Finally,for the first time i got to use 3 saws to cut firewood!!! Man how nice it is, to run 3 saws,and not have to refuel OR SHARPEN OR CHANGE CHAINS on any of them....used all 3 saws,till out of fuel,and the wood was all cut.................028 with 18" .325 rm chain,ms361 with 20" 3/8 rm chain,044 with 20" bar rm chain................YEE HAW!!
love a 3 saw woodcutting combo
- Thread starter demc570
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msvold
ArboristSite Operative
I hear you. Love taking three saws when I go cut. I've got twenty wooded acres I'm slowly clearing. 372XP for felling and main trunk, then limb with 550XP and have 359 for back up of either or when the 372 is out of gas. I usually don't take fuel with me - on occasion I've ran back to the garage for quick file and fuel, but usually, if I still have daylight, I'll start splitting when the saws are out of fuel, then tackle more the next time I've got time to go down.
Cheesecutter
Addicted to ArboristSite
I like the 3 saw attack myself. My 2159 may not be my favorite saw, but it gets the most trigger time because it's a handy all around saw. The 562 is taking over that spot, but the 2171 is still my favorite.
mainewoods
Addicted to ArboristSite
Ported NE346xp - the other 2 doesn't matter.
Jonsered 2152 with a 16'' bar, Husky 359 with a 20'' and a husky 371 with a 24''. They all have their place.
tom reinbolt
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Love the trifecta--my WoodBoss is too big for all day work--but the Husky 435 and MS211 do most of the work. The 435 has cut about 20 cords of wood so far--and still goes strong. A new chain is $20 at Lowes--I can get 3-4 solid days work with each chain. I never seem to get that edge back with sharpening--so I toss it and buy a new one.
I know this is wasteful--any thoughts????
I know this is wasteful--any thoughts????
autoimage
ArboristSite Operative
I hear ya im at the point where I use the 70cc for everything
Cutting wood is kinda like golf in a sense..bring a club for every situation. I pack a 192C..260Pro..440..066 to every scrounge I go on because if I don't get the wood then and there someone else will. I also like the flexibility of having a 14-18-25-32" bar lengths .
well,if i were you,and had the time,i would learn to hand file.......i taught myself,i use stihl file and the file guide cost i think less than 20.00 new at any dealer,it just piece metal that slides on the round file,...i have one for each 3/8 and .325 chains.....they have the angle on them,so you match the angle with the cutter {the angle is a line in the middle of the file guide,which you visually hold to the chain/bar and keep that same angle} .....i started with half strokes,and when that side of the whole chain is done,i turn the saw around, switch to opposite side of cutter i take the guide off and turn it around....it takes some time,so be patient,and wear gloves or you can cut yourself.....and yes i have........another trick is find first cutter that is the worse,and file that one first and count the strokes it takes to get it sharp==then that is how many i try to sharpen the rest===that makes them all unified for me==so say it takes 10 strokes on the worst cutter==then thats how many the rest will get,even if they are sharp before then!....take your time,and if your tossing them anyway,theirs nothing to loose!!!i cant speak for other chains,but i use the stihl rs and rm chains,and this method works great for me,they are usually sharper,after i file them,then they were out of box....as far as chains go there are alot of good info in other threads,i just stuck with stihl,and the stihl files which works well for me........good luck.....have fun.......o and another tip=when iam close to having the cutter i working on is almost sharp or 2nd to last 2 strokes i hold up pressure to the cutter=you can [with a good table light] see a thin piece of metal edge starting to flake off=thats what i like to watch for.......o and i leave the chain on the saw,and use a block of wood to hold up end of bar,to stable saw.2x4 block...=file,file guide,bright table light,gloves,block of wood and patients! i hope this helps you,it works for me.......any other questions i try to help or others may chime in.......o and when you get that down there is also the rakers,(they are between the cutters i use a flat file and gauge to make sure they are not taller than your cutters,some guys file them down alot,i dont),that you have to touch up with every so often,i dont do it every time on my style of chain,i do it maybe every 3rd or so filing depending....good luck!!
Got a 391, 460, and 660. I'm looking to sell the 391 and get a Masterminded 260.
I currently have the 660 wearing a 25" w/a 8 pin and the the 460 wearing a 20" w/a 8 pin. There's no way to slow these things down.
I currently have the 660 wearing a 25" w/a 8 pin and the the 460 wearing a 20" w/a 8 pin. There's no way to slow these things down.
jerry quinn
Proud dad of a US Marine.
I also go with a tri-fecta. Kinda old school though. Poulan 4000 20in., Craftsman 3,7 18in., Poulan 3400 16in. The 4000 is the newest saw I have ever used. I sure look at the new ones, but still go back to green.
my uncle who logs,likes to run ms660 with 25" bar also.......i bet its a screamer,and wont bog down.....some day i will have another one
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44, 262, and either the 61 Husky or my 156 Efco! Big stuff is the 79 cc Dolkita. Can't beat Em!!
Back at the pile my MM'd 310 Stihl.
Back at the pile my MM'd 310 Stihl.
rdtreewalker
arboristsite window licker
Pole saw, 268xp and ported 395xp. The 395 usually gets to sit and watch lol
It's crazy fast with the 8 pin!
I have a 36" w/7 pin also, but there's not a lot of call for what I do.
