What is the acceptable warm up time of a 550xp?

[sparks66]

So, if i understand right the high side is adjusted by autotune, and the low side still has a screw? If thats the case, sounds like all it does need is the low side opened up some....

Made a huge difference in how long to warm up, hardly no time at all now. And the throttle response improved where there is no hesitation now.. Big difference, worked for me, backed the screw out 1/4 turn turn....Saw now is a dream too run..... Brad you were so right...

 

[blsnelling]

Excellent

 

[Tzed250]

550 ain't so bad after all...

 

[TK]

I went ahead and popped mine apart for a pic for clarification.

 

[blsnelling]

That little slotted head is a needle, just like you're used to seeing in a carb. You can bottom it out fur a reference setting, and then remove it to see for yourself. It's a shame that you have to take the saw apart to adjust it. At least it's there!

 

[Chris-PA]

This makes perfect sense. All this system does is periodically lean test the mixture and compensate based on what it sees. But that only works at WOT, how would it lean test during acceleration - the situation is changing constantly? Also, idle must be set richer than would be ideal, as it supplies the extra fuel for acceleration, and I suspect it would be difficult to make it control for a mixture very far from correct with a lean test.

 

[tollster]

Is that it on the seating face at 11 O'clock? Is there much disassembly needed, like you can do it in the woods, or more of a bench job?

How far out from the seated position did you back it out?

I take this was done at the factory for EPA testing, so I am assuming you are richening the low end circuit, Correct?

 

[spike60]

Made a huge difference in how long to warm up, hardly no time at all now. And the throttle response improved where there is no hesitation now.. Big difference, worked for me, backed the screw out 1/4 turn turn....Saw now is a dream too run..... Brad you were so right...

Yeah, a 1/4 turn does it. I've done it on a 545 as well as a 550. Sweet. Very easy to do 5 minute job. The carb doesn't have to be removed from the saw; just rotate the filter holder up out of the way.

So, for all of you guys who want to be able to adjust your carbs, there ya go! :msp_tongue:

 

[albert]

Does the adjustment help both cold start/warm up and hot restart issues. What is the main cause of the hot start problem they have had?

 

[tollster]

I adjusted the screw 1/4 turn out from FACTORY position, And it won't fire, after about 10 pulls, it has one cycle where tries to fire, but won't. choke or no choke. I'll take in 1/8 turn and look for improvement...

I took it back to the original position and if fired right up, I will toy with it some tomorrow. I did the muffler mod on mine, but don't think this would be an issue. Got the saw in October.

 

[spike60]

Does the adjustment help both cold start/warm up and hot restart issues. What is the main cause of the hot start problem they have had?

There are no hot restart issues with the 545/550; only the 555/562. The problem was the coil would lose reserve voltage when hot. There is a new replacement coil................which is on backorder for month or so.:msp_angry:

 

[lmbrman]

What is the main cause of the hot start problem they have had?

plenty of people on here know more than me, i can only speak to my experience, which is that everybody that has tried my 550 or 562 was unable to start it. They all choked it once warm, not understanding the switch operation. Obviously there have been some other issues as mentioned on here by spike and others, so it is not always that simple.

About a dozen people tried and could never start my saw. Starts perfect for me. I dont really like the switch myself, but i understand how it works.

No offense to those with actual problems.

 

[sunfish]

plenty of people on here know more than me, i can only speak to my experience, which is that everybody that has tried my 550 or 562 was unable to start it. They all choked it once warm, not understanding the switch operation. Obviously there have been some other issues as mentioned on here by spike and others, so it is not always that simple.

About a dozen people tried and could never start my saw. Starts perfect for me. I dont really like the switch myself, but i understand how it works.

No offense to those with actual problems.

Yeah, the new switch takes getting used to. It's always on, but some folks want to left it up, which is choke. Bad for warm start...:msp_smile:

 

[TK]

plenty of people on here know more than me, i can only speak to my experience, which is that everybody that has tried my 550 or 562 was unable to start it. They all choked it once warm, not understanding the switch operation. Obviously there have been some other issues as mentioned on here by spike and others, so it is not always that simple.

About a dozen people tried and could never start my saw. Starts perfect for me. I dont really like the switch myself, but i understand how it works.

No offense to those with actual problems.

Sounds like saw security to me.

 

[SawTroll]

plenty of people on here know more than me, i can only speak to my experience, which is that everybody that has tried my 550 or 562 was unable to start it. They all choked it once warm, not understanding the switch operation. Obviously there have been some other issues as mentioned on here by spike and others, so it is not always that simple.

About a dozen people tried and could never start my saw. Starts perfect for me. I dont really like the switch myself, but i understand how it works.

No offense to those with actual problems.

Touching the choke on a warm saw (putting it in "high idle") is not needed, but the manual tells you to, and it should start anyway. The best with a really warm saw mostly is to just put the saw at "on" (not needed on the newer Huskys, that always are "on"), and pull the rope. I assume the manuals doesnt describe this option because there are no bulletproof way to describe the differense between warm and ljuke-warm (when "high idle" is needed).

 

[blsnelling]

I adjusted the screw 1/4 turn out from FACTORY position, And it won't fire, after about 10 pulls, it has one cycle where tries to fire, but won't. choke or no choke. I'll take in 1/8 turn and look for improvement...

I took it back to the original position and if fired right up, I will toy with it some tomorrow. I did the muffler mod on mine, but don't think this would be an issue. Got the saw in October.

I'm thinking that something besides the needle adjustment caused your saw to not run.

 

[porsche965]

My 550XP, even substantially modified, runs flawlessly. Had it out the last time in 26* weather and it gave no trouble.

Mine TOO! :msp_biggrin:

 

[lovemysan]

the OP bought a new saw, it started running funny, and instead of taking it back to the dealer for warranty service he gets on here and asks what to do.

Been sick with a nasty virus/sinus infection/bronchitis. Before that working 70 hours a week and raising 4 children prevented me from sparing time to take it in. Called the shop and tech is out till friday. I need the saw saturday. This saw is used 90% of the time cutting firewood for charitable purposes. But... because I did post on AS first I can walk out and fatten the mixture and see how it runs. I think it'll be fine. If not I'll take it in next week. I don't really like the dealer and I hate to be that customer that walks in says "saw runs good but its too picky to start"

 

[lmbrman]

Sounds like saw security to me.

good one TK- the sad part is it was secure from me till i learned how to start it :bang:

 

[TK]

As was a homely Stihl ms250ce to me once

Different saws have their quirks. As do tractors or snowblowers or cars or trucks. They all do different things but are still normal.