Why do pro saws last longer?

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That's why you always take more than one saw to the woods. CAD has its uses. I once pinched a saw and tried to cut it out and pinched the other one as well. 4 saws later I got them all out, and still had 12 on the shelf if I needed them (or a box of wedges too if I didn't want to play a little). My dad was laughing his ass off, but then he couldn't say "why do you need all them saws".

Instead of taking a couple saws, why not take an extra bar and chain? Whenever I get a saw stuck, the first thing I do is take the bar off, whether I've got another saw or not. No point in damaging the saw while cutting it out. Put another bar on and move on. Extra bar a lot lighter than extra saw.
 
For me, the choice was between a used pro saw or a new plastic saw, so I came here to do some homework. I figured a used pro saw would outlive me unless I ph*cked it up, and if I did break it, they're easier to fix. Besides, lighter and more powerful is always good when you're a gearhead. :D
 
Instead of taking a couple saws, why not take an extra bar and chain? Whenever I get a saw stuck, the first thing I do is take the bar off, whether I've got another saw or not. No point in damaging the saw while cutting it out. Put another bar on and move on. Extra bar a lot lighter than extra saw.

That plan only works if you have an inboard clutch!
 
I don't think anyone answered the question

I appreciate all the replies, bu no one as far as I can tell actually answered the main question of why the Pro saws survive more hours of use than the homeowner ones do , if in fact that is actually the case. Exactly what features of a Pro saw make it last longer? I'm not talking about how many years a Pro would take to wear out a saw vs. the number of years it would last for the occasional user. (After all, either saw used a few hours a year will probably outlast the owner(s)!)

Comments like "the homeowner saws are made out of plastic" are not really relevant. All saws today are mostly polymer. The Pro saws have the mag case, but isn't that really for weight savings and ease of repair? The rest of the Pro saw has at least as much "plastic" as the consumer saw does. Or does the glass/nylon cradle fail much earlier than the magnesium housing?

One respondent claimed that the pistons and cylinder are "better". Is that actually correct?
 
One respondent claimed that the pistons and cylinder are "better". Is that actually correct?

Closed transfer ports work better than open ports, but open ports are cheaper to manufacture, so you could say the pro cylinders are better. Likewise, you can do little things with the shape of the piston to improve flow and power, but the more intricate you make it the more expensive it gets.
 
Can you get two thousand hours of torturous hard work in a bucking yard from a homeowner specific chainsaw and that is only to the first rebuild state, new bearings,seals ,gaskets and a new P&C and that saw is back out working again ? I have not seen one that would stand up to such use, so if anyone knows of a homeowner specific saw that will I would be happy to hear about it. Pioneerguy600
 
That's a classic! Kind of like selling to a drunk in a liquor store.


LOL, yup. I believe I could really sell some booze and I don't drink a drop. My line would be don't buy that cheap booze man, it will give you the runs, get the good stuff or if your buying cheap booze you'll need this 24 pack of Charmin, LOLOL
 
I appreciate all the replies, bu no one as far as I can tell actually answered the main question of why the Pro saws survive more hours of use than the homeowner ones do , if in fact that is actually the case. Exactly what features of a Pro saw make it last longer? I'm not talking about how many years a Pro would take to wear out a saw vs. the number of years it would last for the occasional user. (After all, either saw used a few hours a year will probably outlast the owner(s)!)

Comments like "the homeowner saws are made out of plastic" are not really relevant. All saws today are mostly polymer. The Pro saws have the mag case, but isn't that really for weight savings and ease of repair? The rest of the Pro saw has at least as much "plastic" as the consumer saw does. Or does the glass/nylon cradle fail much earlier than the magnesium housing?

One respondent claimed that the pistons and cylinder are "better". Is that actually correct?

Pro saws have better materials, like magnesium housings/covers/etc. They usually have a greater power to weight ratio and are easy to rebuild/service. I can't speak for the other brands but all Stihl saws are built tough.
 
Pro saws have better materials, like magnesium housings/covers/etc. They usually have a greater power to weight ratio and are easy to rebuild/service. I can't speak for the other brands but all Stihl saws are built tough.

Yup, yup, ya dayummmmmmmmmmmmm right!!
 
I do quite often get the non-pro user who comes in that has to have the pro saw whether he's going to use it or not. They are the easiest people to sell to. They've done their homework before coming in and know pretty well exactly what pro saw they want. Being polite I never remind them they don't really need such a saw, I merely advise extra chains, bar oil, motor mix, chaps, wedges, files, helmet and a case to go with it. I figure if they're going to buy sometihng they don't really need they may as well buy plenty of it,LOLOL

Thats me, Tom, but I dont care. I want good, high quality tools. I love quality built machines because for the time I use them, I use them hard. That and I just love chainsaws.
 
Thats me, Tom, but I dont care. I want good, high quality tools. I love quality built machines because for the time I use them, I use them hard. That and I just love chainsaws.

Good man, I'm the sameway.....
 
Instead of taking a couple saws, why not take an extra bar and chain? Whenever I get a saw stuck, the first thing I do is take the bar off, whether I've got another saw or not. No point in damaging the saw while cutting it out. Put another bar on and move on. Extra bar a lot lighter than extra saw.

Sure is, I had one of my 20" bars stuck in a maple that sat back on me a couple years ago. No problem take the 046 off and put another bar on then drop the tree right? Well thats how it should have gone, as the tree went over it twisted on the hinge and came down on the end of my bar :censored: (looking back i think I had the hinge thicker on one side) Sure made me glad I took the power head off, but I still felt like a moron :buttkick:
 
Originally Posted by THALL10326
I do quite often get the non-pro user who comes in that has to have the pro saw whether he's going to use it or not. They are the easiest people to sell to. They've done their homework before coming in and know pretty well exactly what pro saw they want. Being polite I never remind them they don't really need such a saw, I merely advise extra chains, bar oil, motor mix, chaps, wedges, files, helmet and a case to go with it. I figure if they're going to buy sometihng they don't really need they may as well buy plenty of it,LOLOL

Thats me, Tom, but I dont care. I want good, high quality tools. I love quality built machines because for the time I use them, I use them hard. That and I just love chainsaws.


I couldn't agree more with this. I am tired of taking apart that red craftsman trimmer that was purchased for my FIL 3+ years ago. it has less that 5 tanks of fuel through it but will not, no matter what, pull its own rope back into its self. If I can go out and start something that is 3+ times more costly but always starts It is money well spent. I will service it and when something breaks I will pull it apart 1 time and then it better be fixed for a while. life is to short to deal with disposable poorly designed and built stuff. I work to hard for my money to waste it like that.
 
LOL, good point. Most pro users I sell to tear a saw to hell in a few short years. They drop em out of trees, run over them and the list goes on and on. However the pro saw does indeed take more abuse than a homeowner type saw which is the main reason the pro uses only pro type saws. Pro type saws are easier to work on which is another plus for the pro guy. The homeowner is gonna come see me and he's gotsa payyyyyyyyyyyyy,LOL

Very true! I've replaced the fuel tank on my 036 twice my 044 twice and just replaced the the tank handle bar and bar on my dads 5100 that he bought three weeks ago. The nice thing about pro saws is you can do that, you smash a 350 or 290 you typically use it for parts or pitch it.
 
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