R1!
ArboristSite Operative
Thank You Philbert you are a gentleman.
Cheers.
Cheers.
my experience with stihl
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Adirondackstihl
Flyz, Fuel & Fotos
Rep sent!!
Many can sharpen a chain like that in 10-15 minutes. A lot cheaper than a new chain. Or if you can find a good shop, I gather it can be $7-10 to sharpen. A bar if not damaged should be good for many chains with a few touch ups along the way.
Clean wood should not dull super fast but you do need to touch up chains once in a while. A while can be defined as hours or minutes if you have rotten luck and hit something like dirt or wire. Sparks flying is a clue that you hit something the chain does not like. Some woods are really hard and can dull a chain faster than something soft like fresh cut pine. I cut down a 2 or 3 year dead on the stump yellow pine, tornado killed it and two cedars. I sharpened my chain twice trying to drop it. That tree was only 60 years old so probably 24 in diameter but pretty hard, not hickory hard, but hard to cut. Once dropped it was not so hard on the chain. Maybe I was hitting some stones from the road that grew into the bark. It did toss a few sparks which that saw never has done.
Clean wood should not dull super fast but you do need to touch up chains once in a while. A while can be defined as hours or minutes if you have rotten luck and hit something like dirt or wire. Sparks flying is a clue that you hit something the chain does not like. Some woods are really hard and can dull a chain faster than something soft like fresh cut pine. I cut down a 2 or 3 year dead on the stump yellow pine, tornado killed it and two cedars. I sharpened my chain twice trying to drop it. That tree was only 60 years old so probably 24 in diameter but pretty hard, not hickory hard, but hard to cut. Once dropped it was not so hard on the chain. Maybe I was hitting some stones from the road that grew into the bark. It did toss a few sparks which that saw never has done.
The blued band along the bottom edge of the bar is indicative of two things:
1. It was tortured by having really fiended chain dragged across it under pressure.
2. Op clearly never flipped the bar.
OP would benefit greatly by learning how to constantly monitor saw/chain performance. When it's "broke" stop the engine and fix it now. Do not ever confuse a saw with a Ditch-Witch.
With a chain that badly hosed, it's going to lose about half the metal on its cutters before being able to cut. I'd see if someone with a grinder can slowly grind the cutters back to where they can be filed with reasonable effort. Or, replace it and mount the buggered one somewhere to provide ongoing lessons.
OP should also study up on chain pitch, gauge, #DL, cutter type. Facilitates intelligent conversation.
Learning how to file chains, and doing it OFTEN is his key for future cutting.
His dealer is totally incompetent.
1. It was tortured by having really fiended chain dragged across it under pressure.
2. Op clearly never flipped the bar.
OP would benefit greatly by learning how to constantly monitor saw/chain performance. When it's "broke" stop the engine and fix it now. Do not ever confuse a saw with a Ditch-Witch.
With a chain that badly hosed, it's going to lose about half the metal on its cutters before being able to cut. I'd see if someone with a grinder can slowly grind the cutters back to where they can be filed with reasonable effort. Or, replace it and mount the buggered one somewhere to provide ongoing lessons.
OP should also study up on chain pitch, gauge, #DL, cutter type. Facilitates intelligent conversation.
Learning how to file chains, and doing it OFTEN is his key for future cutting.
His dealer is totally incompetent.
Adirondackstihl
Flyz, Fuel & Fotos
I disagree
The blueing that you see there is part of a factory controlled temper process
Had the bar actually got hot enough to "blue".....there would be no paint or the paint would have a severly significant "burnt" appearance.
.
I agree
Chris-PA
Where the Wild Things Are
The marks on the side of this one kind of bother me:
If you had the wood off the ground, you may have hit something in the wood, like a piece of metal grown into the tree. Or it could have been from touching it down to the ground and hitting a stone. Still, I've rocked chains enough and not seen that kind of damage.
If you had the wood off the ground, you may have hit something in the wood, like a piece of metal grown into the tree. Or it could have been from touching it down to the ground and hitting a stone. Still, I've rocked chains enough and not seen that kind of damage.
superwd6
ArboristSite Operative
$700 gets you a spur sprocket??
. Stihl should be ashamed as my discount Redmax 5300 gives me rim choices
oke:
. Stihl should be ashamed as my discount Redmax 5300 gives me rim choicesoke:R1!
ArboristSite Operative
Or the rocks and dirt embedded in if it was dragged back to where it was hoisted off the ground.
Was it from a busy road side not far off the road.
Was it from a busy road side not far off the road.
memory
ArboristSite Guru
I would say he hit metal. I had a family member that hit metal and he still cut through it instead of stopping. It looked really similar to that last pic.
Going by the amount he had used the saw, I wouldn't think a chain would get that bad when cutting off the ground. Even if he never sharpened it, he only ran less than two tanks through the saw.
But that still does not explain the smoking when just revving it unless he pinched the bar.
Going by the amount he had used the saw, I wouldn't think a chain would get that bad when cutting off the ground. Even if he never sharpened it, he only ran less than two tanks through the saw.
But that still does not explain the smoking when just revving it unless he pinched the bar.
ptjeep
Addicted to ArboristSite
fordbroncodave
ArboristSite Lurker
can someone recommend a replacement chain that will better suit my needs? Like I said above, I cut a tree 6" or taller off the ground, when it topples I cut off a few large chunks and put those in the firewood pile, the rest (small stuff) goes in the brush pile usually 2" or smaller.
My saw does not come in contact with the ground doing this method.
I cut all kinds of things in the woods to relieve farm equipment of being grown in.
elm, birch, box elder, maple, pine, sumach (big sumach that has a base diameter of 3-4":msp_scared
I have the biggest saw of all we have, would prefer to have a chain for large diameter as we heat with anything that splits in the splitter
My saw does not come in contact with the ground doing this method.
I cut all kinds of things in the woods to relieve farm equipment of being grown in.
elm, birch, box elder, maple, pine, sumach (big sumach that has a base diameter of 3-4":msp_scared
I have the biggest saw of all we have, would prefer to have a chain for large diameter as we heat with anything that splits in the splitter
nmurph
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You doomssayers should chill a little. He has run 1.5g through the saw without sharpening. I'm certain he is not the first to do that. The chain is dull, but a little time with a file will have it cutting like new. From what I see, I don't think he will lose much of the cutter. The side of one of the cutters looks like it might have hit something, but the top plates don't show the same. As was mentioned, the blueing on the edge of the bar is normal and I don't see any blueing on the cutters that should cause concern. The OP is a newb and didn't know better. I'm sure the OP has learned a lot from his mistake and the public flogging. Philbert will get him cutting and help him learn some of the finer points of running a saw, sharpening a chain, and tensioning the chain properly. I would say that the shop is the one that deserves a dope slap across the back of the head. The good thing about Phil helping is that the next time the OP walks into the shop he will likely know more about what he needs than those that work there.
Your chain is certainly not toast, but it is overdue for a sharpening.
You are using what is called 'full chisel chain' (looks like the number '7' from the end), which cuts faster when sharp, but dulls faster. Once that leading corner dulls, things slow way down. Your corners are pretty dull and the cutters need to be filed/ground/sharpened back to re-form the cutting edges and this point.
The more commonly used chain is called 'semi-chisel chain' (looks more like a question mark '?' from the end) - does not cut quite as fast, but is more forgiving in dirty wood.
You can buy either type in the STIHL or Oregon brand to fit your saw.
Dulling a chain can happen in a fraction of a second - we have all done it. The key thing is to recognize it and find a way that works for you to get it sharp again.
Philbert
Dennis Gauge
ArboristSite Operative
The safest thing to do here is start over fresh with a new bar and chain.
Yes, that chain is duller than a butter knife, and looks like he was using it to cut granite.
What we don't know is the damage to the bar. He could sharpen this chain and end up with the same problem. He could buy a new chain and end up with the same problem.
We don't know the damage to the bar.
In the grand scheme a new bar and chain is cheap insurance. Then the OP can maintain it properly from here on out.
Stick with Stihl branded chains and bars. There was nothing wrong with what you had, you just didn't maintain it properly, and abused it until it wouldn't go anymore. Chalk it up as a lesson learned, luckily not a terribly expensive lesson.
Above all, find a different dealer.
Yes, that chain is duller than a butter knife, and looks like he was using it to cut granite.
What we don't know is the damage to the bar. He could sharpen this chain and end up with the same problem. He could buy a new chain and end up with the same problem.
We don't know the damage to the bar.
In the grand scheme a new bar and chain is cheap insurance. Then the OP can maintain it properly from here on out.
Stick with Stihl branded chains and bars. There was nothing wrong with what you had, you just didn't maintain it properly, and abused it until it wouldn't go anymore. Chalk it up as a lesson learned, luckily not a terribly expensive lesson.
Above all, find a different dealer.
Fish
Tree Freak
http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/235750-4.htm
The point on that chain is going to take some serious filing to get rid of all of that damage, a
grinder would be much better.
pic #1
It's OK to tear up a chain, just make it right
I file and grind my own chain, but I just took two ugly loops back to my dealer. Dirty, nasty , sandy big arse stump fought back. Lot's of cutter left(new chain), and it gives my dealer a chance to abuse me for cutting rocks, and I get to look at new saws. I am not shocked the OP's chain got rocked/tore up, it is part of the use of the tool. However, What I would suggest is the OP become familiar with his equipment, it's use and it's maintenance. Find a relationship with a dealer that can help you. It seems a little unfair that Stihl gets' blasted in the title.:dunno:
Fish, no slacking today. I noticed you were still sober at 3:45 yesterday in this thread. You need to get at it early today:msp_biggrin:
I file and grind my own chain, but I just took two ugly loops back to my dealer. Dirty, nasty , sandy big arse stump fought back. Lot's of cutter left(new chain), and it gives my dealer a chance to abuse me for cutting rocks, and I get to look at new saws. I am not shocked the OP's chain got rocked/tore up, it is part of the use of the tool. However, What I would suggest is the OP become familiar with his equipment, it's use and it's maintenance. Find a relationship with a dealer that can help you. It seems a little unfair that Stihl gets' blasted in the title.:dunno:
Fish, no slacking today. I noticed you were still sober at 3:45 yesterday in this thread. You need to get at it early today:msp_biggrin:
Philip Wheelock
Finis Origine Pendet
To the OP: This dealer is incompetent; take the saw to another local dealer; you can find them on the Stihl website, preferably one with "Elite Dealer" and "Factory Certified Service Technician" status. Have the new dealer check out your bar and chain, and have them sharpen the chain if it's salvageable. Ask them to explain how to sharpen the chain and buy a sharpening kit. Also recommend a "stump vise", which is cheaper than buying a vise for sharpening. Also an extra chain or two. Semi-chisel (compared than full-chisel) chains stay sharp longer. The bar groove has to be cleared of junk every time you change chains and flip the bar. The dealer can explain this. There are a surprising number of maintenance items necessary to keep a chainsaw running well.
moronmountain
ArboristSite Operative
I'm casting my vote for the chain just being too tight, or the bar having a pinch somewhere.
Fish
Tree Freak
With the saw not running, you should be able to rotate the chain by hand, if not, then find out why.
