As far as peak hp, most companies rate it by measuring the amp draw when the tool is stalled and converting it. It means nothing about real world use. It's basically startup current on the motor.
Doesn't a stalled collector motor short circuit and thus draw theoretically unlimited current causing either the motor to burn up or the hopefully correct wall socket fuse to pop?
I might be wrong, just saying.
I have a wall socket current meter and some of the power tools I tested showed higher then rated current upon start-up , lower then rated current once running without load , and about the rated current running under load.
When the electric power tool is being overloaded it will draw much higher then rated current and heat up quickly - what brings us back to the motor stalling point.
All electric power tools I have feature mono phase/220 Volt collector motors.
An electric chainsaw features higher torque then a similarly kW rated 2-stroke chainsaw and it pretty much runs at a constant rpm.
I grew up with a Sachs-Dolmar 285 electric saw rated 1300W and a Sachs-Dolmar 105 2-stroke saw rated 1.7 kW (40cc).
The 105 does feature higher chain speed due to higher rpm's , but I clearly remember that the 285 had the upper hand on torque and could be pushed much harder (being the cause of the plastic housing giving up during hours of log bucking).
Both where set up with the same interchangeable bar & chain combo, 3/8" Low Profile safety chain & 14" bar.
I for one would not mind having a running electric saw again as I find myself often pulling out my PS-6400 to cut stuff the deceased 285 would have handled equally well.
Once I hopefully successfully reassemble my little 105 I will have a "small" saw for any odd quick jobs and/or cutting small stuff where the PS-6400/7900 are just pure overkill.
Electric chainsaws are cool power tools , as long as one doesn't expect them to perform like a ported 90+cc 2-stroke chainsaw! 
