Sharpening My Fiskars Axe ......... Tips ?

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Ductape

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Got a few small knicks on it..... getting time for a sharpening. I'm concerned about removing any more of the teflon than I have to. I do not own the Fiskars axe sharpener. Anyone got any helpful hints / techniques ? :confused:
 
I use a file (the flat file for taking down rakers should do fine), then wet stone.

The stone probably isn't necessary since we're splitting wood, not cutting paper. But makes for a relaxing time watching TV :)

You're just sharpening the edge, so you shouldn't have to worry about the non-stick coating.

As I'm notorious for not putting my toys away all the time, I've also taken some steel wool to remove surface rust then use this:
Tractor Supply - Mo-Deck Non-Stick Polymer Coating for Mowers, 11 oz. customer reviews - product reviews - read top consumer ratings

to help restore the slipperiness. I'm not really convinced it's needed, but it definitely feels slicker to the touch when I do :)
 
The flat file works well as does the el-cheapo sharpener from hardware store brand x. Some oil and sawdust in a large coffee can does wonders to keep a rusty edge from occurring.
 
I bought the Fiskars sharpener, and I am not terribly impressed. The wheels seem fine, but the plastic they are mounted in are more suited to sharpening an xacto knife than a splitting ax. I have to kind of hold the plastic together when stroking the x27. I've found a good whet stone works much better. And, as mentioned, is kind of a relaxing little mind distractor for a while.

Good luck.
 
Don't waste your money with the Fiskars sharpener.
It's a piece of crap.
Just use a large sharpening stone. A two grade water stone works great.
 
I use a Flat File to get a good course edge..
Then follow up with a set of DMT Diamond Stones to remove the burr and deliver a honed sharp edge..
 
I bought mine at the Alton Aubuchon - which doesnt carry the sharpener, grr.

The Tractor Soppy in Ossippe does where I bought mine. Pop by the one in Chichester and ask for a transfer if not in stock.

Regardless, a dull Fisk ax is pretty good compared to a 6lb maul imo.
 
Okay, ill buck the trend. I got the fiskars sharpener and i think it works great for touch ups. Maintains factory angle with little material removal. Big nicks probably need something different. It does leave an edge that will cut paper just like your favorite knife does. Looks cheesy for sure but really effective.
 
Got a few small knicks on it..... getting time for a sharpening. I'm concerned about removing any more of the teflon than I have to. I do not own the Fiskars axe sharpener. Anyone got any helpful hints / techniques ? :confused:

I use a flat file as well. If I can find it, and you want it, I will send you my fiskars sharpener...since I don't use it.
 
I bought a cheap pocket knife sharpener at Gander mt. A few years back. A few passes with the carbide and a few on the ceramic makes the edge like new
Dave
 
Well, I was too lazy to run a file over my axe. I rigged up a saw horse to clamp the axe to, and used my grinder with a flap disc on it to sharpen it. I had to go over the edge in quick passes to keep from overheating the edge, but it worked quite well. I also did a couple hatchets with good results also.
 
I've been using a course bastard file for however long is needed to restore the edge to a relatively knick-free state. Then I use the pull-through Fiskars plastic sharpener which surprisingly puts a nice edge on it. I was convinced at first that the plastic sharpener couldn't really do much of anything, but it does actually sharpen the edge...it is limited to that though. You need a file (or grinder if you like power tools) to restore the edge from knicks.

I find that I end up just running it through the pull through sharpener every time I pick it up to use it (for the day/splitting session) then running it through again if I bury it in the dirt/driveway or if it's been through a ton of wood...just about like how you'd touch up a chain with a file on your saw.

My 2 cents...maybe someone else has a better way!
 
the fiskars head is perfect for clamping in the vise (edge up). then I just spin the vise to get the best angle for a small flat file...pay attention or you'll spin that handle right into your rib cage :pumpkin2:

I also use the fiskars sharpener, but instead of drawing the axe through it, I use two hands to hold it upside down, and draw the sharpener over the axe (while it's in my vise).

cheers!
 
What works best for me depends on how hacked up the edge is. I used to think the Fiskars sharpener was the biggest POS there was until I learned i was using it wrong,I used to lay the axe sharp side up on the bench and was trying to stroke the sharpener over it, DUH!! Once my wife:mad: showed me how to use it right, sharpener on bench and stroke the axe over it by its own weight only I like it a lot more. Works OK to keep the edge up but I sure would want to fix one that had hit a rock! When they are "kind of dull" I use an oil stone first and if real bad nicked etc I short cut the process starting with a grinder making quick passes prior to the oil stone and always finish with the Fiskars tool now. I dont think the no stick finish is a worry point, when used enough for the no stick to be wearing the sides should be polishing up and I cant tell one bit if or differance as to sticking, at least in the wood we mess with. Do pay close attention to the angles, that and being sharp are the main thing that will prevent sticking IMO.
 
To concur with others, the fiskars sharpener is good for edge maintenance and touch ups. For an axe head with significant wear and tear, a good file and whetstone are required. The plastic housing of the fiskars sharpener is not as robust as I would like, but nonetheless with a little patience and practice, it provides a stable enough base to do light sharpening.
 
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