Discussion in 'Chainsaw' started by TroopNJ, Sep 9, 2018.
Thanks to everyone who replied. I wasn’t sharp enough to realize what a smaller rim meant.
Kind of like gearing up/down on a dirt bike/MC........
From my experience...
84 DL for a 24" bar (Still calls it a 25") and 7 pin rim
85DL fir 24" bar and 8 pin rim.
85DL likely would work on a 7pin as well, I've never gotten past maybe 1/2 way out on the adjuster screw
I run 24" on most of my saws, to include 2 460s.
Same here for me with the exact combination the OP has.
It takes 5 seconds to take a Rim drive off & 5 seconds to put the rim drive back on.
Figure out what you’d rather deal with: 84dl is more common, but obviously 85dl exist also.
I would pull the rim and put it on as one unit. I’m guessing after a few hours of use it will be stretched enough to squeeze it on and off.
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If you grab the tip with a glove on and force it to turn it should walk the rest of the way on. Run it for a tank and it’ll be stretched enough to fit easy the next time.
How can you say the chain is defective 84 DL's is 84 Dl's if the supplier swaps your chaln for a 84 link chain you will still be at square one some time back Oregon marketed a bar (Lo Pro) requiring a 55 DL chain according to the bar stamping but the least #of DL's chain that would fit was 56DL's put an extra link in & go use it like you stole it
After all the smoke and dust settles, when making new bars up to fit older saws its common to place the heel of the bar up against a common bench grinder and remove up to 1/4" if necessary to make it fit an special application. Have also done this on a few instances just like the OP`s and it gives one the option of running a chain with two different drive link lengths, both the 84 and the 85 will now work on the same bar.
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