Ductape
Addicted to ArboristSite
Got a few small knicks on it..... getting time for a sharpening. I'm concerned about removing any more of the teflon than I have to. I do not own the Fiskars axe sharpener. Anyone got any helpful hints / techniques ? 
Sharpening My Fiskars Axe ......... Tips ?
- Thread starter Ductape
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Dalmatian90
Addicted to ArboristSite
I use a file (the flat file for taking down rakers should do fine), then wet stone.
The stone probably isn't necessary since we're splitting wood, not cutting paper. But makes for a relaxing time watching TV
You're just sharpening the edge, so you shouldn't have to worry about the non-stick coating.
As I'm notorious for not putting my toys away all the time, I've also taken some steel wool to remove surface rust then use this:
Tractor Supply - Mo-Deck Non-Stick Polymer Coating for Mowers, 11 oz. customer reviews - product reviews - read top consumer ratings
to help restore the slipperiness. I'm not really convinced it's needed, but it definitely feels slicker to the touch when I do
The stone probably isn't necessary since we're splitting wood, not cutting paper. But makes for a relaxing time watching TV
You're just sharpening the edge, so you shouldn't have to worry about the non-stick coating.
As I'm notorious for not putting my toys away all the time, I've also taken some steel wool to remove surface rust then use this:
Tractor Supply - Mo-Deck Non-Stick Polymer Coating for Mowers, 11 oz. customer reviews - product reviews - read top consumer ratings
to help restore the slipperiness. I'm not really convinced it's needed, but it definitely feels slicker to the touch when I do
ponyexpress976
nipple fritters
The flat file works well as does the el-cheapo sharpener from hardware store brand x. Some oil and sawdust in a large coffee can does wonders to keep a rusty edge from occurring.
mountainmandan
ArboristSite Operative
I use a belt sander. I split so much wood with it the teflon was gone over a year ago. Just be careful not to overheat the edge.
Dan
Dan
I bought the Fiskars sharpener, and I am not terribly impressed. The wheels seem fine, but the plastic they are mounted in are more suited to sharpening an xacto knife than a splitting ax. I have to kind of hold the plastic together when stroking the x27. I've found a good whet stone works much better. And, as mentioned, is kind of a relaxing little mind distractor for a while.
Good luck.
Good luck.
Iron Head
ArboristSite Operative
Don't waste your money with the Fiskars sharpener.
It's a piece of crap.
Just use a large sharpening stone. A two grade water stone works great.
It's a piece of crap.
Just use a large sharpening stone. A two grade water stone works great.
I just tuched up mine today.I have a half wornout file it wouldnt tuch it. I have one of those Smith diamond flat knife sharpeners,man that really worked nice.
woodbooga
cords of mystic memory
I bought mine at the Alton Aubuchon - which doesnt carry the sharpener, grr.
The Tractor Soppy in Ossippe does where I bought mine. Pop by the one in Chichester and ask for a transfer if not in stock.
Regardless, a dull Fisk ax is pretty good compared to a 6lb maul imo.
The Tractor Soppy in Ossippe does where I bought mine. Pop by the one in Chichester and ask for a transfer if not in stock.
Regardless, a dull Fisk ax is pretty good compared to a 6lb maul imo.
Okay, ill buck the trend. I got the fiskars sharpener and i think it works great for touch ups. Maintains factory angle with little material removal. Big nicks probably need something different. It does leave an edge that will cut paper just like your favorite knife does. Looks cheesy for sure but really effective.
D&B Mack
Sawin Wit It!
Got a few small knicks on it..... getting time for a sharpening. I'm concerned about removing any more of the teflon than I have to. I do not own the Fiskars axe sharpener. Anyone got any helpful hints / techniques ?
I use a flat file as well. If I can find it, and you want it, I will send you my fiskars sharpener...since I don't use it.
Davej_07
ArboristSite Operative
I bought a cheap pocket knife sharpener at Gander mt. A few years back. A few passes with the carbide and a few on the ceramic makes the edge like new
Dave
Dave
Ductape
Addicted to ArboristSite
Well, I was too lazy to run a file over my axe. I rigged up a saw horse to clamp the axe to, and used my grinder with a flap disc on it to sharpen it. I had to go over the edge in quick passes to keep from overheating the edge, but it worked quite well. I also did a couple hatchets with good results also.
I also like the fiskers sharpener, I also use it on my knives.It wont get them razer sharp ,just a good working edge.
I've been using a course bastard file for however long is needed to restore the edge to a relatively knick-free state. Then I use the pull-through Fiskars plastic sharpener which surprisingly puts a nice edge on it. I was convinced at first that the plastic sharpener couldn't really do much of anything, but it does actually sharpen the edge...it is limited to that though. You need a file (or grinder if you like power tools) to restore the edge from knicks.
I find that I end up just running it through the pull through sharpener every time I pick it up to use it (for the day/splitting session) then running it through again if I bury it in the dirt/driveway or if it's been through a ton of wood...just about like how you'd touch up a chain with a file on your saw.
My 2 cents...maybe someone else has a better way!
I find that I end up just running it through the pull through sharpener every time I pick it up to use it (for the day/splitting session) then running it through again if I bury it in the dirt/driveway or if it's been through a ton of wood...just about like how you'd touch up a chain with a file on your saw.
My 2 cents...maybe someone else has a better way!
the fiskars head is perfect for clamping in the vise (edge up). then I just spin the vise to get the best angle for a small flat file...pay attention or you'll spin that handle right into your rib cage umpkin2:
I also use the fiskars sharpener, but instead of drawing the axe through it, I use two hands to hold it upside down, and draw the sharpener over the axe (while it's in my vise).
cheers!
umpkin2:I also use the fiskars sharpener, but instead of drawing the axe through it, I use two hands to hold it upside down, and draw the sharpener over the axe (while it's in my vise).
cheers!
Billm67
ArboristSite Lurker
I used a 200, 400 and 600 grit diamond hone on the head to sharpen it. I would use a file to take out nicks.
Here is a link to a you tube video made by the forestry service on hanging an axe head, and sharpening an axe. It's better than 95% of what's on tv.
US Forest Service, An Axe to Grind - Complete Documentary - YouTube
Here is a link to a you tube video made by the forestry service on hanging an axe head, and sharpening an axe. It's better than 95% of what's on tv.
US Forest Service, An Axe to Grind - Complete Documentary - YouTube
Butch(OH)
Addicted to ArboristSite
What works best for me depends on how hacked up the edge is. I used to think the Fiskars sharpener was the biggest POS there was until I learned i was using it wrong,I used to lay the axe sharp side up on the bench and was trying to stroke the sharpener over it, DUH!! Once my wife showed me how to use it right, sharpener on bench and stroke the axe over it by its own weight only I like it a lot more. Works OK to keep the edge up but I sure would want to fix one that had hit a rock! When they are "kind of dull" I use an oil stone first and if real bad nicked etc I short cut the process starting with a grinder making quick passes prior to the oil stone and always finish with the Fiskars tool now. I dont think the no stick finish is a worry point, when used enough for the no stick to be wearing the sides should be polishing up and I cant tell one bit if or differance as to sticking, at least in the wood we mess with. Do pay close attention to the angles, that and being sharp are the main thing that will prevent sticking IMO.
showed me how to use it right, sharpener on bench and stroke the axe over it by its own weight only I like it a lot more. Works OK to keep the edge up but I sure would want to fix one that had hit a rock! When they are "kind of dull" I use an oil stone first and if real bad nicked etc I short cut the process starting with a grinder making quick passes prior to the oil stone and always finish with the Fiskars tool now. I dont think the no stick finish is a worry point, when used enough for the no stick to be wearing the sides should be polishing up and I cant tell one bit if or differance as to sticking, at least in the wood we mess with. Do pay close attention to the angles, that and being sharp are the main thing that will prevent sticking IMO.
mokuransu
New Member
To concur with others, the fiskars sharpener is good for edge maintenance and touch ups. For an axe head with significant wear and tear, a good file and whetstone are required. The plastic housing of the fiskars sharpener is not as robust as I would like, but nonetheless with a little patience and practice, it provides a stable enough base to do light sharpening.
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