Stihl MS441CRM-Tronic Ported Work Saw Review

[Stihlman441]

Cheers mate,put ya vid on youtube and go video manager (top right) then edit vid and ya can rotate it there.

 

[deye223]

thanks man just gotter figure out where to put it (wich thread)

 

[Stihlman441]

I have started a new post if you guys wont to see what i have been up to.

http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/191377.htm

 

[Stihlman441]

Ya got a good eye.

 

[inthewoodsagain]

Nice to see you using BP Ultimate fuel aswell. It does make a difference.
One other tip I learn't ffor these saws is to retune carb after MM. This is how it is done and should also make a difference if not already done.

1 - remove chain and guide bar

2- replace chain srocket cover

3- Set master control lever to Start ie bottom setting with arrow next to it

4- Start saw but do NOT blip throttle trigger and leave to run for 60 seconds, then move trigger switch to stop. Callibration is done.

The saw carb callibrates its self in this mode and time sequence. It is inportant not to blip the throttle but to leave alone for this time period. By moving trigger to stop position, the saw's memory will remember the settings for any future start-up.

Cheers:msp_smile:

Hi and am glad you are enjoying your sawhttp://www.arboristsite.com/images/smilies/biggrin.gif. we have been VERY busy lately so no time for updates but here goes!

We now have 8 X ms441 c-m's - 2 x 18" , 4 x 25" and 2 x 30" all stihl bar and chain except 1x 25" is a Duo bar as is running in VERY hard Elm! yes we still have the odd tree. but still all with RSC 3/8 chain. We tried to get the 27" light bars but stihl uk are asking a FORTUNE so we went for the bigger 30" for a cheaper pricehttp://www.arboristsite.com/images/smilies/msp_smile.gif and are ES's so still good and which to be honest the saws aren't bothered.

All bar oil pumps have being up rated to the larger pump mod due to major oil issues!!!! ie NONE on 25" and 30" bars and all now have the larger sprocket covers and on two of the saws 25" and 30" we have fullwrap handles!- for a purpose before anybody winges!!!

All still run on stihl oils ie Bioplus and Ultra but am getting annoyed that it cannot be bought more cheaper in bulk instead of silly small containers. after all Mobil makes it! Have traded all small ie ms240 size saws including my favorite 211's for 4x ms241cm as I know they will be good and as with the bigger ones ,are alot better on fuel usage and DON'T stink of petrol/oil fumes and will have plenty of torque and will run at there optimum.

I am very happy with all my saws and as with many of you guys out there, PLEASE will somebody at Stihl bring us the MS661c-m!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! ASAP!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Thanks

I have 3 x ms 660's which are frankly finnished and I will be lucky if they see this season out. They are not even worth parts as each keeps the other going! They have done alot so I would'nt sell them anyway but they have taught me one lesson and that is YOU GET WHAT YOU PAY FOR!

Cheers

 

[Stihlman441]

Good stuff mate cheap us posted on the CMs performance.:msp_thumbsup:

 

[Edge & Engine]

Did anyone try setting the tach to 2 pulses per revolution? 720 mode on Fast Tach or Tech Tach. Just curious.

 

[mdavlee]

Did anyone try setting the tach to 2 pulses per revolution? 720 mode on Fast Tach or Tech Tach. Just curious.

I can try that later on today with the fast tach on the 555.

 

[Slamm]

I tried every setting with the Works Connection engineer/tech on the phone and he/we couldn't get it to work at all levels of Free Reving, in the cut or under 13,000ish the tach worked fine for me. Its when the saw hits the rev limiter or you start to make the Mtronic work the ignition, thats when the small tach begins showing an estimated rpm in weirdo ranges higher than 18,000ish.

I will probably hack up the explain of the process for why this happens, but another knowledgeable guy stated that the tach is making a calculation to come up with the rpm amount, not something as simple as one rpm per one "sensed" spark, and when the rev limiter is hit or you start to make the Mtronic start "tuning" the ignition timing that is when things go weird with that calculation.

That being said, the little tach comes set at the correct setting for a saw, but its the ignition advancing/retarding that messes up the tach's ability to correctly calculate the rpm during this process of the Mtronic hunting for the proper ignition advance or "retardation" in order to maximize performance.

I'm picking up two Mtronic's tomorrow and will add the tachs to them tomorrow and continue working figuring this out. I put 10 hours on my regular, painted 441 a few days ago (in one day), so I will try to check the hours accuracy against the regular 441's to see if that is still working correctly, as that could be a calculation that is screwed up by the Mtronic, depending on how the program is designed to calculate "time".

Later,

Sam

 

[mdavlee]

The 555 when revved out of wood showed 12.8k. It didn't have a problem reading the autotune saw. The 3120 through it for a loop as soon as it went over 10.8k it started cutting out. It did record a high of 11.8 so I'm pretty sure it's got the 12k rpm tach.

 

[Slamm]

The 555 when revved out of wood showed 12.8k. It didn't have a problem reading the autotune saw.

Does the 555's "autotune" make adjustments to the ignition's timing based on work load? If it doesn't then it should work fine with most tach's.

The Mtronic monitors the rpm's and workload and modifies the timing in order to provide maximum performance.

Sam

 

[mdavlee]

I'm not sure what it changes. I'll try it in the wood and see if it goes crazy.

 

[porsche965]

I tried every setting with the Works Connection engineer/tech on the phone and he/we couldn't get it to work at all levels of Free Reving, in the cut or under 13,000ish the tach worked fine for me. Its when the saw hits the rev limiter or you start to make the Mtronic work the ignition, thats when the small tach begins showing an estimated rpm in weirdo ranges higher than 18,000ish.

I will probably hack up the explain of the process for why this happens, but another knowledgeable guy stated that the tach is making a calculation to come up with the rpm amount, not something as simple as one rpm per one "sensed" spark, and when the rev limiter is hit or you start to make the Mtronic start "tuning" the ignition timing that is when things go weird with that calculation.

That being said, the little tach comes set at the correct setting for a saw, but its the ignition advancing/retarding that messes up the tach's ability to correctly calculate the rpm during this process of the Mtronic hunting for the proper ignition advance or "retardation" in order to maximize performance.

I'm picking up two Mtronic's tomorrow and will add the tachs to them tomorrow and continue working figuring this out. I put 10 hours on my regular, painted 441 a few days ago (in one day), so I will try to check the hours accuracy against the regular 441's to see if that is still working correctly, as that could be a calculation that is screwed up by the Mtronic, depending on how the program is designed to calculate "time".

Later,

Sam

Sam, Aren't you getting some very useful knowledge of the rpms in the cut anyway even if the WOT rpms are being confused and negated out of the recorded highs? Just thinking....and with M-Tronic or AutoTune does it really matter what the WOT rpms are anyway? You can't change them, except maybe by a performance change with a different rim sproket pulling in the cut?
Just thinking...for what little I know.
One thing is certain, the M-Tronics have many things worked out the way they run. Just wait for the 461 and the 661! That will be something for sure!
Take care.

 

[David (saltas)]

I put a works connection tachometer on the MS241 yesterday and it worked fine below 10k

I decided it was the ignition timing being advanced and retarded that was confusing the tachometer.

I did make a video of this.

[video=youtube_share;LaH5Pl4AN1o]http://youtu.be/LaH5Pl4AN1o[/video]

I just read slams comments and I agree with what he has posted

 

[Slamm]

I had a Works Connection Tach's on my old 441 CM and it worked very similar to how yours is working there. I could cut with it and show in the cut readings of say 10,200 or something, but it did get irractic at times, shooting up to 18,000 and whatnot.

Then yesterday I tried to get 4 different Works Connection Tach's to just do what that tach and your tach are doing and none of them would do it. Also, they would only run semi correctly on the 1.0 setting, and not the .5 setting like my old one did and possibly like yours is doing? I can't explain that either.

But after much testing and playing around with different wire wrapping techniques and locations, I found that they went weird at just above 7,000 rpms, and it didn't matter what you did with the wire at all, bear in mind that my other tach a Tech Tach-20K and it works just fine with the 441 CM and that is how I was testing it.

So if you slowly reved up the engine it would start getting dumb at 7,000. I appears that yours did it too. You could hold steady rpms at say 6,300, but then after that it was jumping to 8k, 10k or 500rpm it went all over the place.

Anyways, I have a solution maybe two solutions, but I'm going to finish out the mounting first and try somemore before I say its a complete solution, so as to not misguide anyone.

Sam

 

[Stihlman441]

Did a quick vid today of the 261 dual port muff with the Work Connectoin tack on it, 3/8 .063 18'' Carlton semi chisel chain 7 pin sprocket in Redgum.
Its not the best bit hard on ya lonesome but ya get the idear how its supposed to work,i leaned it out to 13700 13800 after seeing this,havnt tuned it for awhile.

[video=youtube;XbuPrSLorsU]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XbuPrSLorsU[/video]

 

[Stihlman441]

For those of you that dont wont a ported 441CMTronic i have been playing around with a stock one,then did a muff modd on it which has improved a good thing to a better thing.
Stock on second tank of fuel 20'' bar new semi chisel chain,8 pin sprocket,top wood is Pine bottom dryish Sugargum.

[video=youtube;bKiNyhBS0OE]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bKiNyhBS0OE[/video]

 

[Stihlman441]

Same bar and chain but with muff modd.

[video=youtube;exwpA0mjccY]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=exwpA0mjccY[/video]

 

[deye223]

cool man:boss:

 

[Stihlman441]

Stock muff

Muff modd