Sachs Dolmar Chainsaws Thread

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It was 50:1 Now that I think about that day a bit more, my MS250 was using the same fuel and I ran three tanks through it. After the Dolmar went down. I have not pulled the muffler on it yet, but it never gave me any problems and never died. I only pulled the muffler on the SD today and the piston did not look good. Heavy vertical stripes could be seen through the exhaust port. I had a thread in the regular chainsaw section, but I thought I would shift fire over here where the SD gurus live. I think I will start over by doing an actual compression test to see where I am at.
I am a big believer in doing the simplest things first when bird dogging an engine.

Well, I did that compression test today and I have a whopping 26psi on the SD (ten pulls). For kicks, I checked compression on my MS290 and it came in a 125 psi (ten pulls). Then I pulled out an old Poulan 2900 and it came in a 123psi (ten pulls).

So, now what??? I don't want to start out with "while your at it disease", but I know there are some practical things to do while I have the saw apart.
I have turned plenty of wrenches and gone through the top end on a couple of other two strokes, but never a chainsaw. It is all so...little. What are some of the things to look for on a saw. I had someone recommend doing a pressure test on the crankcase. Is that something I can do or will I need to find a shop?
I figure that I need to at least:
~ clean up cylinder/ iinstal new piston (where do I find that piston guys???)
~ Carb kit and fuel lines
What else (if anything)?
Thanks in advance....
 
Is there anybody on here that has, and uses both a 6100 and a 6400?
I have and use a 6100 and love it. It is a great saw for the type work I do.
Was wondering if any advantage to a 6400 besides a slight increase in power.
 
Is there anybody on here that has, and uses both a 6100 and a 6400?
I have and use a 6100 and love it. It is a great saw for the type work I do.
Was wondering if any advantage to a 6400 besides a slight increase in power.
Ability to toss on a 79cc or 84cc top end and run a 32" bar in the future.
 
Well, I did that compression test today and I have a whopping 26psi on the SD (ten pulls). For kicks, I checked compression on my MS290 and it came in a 125 psi (ten pulls). Then I pulled out an old Poulan 2900 and it came in a 123psi (ten pulls).

So, now what??? I don't want to start out with "while your at it disease", but I know there are some practical things to do while I have the saw apart.
I have turned plenty of wrenches and gone through the top end on a couple of other two strokes, but never a chainsaw. It is all so...little. What are some of the things to look for on a saw. I had someone recommend doing a pressure test on the crankcase. Is that something I can do or will I need to find a shop?
I figure that I need to at least:
~ clean up cylinder/ iinstal new piston (where do I find that piston guys???)
~ Carb kit and fuel lines
What else (if anything)?
Thanks in advance....
The pressure test is done with a mityvac (usually). You block the exhaust and intake and then pressure and vac test through the impulse line. This just tests the seals on the crank to make sure they aren't leaking.

You might want to double check your compression number with another guage. 120psi is the line in the sand where saws start to have problems running right. Stihl at 26PSI you might need a whole top end... I suggests new seals and fuel lines while your in there just b/c you can.

Check the squish and drop the cylinder down a little if you can delete the base gasket.
 
yea I heard from mitch that the coils on those get kinda tired like that. they heat up and quit working.
 
Found a 115i sitting in a shed for a long time. I think it has hardly run a couple of hours. Only needed to replace the fuel line and membranes and it runs again:) The compression is insane on this thing, hang it on the starter rope and it even wont drop!
IMG_1532_1.jpg


IMG_1527_1.jpg
 
Found a 115i sitting in a shed for a long time. I think it has hardly run a couple of hours. Only needed to replace the fuel line and membranes and it runs again:) The compression is insane on this thing, hang it on the starter rope and it even wont drop!
IMG_1532_1.jpg


IMG_1527_1.jpg

Very nice condition, definitely a very nice saw. I have several of them that I run for firewood cutting and they are a strong saw. Your choke looks like its just the regular pull out choke plate type, that is interesting as I can see the injected logo on the clutch cover that usually denotes the saw having the flip over type of injector choke setup.
 
Thanks for confirming my thoughts. I heat shrunk a fuel line on it and a very small amount of mix weeped out when the saw was on it's side. I have come up with a better design (I think) and will post pics of it once I get the required parts.

Well several things have happened. I found a complete original vent setup, ordered it and the post office lost it. :mad:

So I put on my thinking cap :cry: and came up with an idea. I found a flow check vent for a small weed eater that fits the same size line that the tank vent does, filed a small groove in the vent post to allow air in and installed it with the flow check valve on it. Works like a charm, no leakage at all and still plenty of air in to equalize the pressure. :D

I'll post pics in the next day or so.

Going to be fun testing this saw against the Husky 545 I have coming.
 
Very nice condition, definitely a very nice saw. I have several of them that I run for firewood cutting and they are a strong saw. Your choke looks like its just the regular pull out choke plate type, that is interesting as I can see the injected logo on the clutch cover that usually denotes the saw having the flip over type of injector choke setup.

Thanks. I've seen the turn-chokes on the 116-120 models but never on the 115 series, these have normally all pull-chokes. Interested to see the 115 with the turning choke, maybe it's a very early model? This 115i has the normal Tillotson injection carb, I think later models can have also the Walbro carb.
 
Thanks. I've seen the turn-chokes on the 116-120 models but never on the 115 series, these have normally all pull-chokes. Interested to see the 115 with the turning choke, maybe it's a very early model? This 115i has the normal Tillotson injection carb, I think later models can have also the Walbro carb.

Many 115`s have passed through my hands over the years, many with the regular choke, a few with the injector choke and only one or two with the flip style. None of these saws were new so they may have been swapped over by a previous owner or possibly came that way. My latest 115`s that I have picked up are just like yours, they run really nicely and start very easily.
 
Anyone have a pic of a cherry 143 MX?

Acquired a couple from the left coast over a few years, me thinks I have enough to make one original (except the decals).

The other can be a worker, (wrong handle, broken spike mount, etc.)

Yup even have the 'lightweight' full wrap, original dawgs and better carb and si type muffler.
 
Looking for 144 IPL or if someone knows what's compatible between the 144 and 152/153 series that would be helpful. Looking into swapping some parts around to get my 153 running.


Cheers
nate
If you don`t get the parts around to fix yours you could pull the cylinder and send it to me?
 
Anyone have a pic of a cherry 143 MX?

Acquired a couple from the left coast over a few years, me thinks I have enough to make one original (except the decals).

The other can be a worker, (wrong handle, broken spike mount, etc.)

Yup even have the 'lightweight' full wrap, original dawgs and better carb and si type muffler.
Pardon my ignorance but what is an MX?
 

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