B&C), and have ~$370 in both. While not yard sale prices I am not going to complain. ;)

Well I have run a couple of tanks full of mix thru both saws. Going to keep them both as they seem, to me, to fill different gaps. The SD feels more like my Ford F350, point it in the right direction and it'll just plow on through. The 545 is more like my Escape, quicker, nimbler, fun to drive but not able to handle the same loads.

Going to have to be very careful, CAD is contagious...
 
Update - I received this saw from an AS member in Slovenia a few months back.

KMS4 Slovenia.jpg

I finally got a around to cleaning it up today. It had a lot of oily sawdust packed around the engine housing but cleaned up pretty nicely. I had the tools I needed to pull the flywheel off (hard to clean behind it in place) but had to get some advice from Mweba on the clutch removal tool. This may come in handy again some day.

DSC05576.JPG
DSC05586.JPG


DSC05593.JPG

It cleaned up pretty well, starts, runs, oils as it should. It only runs about 5 minutes then stops until it cools off again. Anyone know where I can find an ignition module like this?

DSC05591.JPG

Mark
 
Hello all, I posted this in the main chainsaw page but I think I should have posted here. I recently bought what I thought was a Sachs Dolmar 114 that didn't run for $20. After checking it out, I found it had no spark. So I ordered a coil and am waiting for that. I also checked the ccompression an was only at 100 psi. So I decided to do rings too. Piston and cylinder look good, no scoring. Here is where things get interesting. I ordered a couple piston rings for a dolmar 114. After ordering the rings, I was looking around and all the info said that the 114 only has 1 piston ring, where the one I have has 2. According to the parts diagram, the 117 and 120 have 2 rings and a 47mm piston. I measured my piston and sure enough, 47mm. Now the chain brake cover says 114, and the first 3 of the serial number says 114. Do I really have a 114? If so, Will the bigger saws top end just bolt on like that with a smaller bottom end? I'm guessing I now have to get rings for a 117, but im not sure. A little confused. Dolmar gurus please help!
P.S. Sorry about the half a book I just wrote.
 
On a side note, if anyone in CT or MA need a piston ring for a Dolmar 112, 113, 114, or 116. OEM Part #114 132 030, I'll give you them, no charge, if you come get them.
 
nice kms- mark, and great idea on the crescent wrench mod to mweba. i can hear my 10"er rattling on the peg board now.
i'm getting into a dolmar 112 i've had for awhile,fuel lines,carb kit the usual stuff. it has a great spark and i see on acres site that it has a magneto. however i see a wire from the kill switch and one from the coil going to a grommet behind the fly wheel. did some of these have a points ignition ?
just want to make sure i don't miss anything while i'm cleaning things up.
 
I Have been working on a 114 Turtle. From what I understand, the 112 and 114 are nearly identical except for the 112 had points, and the 114 used a transistor pickup under the flywheel. I had no spark when I started working on it, so I upgraded to a coil from a more modern saw, (116, 6000i, 6800i). It was kind of a pain to find but I was able to locate a source for new aftermarket coils for these saws. Now if I can just find a source for a new brake band I'll be all set to cut some wood. :chainsaw:
 
I've repaired many brake bands on Sds.

If the parts are still there and the band is broke, we use a big stainless hose clamp.

Get the large ones as you don't want any of the slots in the material you will be using.

Then its just a mater of slitting the spot where they overlap (cut-off wheel) , then silver soldering the end onto the cam action mechanism and bending the 'tail tang.

I have many in service and haven't broke any yet?
 
I have also heard of using band saw blade as well. But I will try the hose clamp first, probably cheaper.
 
I've repaired many brake bands on Sds.

If the parts are still there and the band is broke, we use a big stainless hose clamp.

Get the large ones as you don't want any of the slots in the material you will be using.

Then its just a mater of slitting the spot where they overlap (cut-off wheel) , then silver soldering the end onto the cam action mechanism and bending the 'tail tang.

I have many in service and haven't broke any yet?
Good repair advice for those brake bands, done more than a few myself. Very happy I got a few of them when I bought out my old dealers leftover inventory.
 
Always good to grab a few spares when available.

I have a nice inventory for my favorites, always on the look-out for a good deal when one comes around.

Grabbed a very nice P&C a few years back for the 152/153s. If you see it and the price is right, they ain't makin' any more fo' sure.


My favorite is 'parts saws' sometimes you get a pretty complete saw for the price of one part.

If you know what your looking at mis-listed saws have proven to be the best way to get a diamond in the rough.
 
Always good to grab a few spares when available.

I have a nice inventory for my favorites, always on the look-out for a good deal when one comes around.

Grabbed a very nice P&C a few years back for the 152/153s. If you see it and the price is right, they ain't makin' any more fo' sure.


My favorite is 'parts saws' sometimes you get a pretty complete saw for the price of one part.

If you know what your looking at mis-listed saws have proven to be the best way to get a diamond in the rough.

Right after our dealer packed it in I started hoarding parts, guess I got carried away and bought up complete saws just for spares. Just a few years back I was given a nice looking 116 that needed a P&C , straight gas victim. I was looking around for parts again and stumbled into a treasure trove.
 
I've repaired many brake bands on Sds.

If the parts are still there and the band is broke, we use a big stainless hose clamp.

Get the large ones as you don't want any of the slots in the material you will be using.

Then its just a mater of slitting the spot where they overlap (cut-off wheel) , then silver soldering the end onto the cam action mechanism and bending the 'tail tang.

I have many in service and haven't broke any yet?
I might have to try this as a way to shorten the brake band on the 401 makita that I'm running an 026 clutch on (converts to actual rim drive). Anyhow the overall diameter of the 026 is 1/4-5/16 smaller which keeps the brake band from fully clamping the 026 drum.
 
Back
Top