Sears 917.353750 Chainsaw Help!

Arborist Forum

Help Support Arborist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
If any of you are looking for a spare/parts saw for your Roper Collection I have a clean running 3.7 that I am willing to part with. I found that a Homelite bar fits the saw rather well and oils the bar good also some newer bars for craftsman will work but I think a 20" bar balances the saw out better than the 17". Am willing to let this go fairly cheap if interested, I don't have a lot of money tied up in it.
View attachment 238402View attachment 238403
 
That's great! Everything else should be working on my 3.7. Waiting for epoxy to dry on bottom seam. (leaking gas). Is there a way to explain the size and location of the hole that I need to drill out on the bar for the oiler to work?

The oil port dumps into a slot on the bar mouting pad. With the bar/chain hung on the saw and tensioned some, mark the bar at the middle of the oiler slot. Drill a small hole (3/16" suggested) thru one rail at the bottom of the bar groove so the slot can feed oil into the groove. Guide bars are hard, you will need a drill press and lots of cutting oil.


Note:
The valve inside the carb. box is a shut off for the oiler. That is so it won't 'after oil' and make a puddle on the floor or waste oil while ideling. A link connected to the throttle opens up the valve so the manual and automatic oiler can deliver oil to the bar/chain. Remingtons and Lombards also have a shutoff valve.
 
Last edited:
Thanks, DJ. How much are you looking for for the saw.

If any of you are looking for a spare/parts saw for your Roper Collection I have a clean running 3.7 that I am willing to part with. I found that a Homelite bar fits the saw rather well and oils the bar good also some newer bars for craftsman will work but I think a 20" bar balances the saw out better than the 17". Am willing to let this go fairly cheap if interested, I don't have a lot of money tied up in it.
View attachment 238402View attachment 238403

Thanks for the info. I could use the parts and I like the saw maybe as a back-up. It would have to be shipped to ZIP 11772 which is Patchogue Long Island NY. UPS ground cheapest would be fine.
Larry
 
Thanks. Will look at saw to see if I understand your instruction.

The oil port dumps into a slot on the bar mouting pad. With the bar/chain hung on the saw and tensioned some, mark the bar at the middle of the oiler slot. Drill a small hole (3/16" suggested) thru one rail at the bottom of the bar groove so the slot can feed oil into the groove. Guide bars are hard, you will need a drill press and lots of cutting oil.


Note:
The valve inside the carb. box is a shut off for the oiler. That is so it won't 'after oil' and make a puddle on the floor or waste oil while ideling. A link connected to the throttle opens up the valve so the manual and automatic oiler can deliver oil to the bar/chain. Remingtons and Lombards also have a shutoff valve.

Thanks. Will respond after I look at saw.
Larry
 
Can't figure out hole location. Have you got a pic?

The oil port dumps into a slot on the bar mouting pad. With the bar/chain hung on the saw and tensioned some, mark the bar at the middle of the oiler slot. Drill a small hole (3/16" suggested) thru one rail at the bottom of the bar groove so the slot can feed oil into the groove. Guide bars are hard, you will need a drill press and lots of cutting oil.


Note:
The valve inside the carb. box is a shut off for the oiler. That is so it won't 'after oil' and make a puddle on the floor or waste oil while ideling. A link connected to the throttle opens up the valve so the manual and automatic oiler can deliver oil to the bar/chain. Remingtons and Lombards also have a shutoff valve.

Any pictures?
Larry
 
Thanks for the info. I could use the parts and I like the saw maybe as a back-up. It would have to be shipped to ZIP 11772 which is Patchogue Long Island NY. UPS ground cheapest would be fine.
Larry

larry, $20 plus shipping would clear my expenses in this saw including the bar and chain if you want them. shipping won't be too bad since we're almost neighbors.
 
Ok dj

larry, $20 plus shipping would clear my expenses in this saw including the bar and chain if you want them. shipping won't be too bad since we're almost neighbors.

I would like to make the transaction. Do you have a paypal account? Can you get the shipping charges nailed down?
Larry
 
Dj- Forget getting a shipping cost. Just tell me if it leaks gas and how to pay

I would like to make the transaction. Do you have a paypal account? Can you get the shipping charges nailed down?
Larry
Dj,
Most of these old sears jobs leak gas from the bottom seam. So far I have fixed one Sears sporster circa late 70's using Locktite weld and ready to test the Sears Roper 3.7 after Locktite. Sporster now works mint (for how long, not sure). JB weld just dissolved from gas in no time. Tell me how you want to get paid and let's get on with it.

Larry
 
Dj,
Most of these old sears jobs leak gas from the bottom seam. So far I have fixed one Sears sporster circa late 70's using Locktite weld and ready to test the Sears Roper 3.7 after Locktite. Sporster now works mint (for how long, not sure). JB weld just dissolved from gas in no time. Tell me how you want to get paid and let's get on with it.

Larry

The seam did leak, I tore the whole saw down and uesd POR sealant on the tank. It hardens like cement. When dried this stuff is impervious to gas, so they claim. Yes I take paypal, I'll pm you the address when you are ready. Let me check the weight in the morning and I'll get you the postage costs.
 
Ok dj. I am ready

The seam did leak, I tore the whole saw down and uesd POR sealant on the tank. It hardens like cement. When dried this stuff is impervious to gas, so they claim. Yes I take paypal, I'll pm you the address when you are ready. Let me check the weight in the morning and I'll get you the postage costs.

Let me know about postage and I will send you the $. Thanks for the info about the sealant in case the stuff I used doesn't work. Where did you get the POR and is that the entire name?
Larry
 
Let me know about postage and I will send you the $. Thanks for the info about the sealant in case the stuff I used doesn't work. Where did you get the POR and is that the entire name?
Larry

I found the sealant online but ordered it through ebay. The company name is POR (paint over rust) and it makes different products and I thought I'd give this one a try to solve the dissolving problem that gas does to everything else we use.
 
Yamabond?

Have you considered this stuff? It was what was recommended to my for sealing case halfs on my Roper. I've used it several times with complete success. I got mine at a motorcycle shop, it goes by various names depending on the shop so to speak. Hondabond, yamabond, etc.

DSCN8098.jpg


DSCN8097.jpg


As far as POR goes, I've used that to treat frame rails on my Jeeps, prevent rust in truck beds and vehicle footwells, then bedlined over it with stuff like raptor liner, rhino liner, herculiner etc. I have not known it to be used for sealing tanks or leaks though, this isn't really its design purpose. It is a rust converter so to speak.
 
dj, I thought I sent you a PM but can't find it in my sent items. Did you get it?

I found the sealant online but ordered it through ebay. The company name is POR (paint over rust) and it makes different products and I thought I'd give this one a try to solve the dissolving problem that gas does to everything else we use.

Let me know
 
I'm new to the site and would just like to say that I took one of these saws and mounted on my bike. I'm still in the process of building it. New to chainsaws and engineering in general but if u guys aren't to upset with what I have done to a great saw I will post pics
 
I think that would be interesting so see, wouldn't mind seeing some photos of that setup.

For EZRYDER--In regards to oiling issues with this saw, I am working thru this on one of mine, as well as another one I built for my son in Tacoma. Most of my useful stuff on the 3.7 rebuild is in THIS THREAD
so go to the last page there. Honestly I have stalled on this as other issues have taken the lead and I have a pile of other saws to go thru to use at present while the Ropers are benched. The last page or so of the linked thread will show how to tear down the pump to replace the duck bill valve. Issue is to find one, and there are suggestions there as well--I just haven't acted on them at all yet. I am intrigued by the in-line anti reflux valves that are used in aquarium aeration lines to prevent syphoning if the pump shuts off. I even have some downstairs but just haven't seriously messed with them.

In response to bar questions and bar drilling, etc w photos, see if this is helpful from the previously linked thread.

Alrighty then, I put the D176 mount style bar on the Roper that requires the D082 style bar. Of course it fits fine. I put one of my brand squeaky new (20BPX074G) 74 link chains on it, and it is fine for length, even has planny adjustment room if it stretches to keep properly snug. Then I took that same combination and put it on the other Roper (917.353770) and it fits fine. Supposedly the D082 saw needs the 74 link, and the XXX770 saw with the D176 mount and that bar is supposed to take a 72 link chain. I don't see that need. Both saws fit that bar fine, the chain is fine on both saws. I don't get why Oregon tells me otherwise. So I am still game for a 180PXBD082 bar just since it is "original," but also in the market for a 180SKBD176 bar which although I have been told is still available, I cannot find it and Oregon tells me they don't have it.

So, being the typical black hole of need you have all become accustomed to seeing me as, I am in the market for either bar, and if someone does know where to get that 180SKBD176 bar, I'll buy one new and get it sent out here from somewhere.

I did find a gentleman in the MA area with one, and see if I can work out a way to secure that item; we are communicating by email at this point and he likely recognizes me for a lunatic. I suppose, he's not too far off with that impression.

On a more celebratory note, I did get a nice package in the mail today from 67L36driver, a starter sprocket!!!!! I will work on that this weekend and let you all know how it comes out, with pictures as well. There is a subtle difference, the "new" one has three prongs for the starter pawls to hook into, while my orig has 4. Honestly I do not think this matters at all, as that saw was used for a long time with only one starter pawl instead of 2 with out a problem, unless it was one perhaps of balance. More to come later.

Here is what the 917.353750 looks like, (the one I am working on in this thread) followed by its D082 style mount, followed by a modified bar to fit it. You can see the oil holes were drilled and the end clipped off. You can also see the oil hole in the channel so I think this was actually a modified D176 bar made to work on this saw.

DSCN7978.jpg

DSCN8083-1.jpg

DSCN8189.jpg

DSCN8205.jpg


Now here is the 917.353770 saw, followed by its D176 style mount, followed by the proper bar for it. You can see the oil hole in the channel.

DSCN8039.jpg

DSCN8038.jpg

DSCN8203.jpg

DSCN8206.jpg


The difference? Note where the oil holes are. The first saw D082 oils into the thru hole in the bar, which is closer to the mount studs, while on the D176 mount, the oil hole is further away from the studs, and seeps into the weep hole drilled into the channel.

What is it that I do now on my Ropers for bar/chain? I took a drive sprocket off a Husqvarna 55 which fits the Roper splines and handles 3/8 chain. Now I am using an Oregon 200PXDD176 with matching chain, and the D176 bar has the holes in the correct place, it uses 3/8 chain, and the Roper 3.7 to me seems to have far greater balance with that 20" bar. It has no power issues pulling that length bar. Somewhere, I have the chain number for this setup........looking thru my hoarder's garage arrangement. Much later.......Chain with this bar and the Husqvarna drive sprocket is 72LGX07OG (3/8 pitch 0.050 Gauge, 70 Drive Links)

Good luck. Fight your way thru the build thread I linked, there are many photos and discussions with forum experts contributing their knowledge and experience. Bottom line is I'd dump that 18" bar w D082 mount, and go with the 20" D176 and matching chain.
 
Would u by chance have the 2 clutch discs from a 3.7? I managed to destroy the 2 originals upon removal of the clutch. I welded a bicycle sprocket onto the backside of it.
 
No, don't have clutch parts, however they are very common on ebay, and other similar places, also check HERE you can find a lot of parts at Chainsawr.
 
after rebuilding my 917.353750 it isnt pumping gas on its own. i installed a primer button and if i depress it i see fluid being pumped but when i pull to start the gas goes back into the tank leaving the line without fuel
 
Back
Top