Today's Job...

[David (saltas)]

house and contents

I have been shopping around.

There is no good reason property insurance has gone to hell after what happened last year cyclones and floods.

With a $1000 dollar excess and a exclusion from flood cover, (it wont happen, and down stairs is cement blocks and tiles) I got a quote of $2600 after I dropped contents to $50K and Dropped a $100k of the house, The reduced cover will not build a new house but it would cover the materials and keep us in food while I rebuilt it myself

I have bee through a 1 in a hundred year flood back in 1998 and my house did not flood, Down stairs all the doors have a 100 mm sill under them so any run off water does not blow in.

I know some on who is with in a 100 meters of the 1 in a hundred flood, storm surge model and they cant get any insurance under $9600 for house and no contents if they want contents it is double that.

 

[MCW]

Well I finally pulled my finger out and uploaded a few older videos. The first one is of the LITA Intermediate Forestry course down at Mount Gambier a while back. Just shows the other two trainees running the MS660's and the MS261Q. The second video is of Stuart (the instructor) running my 390XP on a windblown pine. He loved it and being a Stihl man that always makes me smile. The videos were taken on my phone so not the best...

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/9oZD8_h4KvE" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/kSbqe39NUMw" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

 

[wyk]

That's a lot of powerhead for that bar in pine. er.. Jeffrey Pine is it? I see they are making you cut very close to the ground, too. Prolly want as much sap on yer bar as possible, I guess

 

[deye223]

nice vids matt thanks


must be back to normal i tryed to put a couple of vids in the same post the other day but no go mastermind had the same trouble too cheers

 

[MCW]

That's a lot of powerhead for that bar in pine. er.. Jeffrey Pine is it? I see they are making you cut very close to the ground, too. Prolly want as much sap on yer bar as possible, I guess

Not sure mate but I think it's Pinus radiata. It is certainly a lot of powerhead but the other guys were running the training company's 660's so had to whip something out to knock them off (well actually even the 7900 was flogging them which is what I used the first day - second and third day the 390 got a run). I was actually told to bring a bar with a max length of 18" which is standard practice during training. It's pretty easy to drop a 24" tree with a 32" bar and technique is what they're looking at here. The 660's getting used were running 20" bars so thats what I stuck on. As far as cutting close to the ground that's what was required here due to these heading for the mill. Stumps had to be a low as possible so machinery can move easily over it when dragging the logs out plus to get as much useable wood as they can.
The tree getting cut with the 261 was in a self sown area so these were a free for all and any cuts or stump height could be used.

must be back to normal i tryed to put a couple of vids in the same post the other day but no go mastermind had the same trouble too cheers

I haven't posted any videos for so long that I haven't seen any major issues for a while.

 

[wyk]

Not sure mate but I think it's Pinus radiata. It is certainly a lot of powerhead but the other guys were running the training company's 660's so had to whip something out to knock them off (well actually even the 7900 was flogging them which is what I used the first day - second and third day the 390 got a run). I was actually told to bring a bar with a max length of 18" which is standard practice during training. It's pretty easy to drop a 24" tree with a 32" bar and technique is what they're looking at here. The 660's getting used were running 20" bars so thats what I stuck on. As far as cutting close to the ground that's what was required here due to these heading for the mill. Stumps had to be a low as possible so machinery can move easily over it when dragging the logs out plus to get as much useable wood as they can.
The tree getting cut with the 261 was in a self sown area so these were a free for all and any cuts or stump height could be used.

Yeah. I experienced the same in Ireland and England. Shorter bars and more cuts, and cutting very close to the ground so the forwarder could get in there. And then there was stacking the wood... ugh...

It's where I also learned how to cut a tree down that was a bit more than twice the bar length. I have felled hundreds of trees of all types that were 18-30" with a 16" bar. It's annoying(and I eventually got a longer bar and used my own saw), but you learn a lot. During my certs, we had to bring a saw no larger than 50cc and a bar no longer than 15" and then cut 18-20" trees with several types of lean and several types of cuts. Good times. The only problem I have with the 'european way' is their reliance on bars/levers and small face cuts in the name of safety. I prefer a larger face cut and letting the tree do the work for me, even if it is a bit more dangerous.

 

[MCW]

Yeah. I experienced the same in Ireland and England. Shorter bars and more cuts, and cutting very close to the ground so the forwarder could get in there. And then there was stacking the wood... ugh...

It's where I also learned how to cut a tree down that was a bit more than twice the bar length. I have felled hundreds of trees of all types that were 18-30" with a 16" bar. It's annoying(and I eventually got a longer bar and used my own saw), but you learn a lot. During my certs, we had to bring a saw no larger than 50cc and a bar no longer than 15" and then cut 18-20" trees with several types of lean and several types of cuts. Good times. The only problem I have with the 'european way' is their reliance on bars/levers and small face cuts in the name of safety. I prefer a larger face cut and letting the tree do the work for me, even if it is a bit more dangerous.

I know what you mean. After the intermediate course I dropped a few bigger Casuarinas with the little 353 Husky and 18" bar. Unfortunately though in the real world it's also about efficiency and dropping bigger trees with small bars is all good fun and great for technique but it's not good for productivity.
Like you I've seen some serious "overcutting" of trees with some of the European forestry guys that I think is mostly unnecessary. If you or I get squashed by a tree by cutting a larger face only THEN will I call it dangerous

 

[parrisw]

I know what you mean. After the intermediate course I dropped a few bigger Casuarinas with the little 353 Husky and 18" bar. Unfortunately though in the real world it's also about efficiency and dropping bigger trees with small bars is all good fun and great for technique but it's not good for productivity.
Like you I've seen some serious "overcutting" of trees with some of the European forestry guys that I think is mostly unnecessary. If you or I get squashed by a tree by cutting a larger face only THEN will I call it dangerous

Matt do you use your sights when felling a tree with a bar that's smaller then the trunk when you have to attack it from both sides? I find it helps me get the first cut lined up even if you pick a far off point and line up your sight to that from both sides it pretty much gets you bang on, so your first cut is even all the way across.

 

[NORMZILLA44]

WYK and Matt good stuff, as for the bigger face it's what I was always taught and the euro style I have seen is real good, but man they don't understand our PNW applications. I am amazed how many guy's only know of or hoe to do a conventional face. Even the forestry crews here. The Humbolt is the safest on steep ground. The bigger face will steer that tree the best, and close last laying that tree closer to the ground. I know probably preaching to the choir LOL! And it always amuses me how big safety is today, yet they want low stumps. Too me I always saw that as unsafe practice, not only is it harder on your back, and knees, but you know how many guy's have been cracked, or slipped trying to get up and run from a branch. And its aa lot harder to watch the top and look up whil bent over or kneeling down. I have never agreed with that practice, and though not a production faller I will cut my stumps down once the tree is down. Good point on those sights Will I know I use them all the time I was taught too. Matt and all good to see you, and I really enjoy this thread! Hope you don't think I was directing that at you guy's just giving my two cents on styles. And I agree I am not a short bar guy. I use the one I can reach through or get the most from, that offers good balance, and can be packed all day. I run 28, 32, 34,

 

[parrisw]

Well said Norm! I don't like short bars either. Though I run 24" allot on my 70cc saws, great for firewood when the wood isn't too big.

 

[HorseFaller]

For my stihls the shortest is 28". The huski is small wears a 14" or a 16" not sure haven't run it in awhile.

 

[NORMZILLA44]

Thanks Will, I run a 24in on a 365 at work, for a lot of brush clearing I admit it has grown on me. Not a bad bar at all. My 70cc had all come with the 28 and I was pretty close to a 24 I figured. Never had enough money to buy extra bars, just extra saws with different bars LOL! No its funny how that worked out though. I think the 70cc saws were made to wear a 24-28 man makes em shine! And a dream for firewood for me. Funny my 34 on the 2101 has grown on me, feels good on that saw. Had a 36 on my 660, and I felt clumsy I am too short for a 36, weird the 34 feels better, only 2 inch difference. I really like a 28 too Horsefaller, and fits me good. My buddy John thinks I would be well suited with a 30 inch bar. My plan when I get cash is to switch to the Stihl es light, and or husky techlite. Because of this site, and another with good tips from friends. I recently got a 32 in for a work saw, at my job it is a es light I fell in love big difference better balance too. My plan at home is to keep the 34 hang it on the wall to have as a back up bigger bar, and switch all to the lighter bars, and I am going to re-evalute sizes. Always figured it wasn't worth replacing all just to give or take a couple inches. But going light has a ton of benefits and while I am there, it would be the time to re-size as well.

 

[HorseFaller]

Thanks Will, I run a 24in on a 365 at work, for a lot of brush clearing I admit it has grown on me. Not a bad bar at all. My 70cc had all come with the 28 and I was pretty close to a 24 I figured. Never had enough money to buy extra bars, just extra saws with different bars LOL! No its funny how that worked out though. I think the 70cc saws were made to wear a 24-28 man makes em shine! And a dream for firewood for me. Funny my 34 on the 2101 has grown on me, feels good on that saw. Had a 36 on my 660, and I felt clumsy I am too short for a 36, weird the 34 feels better, only 2 inch difference. I really like a 28 too Horsefaller, and fits me good. My buddy John thinks I would be well suited with a 30 inch bar. My plan when I get cash is to switch to the Stihl es light, and or husky techlite. Because of this site, and another with good tips from friends. I recently got a 32 in for a work saw, at my job it is a es light I fell in love big difference better balance too. My plan at home is to keep the 34 hang it on the wall to have as a back up bigger bar, and switch all to the lighter bars, and I am going to re-evalute sizes. Always figured it wasn't worth replacing all just to give or take a couple inches. But going light has a ton of benefits and while I am there, it would be the time to re-size as well.

If you like light try the stihl superlight bar its more money but well worth it. At my pro shop they run about $130. At work we only run 32" bars all Windsor and Oregon. Heavy stuff, the superlight is about a third and stiffer then the Oregon reduced weight. My boss flips me #### when he sees me run my own stuff at work. I told him if his stuff wasnt crap i would run his. He says he doesnt want to have to pay to replace my stuff when it wears out. I told him he will do it even if i have to just charge to his account anyways. Not really

But stihl/still a great bar well worth the money by far. Two fallers down the road use them also and love them. Them and I wont buy anything else now(well unless its the right price of course)

 

[NORMZILLA44]

Right on my friend, and yes the se light is the one I was refering too, that I got for work. Love it I think I will run it on my husky's too, and just get the adapter. Funny stuff about your boss LOL!

 

[MCW]

Matt do you use your sights when felling a tree with a bar that's smaller then the trunk when you have to attack it from both sides? I find it helps me get the first cut lined up even if you pick a far off point and line up your sight to that from both sides it pretty much gets you bang on, so your first cut is even all the way across.

Hi Will. No I don't as a rule. I use it for lining up the face on the first cut but just go by feel and the good old Mk II eyeball on the second cut (Mk I eyeball was pre laser surgery ). When felling softwoods with a sharp chain and powerful saw I've found I get the odd overcut when I'm not careful

Hope you don't think I was directing that at you guy's just giving my two cents on styles.

Not at all Norm
I've used a 32" bar a lot but more so for speed and productivity, not because it's always needed. The windbreak felling I was doing is completely different to what most people do though. In this large Casuarina job I did I used a 24" bar for probably 60% of the work, a 32" bar for 30%, and smaller saws and/or a 20" for the remainder. I still have around 300-400 trees left on that job and should get to them over the next 4 months I would think. Looking forward to cranking the saws up again in anger

I can't remember if I mentioned it in this thread or not (it's gotten too big!) but the highest average trees felled per hour was actually with my 5100-S and 18" bar (3/8") which worked out to 155 trees. They only maxxed out at about 20" though! Selling that 5100-S is the dumbest saw move I've ever made

I wish Stihl would make their lightweight bars in a Husky mount though - they look like really nice bars. I'd have thought it would be good advertising and smart business sense on their part but alas, typical Stihl stubborness...

"If you vant our bars you vill buy our Stihl saws yes?".

Um no Mr Stihl, I won't...

I could run an adaptor but my stubborness will exceed Stihl's on this one...

 

[Hddnis]

Just been reading through this page and thought I'd pop in with some ideas. I try to minimize time at the base of the tree, kind of consider it a kill zone, where I'm trying to kill the tree and, it's trying to kill me.

Some trees need wedging, levers, jacks, explosives, etc. But if a little bigger face will cut your time in the kill zone down by a few seconds it can be safer.

We use that while climbing too. Our face cut on a big evergreen stem as we are blocking it down will often be halfway or even more of the diameter. If your tree is 40" in diameter and you can only drop a 48"-72" chunk of it this lets gravity do a lot of the work while still giving good control. Pounding wedges or trying to push against your flip line and saddle, while hanging 60' in the air, brings a whole bunch of risks.




Mr. HE

 

[Hddnis]

...
I wish Stihl would make their lightweight bars in a Husky mount though - they look like really nice bars. I'd have thought it would be good advertising and smart business sense on their part but alas, typical Stihl stubborness...

"If you vant our bars you vill buy our Stihl saws yes?".

Um no Mr Stihl, I won't...

I could run an adaptor but my stubborness will exceed Stihl's on this one...

You really should consider the adapter. It is the ultimate way of sticking it to German haughtiness.

I didn't think I would like adapters, but I put one on my ported Echo 4600 because I really like how the saw cut. I've been sold on adapters since then, I forget they're even on the saw. I make my own, using a drill press and angle grinder, so the fit is really tight. I make them out of an old solid bar. So far I've only cut a few inches off the end to make several adapters.



Mr. HE

 

[Rudolf73]

[snip]

I wish Stihl would make their lightweight bars in a Husky mount though - they look like really nice bars. I'd have thought it would be good advertising and smart business sense on their part but alas, typical Stihl stubborness...

"If you vant our bars you vill buy our Stihl saws yes?".

Um no Mr Stihl, I won't...

I could run an adaptor but my stubborness will exceed Stihl's on this one...

I sink you should try some stihl light bars Matt, they are awesome

(brad is selling a 28" for $65 - half price)

 

[NORMZILLA44]

Good stuff Matt. I agree it would be better buisness to market both popular brands in Stihl es light. Don't know why they are so hard nosed. My saw shop friends sell over 250k in Stihl equipment on a good year. They were smart enough to fight tooth and nail with Stihl so the could get Husky, and echo under the same roof too. And they work on everything. They are then penalized by Stihl and not allowed what I think the gold rank? Whatever you can sell at the lowest price for. So the rental yard down the street has the rating because they are Stihl exclusive, so they can undercut the saw shop who has been there since 1974 or 77. Yet the rental yard on a good year sells 20 k worth, and most of that is not pro models either. Kind of angers me with Stihl kind of arrogant. Hddnis I agree may have to look in to them adapters myself, great bars. Rudolf I was eyeballing that bar of Brads too, great price.

 

[WoodChuck'r]

Hey Norm.

Long time no see buddy.