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Yeah that's how it works. Lots of pressing and pulling and need for special tools!!!! My Saw has the brinze gear. Just had a clogged up oil line.

Well sorted out. First time I have ever really delved into an echo. Very nicely made - built to last. The reason they are heavy includes the fact that they are overbuilt in key ares, including the oil pump. It uses a pressed on crank brass worm gear, and then the oil pump is held in place...

My newly acquired cs-680 is not oiling. I see that there is a bronze push pressed onto the crank, but how to I get the big arse washed/cover off the outside of the pump??

Maybe its easiest to think in terms of what features you would like? - Tooless cover removal. - Be able to take the top cover off without having to disconnect the plug wire. - Two piece muffler. - Side chain adjuster. - One fastener to remove air filter. - Inboard clutch. - Oil and fuel caps...

If usable, grab the 115i and swap its top end over. The closed port 115i is a cracking saw that is equal to anything in its class from the time. Runs like a much bigger saw. All of this series of saws are very well made and usable but the 115i is the best. A "weakness" of this saw was that...

The 6000/6800 has the oil tank in the handle unit, the 6400,7300,7900 is an oil tank in case design. They are completely different.

Just be careful with a compression test with a saw that has been sitting in the shed for years. It is likely that the 266 will improve as the rings free up and 130 is certainly runnable. I always spray good old squirt of wd40 down any old saw and turn it over for a minute on the starter to...

120 runs the older style metal handle. The 120 super has the same very high quality mahle cylinder as the 120si and if you have a good one I would keep it and use it in one of those with the tillotson "injector" HS carb, in a plastic handle saw. Just re ring the 120.

What happened - was it set on fire??

As has been said, the cost of getting this saw done by someone means this route does not make sense. However doing the work yourself will be both more satisfying in the long term and will likely allow you to have a workable saw quite cheaply. As someone who likes turning boxes of bits into...

Another point is that it is always worth using a plastic primer. I find that I get better adhesion to plastic with a primer than I do to magnesium. 2 pac clear over the top and it is very strong and fuel and scratch resistant.

Thats the way to do it. Another thing that is important is to essentially bake the paint on to ensure that it is dry - I sit the covers in the car for a day in Australia which does the trick.

Finished and running like a champ - a nice saw to have in the collection.

just did these husky ones the same way -came out well

This saw is made from a bunch of parts that most people would have deemed unsavable. To this end I decided to paint the covers as this will be a shelf saw as a significant Husky model. I need to add the white stripes and some decals to it. Handle, and covers have all been painted. I will...

Yeah I have a 262 and a 254xp as well.

Will have this one back and running tomorrow - 162se. Also did a 365 and a 372.

Would agree it looks like a 52.

mmm My 100S is clearly marked 93 with a gap and then the serial number - sure its not 92 as the first two digits?

The Shindaiwa system is excellent for Australian conditions, but I agree the comments about making them unwieldy and the filter housing does hang up on things. All the shindawas are underrated saws which are extremely well made and the filtering systems are an extension of that quality - maybe...