cannot start Stihl MS250 for the life of me!

[Tyler Davis]

I used a Stihl Farm Boss many years ago - always started by the 3rd or 4th pull. Bought a new Stihl MS 250 with Easy2Start (not for me) system . I have used it twice and both times took me almost 1/2 an hour to get it started. Now I flat out cannot get it to start. Took it back to the dealer, who opened it up, declared the engine was flooded, dried it out. I picked it up today, and the guy showed me again how to start it. Made it look easy. I got it home, tried to start it myself, absolutely nothing. Will not start to turn over (purring sound).

Here is my technique:

set it on the ground, depress trigger, set switch to Cold Start (last one on the bottom). Pick it up, holding the front handle with my left hand (not holding the chain brake at all).

Pull it hard 3 times in quick succession. Nothing, no sign of it beginning to start. Set the switch to Warm Start, pull it 5 times, nothing. Set it to Run, pull it. Nothing.

Opened up the case, removed spark plug, checked gap (fine), turned saw upside down. Nothing comes out; it's dry. Put it back together. Set switch to Cold Start, pull it 5 times. Nothing.

What am I doing wrong?

 

[wigglesworth]

On a cold saw.

1:Set to full choke (switch all the way down)
2:Keep pulling until the saw pops or tries to start
3ush the switch up 1 notch to fast idle
4:Saw should start and idle fast
5:Tap throttle and let saw Idle


It sounds to me like you are flooding it. Hope that helps. Did you get the owners manual? You should read it. It probably describes the same process I described.

 

[Tyler Davis]

I have the owner's manual and it describes it the same way you did, as well as the tech at the dealer. The problem is with step #2. Keep pulling until it tries to start. Last time I pulled it 20x and it never tried to start.

The saw is "cold" meaning the engine has not been running, but it is 100 F here today, so it is not like trying to start it in winter.

 

[wigglesworth]

I have the owner's manual and it describes it the same way you did, as well as the tech at the dealer. The problem is with step #2. Keep pulling until it tries to start. Last time I pulled it 20x and it never tried to start.

The saw is "cold" meaning the engine has not been running, but it is 100 F here today, so it is not like trying to start it in winter.

If it is in tune, and the dealer started it fairly simple, the only thing left in the equation is you. As soon as it makes that first "pop" take the choke off. If it "pops" and you pull it again with the choke still on, it will probably flood it and you will pull your arm out of socket. If it does flood (i.e. not start) Try holding the throttle wide open while pulling the starter rope. It may take several pulls, but it should clear out.

 

[Tyler Davis]

oh, I fully admit I am the problem, I just cannot figure out what I am doing differently than you described.

How can I confirm that the saw is flooded, rather than assuming? When I duped it upside down w/ the plug out, shouldn't gas have trickled out?

If I do need to un-flood it, I will try your technique of pulling the starter with the throttle (trigger) all the way open . Which switch position should I do this in? Run?

 

[derwoodii]

cannot start Stihl MS250 for the life of me

Got one as well have no probs the Easy start maybe your trouble. Perhaps try not to yank it like a 066. Easy starts just a wind up device. I just gentle pull twice on choke when cold it will burp and then switch to 1/2 throttle 1-2 tugs and go. It did take me a while to get use to it now very happy I have 3 others 210 023 025. Hope you get it sorted best luck

An observation is that with Easy start my 11 year old or 86 year granny could but should not get a saw going. I see a trap in the
domestic market that unfit or ill equipped can now purchase start and wrong use chain saws. This debate will be settled when the injury stats come in a few years.

 

[Tyler Davis]

thanks, I will try to pull it easier. I feel like I am using the minimum force to pull the cord to full extension. If I pull any lighter, it the cord gets stuck partway through the pull.

How do I confirm that it is currently flooded? When I pull the plug out, there is a thin meniscus of gas in the gap, but nothing comes out when I tip it over.

And what switch setting do I use to un-flood it under full throttle?

 

[wigglesworth]

Your plug will be soaking wet if flooded. Pull the plug out, and pull the rope several times, you will probably, but not always, see a fine mist come out. And yes, when holding the throttle trying to start a flooded engine, put the switch to run.

 

[Bill.A.Bong]

Try just a single pull on full choke before switching to fast idle. If you keep flooding then maybe you aren't hearing the pop....

 

[xtm]

Tyler,

Is your fuel mix absolutely fresh? JMO, but I believe that gasoline with all of the anti-smog additives begins to break down very quickly and should be used up ASAP - particularly 2-stroke fuel mixes. I've noticed that fuel that is more than 2 weeks or so old seems to not run as well in my 2-stroke equipment - and it usually shows up first as balky starting. Now, I won't run anything but fresh fuel in my saws. I try to buy all my fuel in the county west of here where my office is located - because it doesn't have all of the smog additives that the stuff near my house has - and gives me better gas mileage, too.

I hear you about "cold" starting in 100 deg. weather! My saws seem to run better in cold or cool weather. I don't know exactly why, but neither of them seem to like being run at 100 deg. They often idle roughly at those temps and are always harder to "warm" start - never seem to have those afflictions in cold weather. Vapor lock??

xtm

 

[Tyler Davis]

well, I was finally able to start it. After pulling the plug, then 10- pulls on Run to clear the cylinder.

I set it to Full Choke and pull twice as lightly as I could. Even though it didn't pop, I set it to Run and pulled twice more. That's when I heard the pop. So I switched back to Full Choke , 1 pull no pop. Then Half Choke, and it popped on the first pull and flipped it to Run and let it idle. It died twice before I was able to get a full rev.

I will practice this routine until I can do it consistently. It seems very finicky, a lot worse than the old un-assisted start saws.

I think the Stihl's Better Mousetrap just snapped my neck.... LOL

 

[wigglesworth]

well, I was finally able to start it. After pulling the plug, then 10- pulls on Run to clear the cylinder.

I set it to Full Choke and pull twice as lightly as I could. Even though it didn't pop, I set it to Run and pulled twice more. That's when I heard the pop. So I switched back to Full Choke , 1 pull no pop. Then Half Choke, and it popped on the first pull and flipped it to Run and let it idle. It died twice before I was able to get a full rev.

I will practice this routine until I can do it consistently. It seems very finicky, a lot worse than the old un-assisted start saws.

I think the Stihl's Better Mousetrap just snapped my neck.... LOL

Good deal. Just listen for the pop. It sounds like you still flooded it a bit. Pull it on full choke until the pop. Dont touch the switch until you hear the pop. I bet if you had pulled a third time with the choke on it would had pop'd.

 

[capetrees]

Something else that I have found works if its possible flooded, put the switch to half way, hold the trigger full in like you're running it at full rpm with your left hand and pull to start with the right hand. This uses the fuel in the cylinder as if the machine is going to run. Works like a charm.

 

[PonderousPiner]

You're talking about pulling hard or soft, which just doesn't sound right to me for using Easy2Start. With E2S, you're not pulling the cord to spin the crank, all you're doing is winding a racheting spring. Don't yank. Just wind the cord out with a smooth slow pull. Heck, only pull 6 inches at a time if you want. Again, all you're doing is winding that spring. When it's wound, it cranks itself. Slow pulls can help you hear the 'pop' on full choke, too!

My suggestion is that after the 5th 'crank' at full choke with no pop (which may or may not be the 5th pull you did), move the choke to half/warm start for further pulls/cranks anyway. I bet it'll start fine that way.

PPine

 

[n9emz]

I initially had the same problem with my MS250. Two pulls on full choke, switch to half choke, and fires right up.

Note that mine does not "hit" or "pop" on full choke....period. First saw I've owned that doesn't, and that's what threw me off in the beginning.

 

[angelo c]

well, I was finally able to start it. After pulling the plug, then 10- pulls on Run to clear the cylinder.

I set it to Full Choke and pull twice as lightly as I could. Even though it didn't pop, I set it to Run and pulled twice more. That's when I heard the pop. So I switched back to Full Choke , 1 pull no pop. Then Half Choke, and it popped on the first pull and flipped it to Run and let it idle. It died twice before I was able to get a full rev.

I will practice this routine until I can do it consistently. It seems very finicky, a lot worse than the old un-assisted start saws.

I think the Stihl's Better Mousetrap just snapped my neck.... LOL

Tyler,
Stick with the 2 stroke starting pattern Wigglesworth qouted above. And don't bounce around back and forth from step to step.

1:Set to full choke (switch all the way down)
2:Keep pulling until the saw pops or tries to start
3ush the switch up 1 notch to fast idle
4:Saw should start and idle fast
5:Tap throttle and let saw Idle

the key is to keep pulling until it(step 2) burps or the slightest sound change in the starting sound. THEN TAKE it off choke. if you go back and forth from choke to fast idle your messing it up. This process works for ANY 2 stroke. It will save you much grief and will endear you to OPE much sooner.
Angelo

 

[husky362]

eazy 2 start = slow gental pull

a lazy gentle pull works on the eazy 2 start you cant jerk them like the others


I've found on the newer stihl's most people don't hear the pop keep pulling and flood them try two slow pulls with choke then switch to fast idle

 

[Tyler Davis]

update: still can't start it

here is a video of my attempt to start it.

http://www.wikiupload.com/download_page.php?id=154768

I am trying to follow the advice given in this thread.

before the start of the video, I had removed the spark plug and left it in my hot garage to dry for several hours. So it is not starting in a flooded condition.

I start with the switch in full-choke position. Pull the cord as lightly as I can. You can see the cord "catches" every 6 inches until I pull harder. This does not happen when I "drop and yank", which is what I am accustomed to doing. Also when I reach full extension of the cord, it "clicks". I don't know if this is the Easy2Start clutch or what.

I pull 4 or 5 times in full choke. Nothing, as you can hear. Then I try switching to partial choke, and pull, and pull. Nothing. Then "run" nothing. Then "yank and drop". Nothing.

Is this how you are supposed to start an Easy2Start saw?

 

[PonderousPiner]

Can't see your video

Just goes to a signup page.

PPine

 

[peter399]

make sure there are no 346 s around and that 250 will probably start....