Do you like torque or RPMs?

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Brad is that a oem 460 topend? i have been thinking about trying a Mahle 460 topend from baileys but havent heard much about them yet... what are your thoughts?

Josh
 
What is four stroking? Seen those words a lot here lately. I couldnt tell what it was doing right out of the cut......newb
 
I would certainly have used bigger wood if I had it. Unfortunately, the wood lot where I had all that huge Oak, is all cut up, most of it gone. I use what I've got.

Brad,
I am surprised you have anything to cut near you.

I met you at my first GTG [poulan] and you were always cutting something and trying out saws.
You like to make them work.
 
sounds good that engines powerful sounding ,question ,would you run the rpms that high if in 28 inch wood and still pull the bar ok ?or would you richen it a little more ?

Depending on the ambient conditions cooler weather with a bit more humidity , then
In 28" wood it stands to reason that just a bit fatter tune (closer to OEM Spec) would help with maintaining the torque and longevity/reliability,,, wouldnt take much,,, its just something you have to play with,,, but If I know Brad he can figure it out...
 
Torque is king in all work settings related to saws of any size and work of any nature that isn't measured by seconds (ie cookie cutting).

That said the comparison of RPM's to Torque is somewhat ill, in the fact that I guess we would all like full loads of RPM's, but what does that mean? Is the comparison Horsepower vs Torque, still torque wins.

The only RPM's that matter are those in the cut and that takes Torque. Free load RPM's are of little importance if they just fall off like a rock off of a cliff when the chain hits the bark/wood or you pull on it a little.

In work settings such as felling trees, when you have a 28" bar or bigger in a cut and you are stopping to check the tree top, direct a skidder, pound a wedge or something and your saw doesn't have the torque to restart the chain in the cut or gets stalled out because you too aggressively laid it into a modest limb or knot or the rakers are too low, that high reving cookie cutter will fall flat on its face in the overall speed department of getting wood on the ground and cut up. Its my understanding that the saws setup to spin at such high revs get such horrible fuel mileage that is boggles the mind how anyone can get anything accomplished with them, I mean some of them are really bad.

The aforementioned is with the understanding that we are discussing basically, modern saws of say the last 15ish years or so. Not some old Homelite or Poulan, that have torque, but are so slow that you can watch the cutters go around the bar and give each one names.

My opinion,

Sam
 
No reason you can't have both torque and rpm's.

To set the record straight a good cookie cutter/race saw will have substantially more torque and rpm's in the wood than a normal woods ported saw. Anyone that says real race saws lack power in any way has never ran a race saw, and doesn't know what he's saying IMHO. I mean why do they have heat issues, because they don't make any power.:dizzy:

Nice try Jason, now try that in a real log.;):jester:
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