Sears 917.353750 Chainsaw Help!

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Thank you for updates. I don't use engine oil, or synthetic. Just plain dinosaur 2-stroke oil, and likely I run it too rich on oil. Maybe I should learn from the experts. Thank you!
 
Hey Guys-

My father has a neighbors who said that he was throwing out this old chainsaw and asked if he wanted it. Dad, being the mechanic that he is, jumped on it. He cleaned it out, put in a new spark plug. Runs great. It is a Sears (Roper) 917.353750. Is it the solid state setup; which by the forums on here is a late 70's chainsaw and a good one too. Here is our question:

There is something on there called a control. It's on the top near the handle that you can turn that has a (+) sign and a (-) on it. Does this control the idle or what exactly does it do?

Next question is in regards to the plunger near the handle. We are testing it to see if it works. Pa said that he filled the reservoir with bar oil and use it but it doesn't pump out where the adjuster for the chain is. When I looked at it, I stuck my finger on the bottom of the plunger to see if there was any vacuum and there was a little but not a lot. The plunger was sticking at first but pa cleaned it up. Pa is asking how the chain gets oiled? Is it from this plunger or something else?

It is a great runner and we were curious what the value of this chainsaw might be as well.

Thanks.

Lucas:help:
 
I have this exact saw. The perfect replacement bar and chain combo is the 20 inch
Oregon 20" Pro-AM Chainsaw Bar and Chain Combo 200GDBK041/20BPX078
- See more at: http://www.baileysonline.com/Chains...-200GDBK041-20BPX078.axd#sthash.FxlqruXL.dpuf , of course you can use the smaller 18 inch
Oregon 18" Pro-Lite Guard Mate Chainsaw Bar (72 Drive Links) 180GLGK216
- See more at: http://www.baileysonline.com/Chains...rtFinderType=BarSelector#sthash.LaZoyOMm.dpuf. I use the 20 inch and it fits and works perfect.
 
Well after all the other things I have done to get my craftsman/roper 917.353750 motor going I now find out the ignition coil is toast. I have had no luck finding a replacement.
 
Well after all the other things I have done to get my craftsman/roper 917.353750 motor going I now find out the ignition coil is toast. I have had no luck finding a replacement.

Points coil or electronic?

Solid state/electronic you are SOL.

Points coil either Wico or Phelon is common to a host of other saws. Such as Homelite XL-12, Super XL, Pioneer 1110 & 1200, Remington SL/PL types
 
Post a pic of the coil. I parted one of these a while back. I may still have the coil in a box of parts. I just want to make sure they look the same.
 
Is this the one you need?

IMG_20151015_212301793_HDR_1.jpg
IMG_20151015_212240255.jpg
IMG_20151015_212301793_HDR_1.jpg
 
Reed valve gap. Make sure you don't have crud under the reeds, and that they aren't gapped open.

When u say gapped open does that mean even the slightest gap is to much? If so how do I fix a slightly gapped reed. 1 of the 4 has a small gap. I will post a pic shortly
 
You can unscrew, clean, flex it down a bit, re-assemble, and see how it looks. Adjust as needed. On final assembly threadlocker blue on the reed screws. Where the bend/flexing it down part needs to be is right where the reed comes out from under the clamp, or of course if there is a sudden deviation or bend, then repair at that bend.

Edit--I just noticed where you live (Dumas, Texas) I've driven thru there between Denver and San Antonio via Raton Pass more than just a few times. Is there still a sign as you come into town that says "Welcome to Dumas Texas, home of 15,000 Friendly folk and a few old soreheads" ? Always loved to see that sign, it still makes me chuckle.
 
You can unscrew, clean, flex it down a bit, re-assemble, and see how it looks. Adjust as needed. On final assembly threadlocker blue on the reed screws. Where the bend/flexing it down part needs to be is right where the reed comes out from under the clamp, or of course if there is a sudden deviation or bend, then repair at that bend.

Edit--I just noticed where you live (Dumas, Texas) I've driven thru there between Denver and San Antonio via Raton Pass more than just a few times. Is there still a sign as you come into town that says "Welcome to Dumas Texas, home of 15,000 Friendly folk and a few old soreheads" ? Always loved to see that sign, it still makes me chuckle.
I was born in Dumas but live in ft worth now. Not sure why it list Dumas as my current home... Either way thank you for the advice. Getting my hands dirty as we speak!
 
FYI, I happen to have a spare Tillotson HS79A-45 carb with separately adjustable H/L and idle, a carb kit and an ignition coil for a Craftsman Roper 3.7/18. PM me if you are interested.
how to pm? i just joined and may be interested in that coil if it fits my 3.7/17
 
I just found oregon bar 180pxbd082 for my craftsman roper 917.353760 from 1972...
Its .325 pitch,50 gauge ,I think 74 link..

I hope it works ....
Original bar has chunk out of bottom of bar ...
Some say .325 ko41 bar will work not sure but I read on here that 082 that is not made will work?
 

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