Deflector ready for welding
Woods porting a 044, picts heavy
- Thread starter pioneerguy600
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Alittle high temp header paint.
Pioneerguy600
Pioneerguy600
the westspartan
Addicted to ArboristSite
The muffler is further forward on an 044 than it looks in that picture. I have a port on my 441 in a similar spot and I can't feel any exhaust on my hands.
That pict is very decieving viewed from the front like that, the muffler and port are actually 3-4 " ahead of the front handle and blow the hot gasses away from your hand and body, unless you operate the saw from the bar end. LOL.
Pioneerguy600
parrisw
Tree Freak
ha ha ha ha. I'd like to see a vid of that.
caotropheus
ArboristSite Operative
Nice work Jerry.
You fellows have chainsaw mechanics knowledge light years in front of mine. :bang: Unbelievable.
You fellows have chainsaw mechanics knowledge light years in front of mine. :bang: Unbelievable.
Hi Jerry,
Did you check the piston ports against the lower transfers with the piston in the bore? On an engine I just built, they did not match and needed a bit of tweaking to be somewhere right.
Oh and thanks for posting piccys
Did you check the piston ports against the lower transfers with the piston in the bore? On an engine I just built, they did not match and needed a bit of tweaking to be somewhere right.
Oh and thanks for posting piccys
Excellent thread once again Jerry. I would still love to get into that but I don't think it's going to happen for me.
Hi Jerry,
Did you check the piston ports against the lower transfers with the piston in the bore? On an engine I just built, they did not match and needed a bit of tweaking to be somewhere right.
Oh and thanks for posting piccys
Yes, the cutouts around the piston pin lined up nicely with the lower transfer ports, I extended the upper transfers over to just short of the piston skirt edge and squared the top edge of the port to the top of the squish band.
Pioneerguy600
Thanks Jeff, you stick to making beautiful tables, stay away from the dirty porting game. LOL.
Pioneerguy600
WesternSaw
Addicted to ArboristSite
Thanks Jerry!
Jerry,Thanks for alerting me to this thread!Great information and pictures also.
Bruce is really going to appreciate the job you have done for him.Jerry,you and other's that have the talent for doing these custom engine mods and also basic engine mechanics can really help us newbies out with threads like this.I would like to see even basic stuff covered.I do realize though that it takes a lot of time to document and take pictures and then post it up and reply when others have questions.
Thanks for Sharing all of This!
Lawrence
Jerry,Thanks for alerting me to this thread!Great information and pictures also.
Bruce is really going to appreciate the job you have done for him.Jerry,you and other's that have the talent for doing these custom engine mods and also basic engine mechanics can really help us newbies out with threads like this.I would like to see even basic stuff covered.I do realize though that it takes a lot of time to document and take pictures and then post it up and reply when others have questions.
Thanks for Sharing all of This!
Lawrence
On chainsaws we may have a little more experience than you, however I bet you have much more experience in your line of work and your hobbies than I would. This chainsaw stuff is just a hobby but I use chainsaws a lot for woods work and firewood cutting and sort of grew up with chainsaws all around me.
Like all machinery they need repairs, I became the repairman. LOL
Pioneerguy600
Sharing what little knowledge and experiences I have is all part of belonging to this forum, others here willingly share their knowledge with me and I try to reciprocate a little also. Bruce`s saw is on its way back to him and I hope he enjoys his little hotrod, I cut with it for a half hour yesterday afternoon and it performed a little better than I had expected, I have been bragging the 044 modded saws up since I joined this site and they still impress me when ported and muffler modded and run with reduced squish. They can be taken further by doing a pop up piston and a bit of port timing changes but it`s not really necessary for a work saw, it just becomes a fun factor trying to squeeze every ounce of power from an engine.
Pioneerguy600
Jerry, Great informative thread. I have all the equipment to port, just not all the knowledge and guts to try it yet. But I'm getting close. It may help (at least for me) to state where you removed this material. Example: exhaust port - did you take any from the top, or all from the bottom and sides? Same on the intake and piston windows, where should you remove the most material? This info would help me (and others) better understand the porting concept. If you can give any info for this I would appreciate it..... my 044 may be my first patient.
Ok ED, if you look at the differences of sizes that I posted, for example; the exhaust port on the cylinder side, stock size was 27.19 and the width of the piston skirt was 33.87. Take the skirt width 33.87 - 27.19 = 4.68 mm. Now I want to leave at least 1 mm on each side for a good seal so 4.68 -2 =2.68 that I can remove but I have to determine from where, for this I have to mount the piston without rings on the rod and lower the cylinder down into place, insert the hold down screws and just snug them down. Through the intake and exhaust ports I insert a very sharp lead pencil and trace the outline of the port onto the piston. Remove the jug and piston and you have a visual of where the port is in relation to the piston skirt. Not all cylinders have the ports exactly centered to the piston skirts so I would not just go ahead and grind equal amounts off each side of the port before checking,and making the tracing. Once I have the tracing then I use a piece of masking tape and place it where the piston skirt actually lines up on the inside of the cylinder, on a used cylinder the skirt width will show as a more shiny area and is easy to identify, on a new cylinder it takes careful measurements. Next I mark out where I want to remove material and set the limits of where I want to stop at. I do all the measurements and taping for all the ports plus mark on the cylinder where the ring ends are located, this is important for the upper transfers on Stihl pistons. Once all the layout is done the fun part starts with the grinder. Hope this answers some of your questions and if not ask away and I will explain the best I can. After going through the port sizes I posted I caught a small mistake in the math on the last line of the post, it does not really matter but I will correct it, it is actually on the safe side so no harm done. I just tried to edit the post with the numbers in it but the site will not let me change it right now so it was the part where there is 33.83-3071=3.14/2=1.57 is the corrected figure not the =1.12 I had erronously posted ,sorry for that, I did all the math in my head after a very long day, head is getting fuzzy nowadays.
Pioneerguy600
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Thanks for the info, its starting to compute now. I have a nasty headcold and the medicine has me running slooooow. How do you determine the height of the exhaust/intake ports? Also, how do you determine what to remove on the piston windows? Forgive me if you answered it already somewhere, I feel like Im only running on one cylinder myself. lol
nanuk
ArboristSite Guru
And it is this kinda of generous passing of info that makes this forum so great.
It's NOT about Chainsaws all the time.... we have numerous disciplines on here.
And I am humbled at the offers of help, support, advice.
Ok ED;
If you get a chance check out the porting an 090 thread also, you will see a port map there that is made by inserting a sheet of paper into the cylinder, tape the edges into place making the paper into a drum that fits the inside of the cylinder tightly, secure the paper to the cylinder so that it does not slip areound. This is where you slip a lead pencil inside the paper drum and do an outlining of all the ports, just sorta rub the pencil lead over the edges of all the ports and he outlines will show up. Remove the paper drum and you have a map of the ports and their positions in relation to each other. From this map you can fairly accurately measure port sizes and shapes. Measure down from the top of the paper drum to all ports and then you will know where they are located measured from the cylinder head.
The piston windows are another area where every piston from each size of saw will differ and OEM will be different than aftermarket, you try to open them up but have to be careful of not damaging them structurally, round off all sharp edges, remove unnecessary lumps and casting flash, this will then allow more gases to flow through the windows and makes the piston a little lighter in the process, all good things for a little 2 stroke. With the piston windows there is no map of formula,it is just experience and possibly looking at others work that have gone before you, just ask and a lot of guys will show and tell a fair bit about what they know.
Pioneerguy600
