2 o those here. interested in hearin how stihl rings work out. givin me incentive to get into mine. van. bc?
Pioneer chainsaws
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Gas caps are as rare as hen's teeth and leaving any gas in the tank will cause it to swell. I've taken a three cornered or Swiss file to the threads of mine a couple of times.
The fuel cap is 475167. Adding 507 makes it a Poulan Weed Eater pn. 507475167 was replaced by 530047186 and NLA for both. Carefully remove yours and treat it like gold. I saw $35 on E-bay.
Chainsaw tension screw on my Farmsaw is 429638. 507429638 at OrderTree returns replaced by 507432613 $1.83. It's not uncommon for many parts to be no longer available once you try to order.
Here is a solution I came up with for the larger P-series caps leaking through the vent mechanism. Nothing fancy.
The guts of those caps are usually way past due. I simply stripped the inside and used a small finishing nail pushed through the vent hole in the cap as a "post" to set a short length of pen tube I had snipped off. I then swirled around some Seal-all, filling in the cavity around the pen. After it dried, I fit a Poulan duckbill on the vent tube and removed the nail.
Works like it should now.
The guts of those caps are usually way past due. I simply stripped the inside and used a small finishing nail pushed through the vent hole in the cap as a "post" to set a short length of pen tube I had snipped off. I then swirled around some Seal-all, filling in the cavity around the pen. After it dried, I fit a Poulan duckbill on the vent tube and removed the nail.
Works like it should now.
Thats a great idea, using the ink pen tube. I have modified several other type caps over the years but that looks like a great way to do it.
I already use the round Bic stick pen barrels for pressing the duckbill star retainers into the Poulan fuel caps, so now I have a use for the rest of the pen.
I'm assuming that the type of plastic used in the inner tube will hold up to gasoline since its already used for ink, but let us know if it don't hold up.
As for the Seal All, I have had mixed results with it, sometimes good, sometimes not so good. Not sure what thats about...
Yes, mixed results with the Seal-All. I find it is quite brittle when dry. As long as the mating surfaces are kept rigid, I find it will hold up fairly well. Nonetheless, it is easy to add/remove more if needed unlike plastic epoxies I've tried.
I might add a layer of Motoseal for extra measure. Flexible and fairly resilient.
I might add a layer of Motoseal for extra measure. Flexible and fairly resilient.
ML12
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Just finished putting together my HC, it still needs bucking spikes, I haven't run it yet.
Great job on those saws. That takes a lot of time and effort but it is worth it when their done line that.
Here's my first chainsaw restore project in action. First cut that this saw has made in a long time.
Does anyone have a source on Pioneer RA crank seals? We are not able to get it to respond to tuning and think they may be leaking.
Good news is that dad, pictured in the video has found another RA in better condition that I'm planning on fixing up as well.
Does anyone have a source on Pioneer RA crank seals? We are not able to get it to respond to tuning and think they may be leaking.
Good news is that dad, pictured in the video has found another RA in better condition that I'm planning on fixing up as well.
The seals are common sizes. Easy to measure up once you get them pulled--same as all the rest of the 600s. However, to pull the flywheel seal you need to remove the case half--the seal sits behind a lip. As long as you have a harmonic balance puller and a couple long bolts, it's not a hard job. Don't need to pull the cylinder.
Chris B.
Chris B.
What really shocked me when I rebuilt my RA is the shielded crankshaft bearings.
I put it together with two new open bearings. Not that it will make much difference as 'Fat Alice' is a GTG toy.
I put it together with two new open bearings. Not that it will make much difference as 'Fat Alice' is a GTG toy.
The seals for the RA and the 600 series saws are easily gotten through the bearing and seal distributorships like Motion Industries. The sizes are 17 X 32 X 7 mm and 17 X 40 X 7 mm, Chicago Rawhide numbers 6630 and 6661 respectively.
If I may ask, why metric seals? I know I used standard sizes, though I 'm sure your sizes work just fine.
Chris B.
Seals are measured in metric in Canada.
Here's another 750 project. Doubt it'll need much other than seals, O-rings, carb parts. It has great compression and spark. Top cover is a bit damaged from an old strike, but no great matter. I think this makes #3 750 on my shelves.
Chris B.
Chris B.
We changed over to metric here in the 70`s, wasn`t my idea and I never really liked it as I was taught Imperial measure all through school. The government forced it upon us and it was quite a hardship for all tradesmen to convert to plus we all had to buy new metric tools, made for some big heavy tool boxes.
Jerry I find myself torn here. I have to maintain 2 sets of sockets and wrenches...
I think the US of A made a mistake when we didn't convert too.
Lou
I think the US of A made a mistake when we didn't convert too.
Lou
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