372 xpw cylinder?

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Yep 20°.

Its not that simple. Every design is different. Quad ports, two port, tight case volume, and on and on.....

All these things change the timing numbers that will work best.

There's just no simple answer.

On your 372, I would cut .050" from the squish, set the ex to 102°, the transfers to 120, and just square up the intake.
 
Something that should be mentioned, but often isn't, at least to keep in mind for the chainsaw porting learning crowd, is that there is no free lunch- everything is a tradeoff or a compromise of something else.


More power is achieved at the expense of fuel economy. A saw can be ported for more torque to run a longer bar, but often at the detriment to peak RPM, which results is slower chain speed, which can make the saw actually slower in smaller wood with shorter bars. And inversely, a saw that becomes a "screamer" with more RPM in the cut for a given bar may be sacrificing torque in the lower RPM range that would be noticed if you are trying to run a longer bar or start a chain in the middle of a cut.

Tricks can be played for higher compression to squeeze out more power, opening exhaust restrictions, or adding bridge/finger ports to achieve better flow, but the engineers who designed these saws and engines probably knew a hell of a lot more than we do when we adjust their characteristics to make them "moar better" by grinding on them.

While these saws were designed to cover a broad range of use cases (long and short bars, soft and hard wood, operating conditions from high altitudes to sea level, etc) porting can sometimes make a saw perform better in specific cases, but not as well in others.

The only thing I think about is what compromises they made (such as for EPA emissions) when they designed these saws, and would overriding those choices make a better saw for me?

I tend to take a minimalist approach to augmenting the original design, but others have luck with more radical changes. I personally believe you begin chasing diminishing returns after a certain point.

Anyway, just something to throw out there to remind people of.
Great post, I agree with everything I understood and a little bit of knowledge is a dangerous thing.. Lol
Now with all that knowledge I'm surprised you and Shane couldn't figure out your wiring system for your 372 in under 90 days..lol or is it still unresolved?
Great post !
 
Great post, I agree with everything I understood and a little bit of knowledge is a dangerous thing.. Lol
Now with all that knowledge I'm surprised you and Shane couldn't figure out your wiring system for your 372 in under 90 days..lol or is it still unresolved?
Great post !
Lol. Mine is fixed, and as near factory spec as can be. You probably couldn't tell it from OEM unless you had it side by side.
 
I appreciate giving me some numbers to go by. I will probably avoid changing the timing until I understand more about it. But would it make sense to widen the ports without changing timing?
 
I appreciate giving me some numbers to go by. I will probably avoid changing the timing until I understand more about it. But would it make sense to widen the ports without changing timing?

Widen the exhaust? Yes. Widen the intake, not necessary. Widen the upper transfer? Maybe a little on the secondary toward the exhaust, but it's difficult and only provides marginal returns.

Giving you numbers won't help unless you have a degree wheel. If you have a degree wheel you can get the numbers. If you aren't machining the case or cylinder, don't worry about numbers.
 
Widen the exhaust? Yes. Widen the intake, not necessary. Widen the upper transfer? Maybe a little on the secondary toward the exhaust, but it's difficult and only provides marginal returns.

Giving you numbers won't help unless you have a degree wheel. If you have a degree wheel you can get the numbers. If you aren't machining the case or cylinder, don't worry about numbers.

Well said.
 
Yep 20°.

Its not that simple. Every design is different. Quad ports, two port, tight case volume, and on and on.....

All these things change the timing numbers that will work best.

There's just no simple answer.

On your 372, I would cut .050" from the squish, set the ex to 102°, the transfers to 120, and just square up the intake.

Ok this is definitely in my wheel house ha-ha

It's a good thing I am somewhat of a math guy. Unfortunately it looks like it will be best used to count the money I'll have to fork over to you guys.

Jeez.. these Swedish saw puzzle's are harder than a Chinese jigsaw puzzle


Idiotwithasaw starring in our afternoon matinee movie. I hope you all enjoy our classic feature:
Planet of the Tennessee Apes



Idiotwithasaw, you reeled in some big fish.

Happy holidays
 
Well gents, I pulled my XPW top end and did some grinding. Will post pics when I get the pics uploaded in my laptop. I think it came out really well :D
 
Well, my stupid computer seems to have lost the pics I attempted to transfer from my phone.. They uploaded but I can't find them anywhere!! :mad::mad::mad::mad:



I opened up the lower transfers, beveled the transfer partitions, and trimmed down the cylinder skirts adjacent to the transfers evenly. Deleted the base gasket too of course. I added a second exhaust port last week.

I did not trim the intake side of the piston skirt at this time.

Mastermind, you weren't kidding about there being alot of grinding on that XPW cylinder!

Squish is .025" and it blows 180psi compression cold. (My 357 is blowing 190psi since the base gasket delete)

I did run it in some ash, about 12". It does feel like it has improved and has more of an attitude! :D
 
I don't know what I did wrong. I seem to have lost a lot if torque. I put it into some 12 inch shag bark hickory that has been down for nine or so months. It revs fine and has plenty of speed, but as soon as I lean on it it stops like you put on a brake.
I haven't had a chance to modify the muffler. And I couldn't quite get it to four stroke. I tached it to 13k.

am I not leaning it out enough. Do I need to widen the exhaust and trim the skirt?

By lean on it I mean using the dawgs to reposition. Not full out bearing down on it. Any advice is welcome.
 
If anything it sounds like you might be too lean. No "4-stroking" would have me worried a bit...... I don't see how you could have hurt anything if your cylinder remained as it was in the pics you posted... I did about the same to my cylinder and it runs great.

Double check your carb bolts, make sure you didn't forget to tighten them as it would suck air if loose.

Did you make sure and clean your mating surfaces on the cylinder and crankcase with a rag wetted with carb cleaner or brake cleaner to remove any oily residue?

On a brighter note, I found my pics!!! :D

The first 2 pics show stock transfers on one side and the the other side shows them after I opened them up.

IMG_20160101_142109184.jpgIMG_20160101_142113278.jpgIMG_20160101_144659482.jpg IMG_20160101_142125813.jpg IMG_20160101_142145378_HDR.jpg IMG_20160101_142540946_HDR.jpg IMG_20160101_144640751.jpg IMG_20160101_144651195.jpg
 
I did vac test it. And the surfaces were clean. You got a little more aggressive than I did. I didn't touch the divider. Setting here thinking about it makes me wonder if I put the ring back in it when I did the xtorq carb upgrade. I'll check it tomorrow. I still need a muff mod. You have a pic of yours?
 
Is your muffler still stock? Remember, and engine is really an air pump. You're making mods inside the engine to flow more air, but you're not letting it out if still running a stock muffler. That's a critical piece to any port job.
I am aiming to muff mod it, but I'm not good enough to weld a pipe on. I'm trying to think of a way to mod it with leaving a stock look.

Also thanks guys for the input. I will check everything in the morning. I got in a rush to try it out tonight before dark. I still need to clean out the air horn. I will go over it all and make sure it's right.
 
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