Skil 1716/ PM 340 Restoration

Arborist Forum

Help Support Arborist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

chainsawwhisperer

Futuaris Nisi Irrisus Ridebis
. AS Supporting Member.
Joined
Mar 24, 2007
Messages
1,247
Reaction score
244
Location
Hopping down the bunny trail
Well, it seems that I have been bitten by the restoration bug.
The saw was manufactured by PM but sold as a Skil. Skil saw fit to spray the entire saw a cr@ppy shade of orange, Man, they sprayed everything- carb, cylinder, hardware,etc.
My restoration converted the saw from Skil orange to PM cream and red, granted it was not a "true" restoration because of the paint change, but close enough.
The overall shape of the saw was pretty good, It doesn't look like it's seen much use. The sprocket is in fair shape, and the compression is great.
The exterior hardware is kinda chewed up, but most of that will be replaced.
Most of the engineering behind the saw is solid, But some is surprisingly rudimentary, most likely done for cost reasons, the cylinder porting for ex. Although I haven't split the case halves yet, the main bearings appear to be quite small.
CSW

my.php
[/URL][/IMG]




Man, I SOO want to open those ports, to unleash the PM fury trapped within!
 
Last edited:
Get a load of these transfer ports! Looks like it was designed to have 3 openings but for some unknown reason the manufacturer
only bored 2 of them. Makes me wonder if the actual PM version
had all 3 holes ??? and the Skil version was slightly detuned.
Any thoughts?


Painted a few things over the past 3 weeks
Rattle can base coat:


Rattle can clear:




I'm pleasantly surprised how good a job can be done with a spray can if you take your time.
 
Yes, those are off the shelf rattle can colors. I guess it's all in the prep work, some of the parts were blasted(top, and side covers)
The other parts (case halvs, and small parts) were sanded.
I started with several coats of primer( the top cover was puttyed and sanded then sanded between coats) Then the color was applied in several coats, the 1st coat being just a tack coat to hang the rest of the paint on, I hit thing with a heat gun between coats, to cure the paint. Then finally 3 coats of clear.
CSW
 
The paint is gloss, The cream has been clear coated, the top has not.
When I get the decals then the top will be cleared. I might use something more durable than rattle can clear. Any ideas?
CSW

Rattle can is what I use. Holds up well to gas and oil but not to scrapes / chips. Funny, it holds up very well on my golf woods.

I've thought about trying the epoxy appliance spray but I don't know if it comes in clear.
 
I just finished this Skil 1629/1631. Thanks to Cambl for the parts saw!
There was some talk awhile ago about the cylinders on these saws: some had 2 drilled transfer ports, some had 3. The ports on this saw and the parts saw from cambl, both had the entire transfer cast into the cylinder. Also these cylinders are chrome plated vs. the iron liner on the earlier PM 340 based saws.

BTW I repainted the saw with the same paint as my other pm saw, execpt for the top cover

0313131236.jpg




 
I was hoping to have the saw done for Weimedogs GTG on Sun. But I still do not have the recoil:mad:

Does anyone have parts for these saws, or a junk one?
CSW


I may have one of those saws with a good recoil, I'll let you know

The reason I did not have the recoil is because it was being welded... but thanks!
FYI, this thread is from 2009, i resurected it to post up pics of the new Skil/Pm:)
jim
 
PM 340 Recoil and other issues

I picked up a 1968 pm 340 from my neighbor. this thin is loud and mean. 69cc. Im having a problem with the recoil though. there are 2 u shaped aluminum pieced the spring out when you pull the rip cord. they sling out and catch the flywheel, the problem is they arent catching anymore. i tried turning them around so the other side grabs thats not worn but it didnt work. it appears the inner area that gets grabbed is worn down from 45 years of use. should i try welding in more material, or make longer fingers??? . The other problem is last time i used it.. it started up great, and had good throttle response. But as soon as you hit half throttle it died. almost like it lost fuel. i didnt touch the high rpm fuel air mixture or anything. are there 2 jets in the carb and maybe one got junk in it>? any help is much appreciated. thanks.
ps. that saw is friggin beautiful man
 
Back
Top