my experience with stihl

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I'm still curious what the number is stamped into the drive link on the chain that is beat up.

Fordbroncodave -- can you get the number off your chain that is beat up in the same place the "72" is stamped on this chain and either post a picture or tell us?

P1110673c.jpg



You will need to pull the chain out from the bar to get the number stamped on the drive links like the image shown below... Your earlier pictures never showed the chain pulled away from the bar or off the bar... I just want to be 100% sure it's the right gauge for the 0.050 gauge bar you have... I know I read that a 0.058 would never fit in a 0.050 bar, but who knows -- my curiosity on what the number is on your drive links is still bugging me :)

P1160772c1.jpg



I'm also curious if your new chain has made a difference.
 
Wrong chain build?

I did not read the entire post or see the pix BUT...
If someone was not paying attention or was rushed by his boss they might have installed the connector link or half of it UPSIDE DOWN!!! Or spun the rivets too tight. Look at every link on both sides you might have this problem that is IF your chains were "made up" from a roll with breaker & spinner tools.
 
Wow, this thread really has some staying power. It's a story that's been a little hard to follow too. What's the world coming to when I find myself defending Stihl???:msp_confused:

To the OP: So now you are disappointed in the second dealer because he told you the chain was dull? Never buy another Stihl product again? You might only need to buy a file.

Do we know if the problem went away with the installation of the new chain? If so, then we have our answers. I don't know if I missd it or not, but did the original chain have oil on the drivers or was it dry??? As has been pointed out, the OP has not done been forthcoming with answers to simple questions from the guys who are trying to help him out.

Whoever the guy was who mentioned that some new bars can come with oil holes closed off made a real good point. It's rare but it does happen now and then. And again, looking to see if oil was on the bar would be a good place to start. That responsibility falls on the dealer when the customer brings in the saw.

You guys that know me know I'm not taking the dealer's side here simply because I am one myself. But too many parts of the OP's story just don't add up. Is it really possible to run a gallon and a half of fuel through a saw that has a severe smoking/heat problem as described? We've all run a saw out of oil now and then. How long can you continue to cut when that happens? About a half minute maybe?

I know there are plenty of lame dealers out there, but don't make generalizations based on your own negative experiences. Actually I love lame dealers. I scored a new tree guy today because his local Husky dealer handed him back his 346 and said they couldn't figure out why it wouldn't run. (visual spark, but bad coil. weird, but it can happen)

I'd really like to get my hands on the OP's saw and find out what the deal is. (And a dealer really shouldn't charge a customer just to check a new unit to see if it's OK. We have a policy where we won't even talk about "who pays" until we find out what happened.) I suspect there's really nothing wrong with it, except the price. Are 391's really up around $700? My God that seems high. I'll sell you a 555 for $550. ;)

Another one of my long winded posts..............:laugh:
 
In January 2013 I bought a brand new MS391 off the shelf with the case, stihl extra chain, stihl cold climate bar oil and synthetic stihl engine oil. I spent just under $700 for the whole package and when I bought the extras my warranty was bumped up to 2 years.

After first use I noticed something was wrong, the bar gets hot and smoke rolls off of it. I turned the oiler all the way up and it sprays a good line. It still continues to smoke off the chain and once in a while throw a spark off.

I brought it in where I bought it and says everything looks good and sprays oil well, then says they will test it out on some logs but will have to charge me for it (um no. that is not how this works)

So I left and tried it a few more times back at the farm, this whole time I only used 3/4 of a gallon of bar oil and maybe 1.5 gallons of fuel mix (that is how long I have owned the saw)

Brought it back in today and says that everything looks good, chain tension is good, sprays oil, chain moves freely, bearing looks good, clutch material looks good, brake works and then the blade is tough but useable. (once again insisted they test it on wood and will need to charge me to do it)

I told him, just standing there holding the saw and reving it, smoke will roll of the bar like none other and it gets so hot you cannot touch it. it sears the wood like a steak on a grill. the darn thing cuts fine until it starts getting hot and smokes then doesn't want to do anything (same as when I first tried it)

3rd time emailing stihl about the problem and have not received an email yet.

dad bought a smaller echo within a week of me getting this stihl and we both cut wood at the same time and have about the same amount of use. his still out cuts mine since both were new. very dissapointed with this whole experience :mad:




You know, this is a great forum. I'm so glad I found this place, so many nice helpful people.
Chain saws are definitely fun.

Ford Dave, I hope the NEW chain works. Umm, if nothing else PAY then to test the saw in the log (if you dare go back I guess)
Does the extra chain that came with the saw have matching numbers?
Also I see the chain moves freely, I see the break works, see it squirts oil, Dang $700 is a lot to spend for this much stress. Its only been 4 months since you got it.
Wish I could help more.
If the saw is under warranty does that mean the saw needs to be serviced by the dealer it was purchased at?
 
The MS 391 is $559 with 20" blade... $700 with helmet and chaps.
 
Did I miss out on anyone mentioning the burr on the bar
and some of the chain links ?
post#55, frames 898 & 900 show it pretty well.

I'd take a good look at the bar rails and groove
and make sure the chain pulls freely and isn't too tight.
( It does look a bit snug in earlier frames, post #43)

To FordBroncoDave, Not to be piling on top of you
( Expect it feels that way by now )
I nicked a concrete drive, with a new saw and chain
during the first few minutes of running it.
Between newer anti-vibe mounts and old nerve issues in hands,
I almost didn't fell it touch.
Was just a little scratch on the concrete but but that's all it took.

sorta Grumbled at myself under my breath and went
and changed out chains.

It's good to have a couple fresh chains on hand
so that we don't feel the urge to push on with a dulled one.

plus there ain't nuthin much that feels like a razor sharp chain
throwing that wood out !!
Yeah, you may have noticed that we're fond of sharp stuff around here.

keep reading here and checking the vids that these guys put up
You'll be hooked on maintaining the tools and enjoying the results of it !!!
 
Yeah, tired. Why make anymore posts? I will go the way of Andy and Thall, no reason to keep posting.......

What a shame that we lost those guys! And now you are going in the same direction. These are disturbing times. I sure am happy that I met some of the elder folks who were here from the beginning. And their experience was simply fantastic. Just ask a question recieve the answer end of discussion. Just that simple.

7
 
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I am constantly at odds with the store owner about his "shop warranty" practices. We do not charge for estimates, chains are $7 regardless of length or damage, and he gives ALOT of stuff away. Just replaced a head on an FS-90 yesterday where the owner had obviously hit something and damaged the head. No charge said the shop owner. I do file warranty claims on new stuff if it fails, but we eat plenty of it too. We would not be charging to test run a new saw, and he probably would have just gotten a (free) new chain and some more instruction at our place. Maybe that is why we are exploding in size, even during a terrible economy.

Let it be known that the oilers on newer saws are stingy, so when things go awry it can get ugly. More on that later. Off to have a baby.

Congrats .......... is this your first ?
 
You know, this is a great forum. I'm so glad I found this place, so many nice helpful people.
Chain saws are definitely fun.

Ford Dave, I hope the NEW chain works. Umm, if nothing else PAY then to test the saw in the log (if you dare go back I guess)
Does the extra chain that came with the saw have matching numbers?
Also I see the chain moves freely, I see the break works, see it squirts oil, Dang $700 is a lot to spend for this much stress. Its only been 4 months since you got it.
Wish I could help more.
If the saw is under warranty does that mean the saw needs to be serviced by the dealer it was purchased at?

No, the saw does not need to be serviced at the place of purchase because of the warranty. You can take it to any store that sells Stihls that is authorized to work on them.

Maybe I missed it but did the new chain solve the problem?
 
Well ok, At least let us know how the new chain works. The first thing you should have done when it started smoking was take the bar off and visually inspect it for damage and check to see if the chain slides in the bar good. I'm not a pro but you still need to learn a little about chain maintenence. That chain was horribly dull and would smoke from not cutting. We all have to learn new things from time to time. Please tell us what you found out and is it working for you now?

Ya also gotta get a little thicker skin, These guys will help you but they like to joke with you too. It's all in fun mostly but when it comes to helping you, they will be there. like Philbert was going to drive accross county just to help. There a lot of others here that would do the same. Don't give up cause of the joking. Trust me, these dudes have helped me a slew of times.
 
Yeah, tired. Why make anymore posts? I will go the way of Andy and Thall, no reason to keep posting.......

I forbid it........Your blunt humor is required to balance out the force Master Fish. The reduction in Thall sightings has pushed us to the edge of silliness. I fear the shields can't take anymore......besides I still owe you a beer.:dunno:
 
My experience has been that good, knowledgable people are very difficult to find. Dealers, pick your brand of saw, are not perfect and some of them have no business even being in business. I cannot believe that the first dealer that the OP went to couldn't figure out that there was a problem, Stihl needs to be notified about that, very bad.

I haven't been at this forum very long, but I will say that this is one of the largest collections of good and knowledgable people that I have ever come across and I have learned a lot already, ready and willing to help out. In order to tap into other people's wisdom, you have to be teachable, pride kills. You have to provide all of the information and all of the clues if you want a problem solved, but be prepared for the answer because it just might be a teachable moment for you. Your pride might get bruised, but the problem got solved and hopefully you've learned something valuable.

Adam.
 
I wish the O.P. lived closer to me. We have an excellent relationship with our distributor, and I'm sure I could get it taken care of one way or another. Reference the above post, I am way more busy than usual (which is already 110%.) I do not have time to fool with shipping saws right now, and/or calling in favors from the distributor.

To the O.P. What do you think Stihl needs to do to make this right? New chain? New bar and chain? New saw? A Bugatti Veryon and a ride in the Stihl corporate jet? Give us a specific list of what and where you have already tried to rectify this, and what you want done. That is what I do from the back side of the counter. I listen, and then ask the customer how I can fix it. A replacement saw rarely ever happens above the $300 price point.

FWIW, a couple of Poulan WoodSharks (that admittedly got destroyed in rapid succession,) and a David BoatAnchor do not make someone a saw expert. All of the little Poulskyreds come with 3/8 LP semi-chisel safety chain on them. The DB probably has .404 or 1/2 semi-chisel or chipper on it. None of them will look like a good loop of big-boy 3/8 chisel chain, even when they are all sharpened properly. I have to wonder if the Poulans died from the chain falling off. Those oil pumps are plastic and can melt if they get hot enough. The chain on a modern saw at operating RPM travels around the bar approximately 10 times per second. If you even nick a rock or the ground, you have dulled every cutter before you even see the sparks. Also, the chain should be loose enough to roll over by hand. You need to lift up on the bar tip when you tighten it. If you cannot roll the chain over with an un-gloved hand, something is wrong.
 
Congratulations Saw Dr! Hope your family is doing well!

Not going to comment a lot on all the things said in this topic because it seems both parties made 'pretty basic' mistakes. We know just a little part of the story so hard to judge who is to blame for it all. Good the OP has found another dealer and hopefully he'll be helped now. I am curious if the problem is solved so I hope the OP lets us know. And hopefully he'll see over time that this has nothing to do with Stihl (and he shouldn't have named the topic like that or blame Stihl as a brand, and he would have prevented some rather direct/unfriendly posts here).

So OP, keep us posted please!
 
Maybe I missed it but did the new chain solve the problem?

Well, if we ever get the answer to that question then will pretty much have the answers to all the rest.

I'll give him the benefit of the doubt, but it will be interesting to see if he will stop back and fill us in if the chain was the issue.
 

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