FarmerTec Huztl MS660 Updated Build Kit - Build Thread

Arborist Forum

Help Support Arborist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
I'd also like to chime in and say thank you for all the threads and videos on these kit saws.

My first......and second....kit arrived yesterday. MS440 and MS660. Going to build the 440 first and then the 660. Last night I got the crank installed in the crank case halves. Had a little trouble with them not dropping in as easy as I expected after baking for 15 minutes at 240 degrees in the oven, but I got it together with a little extra manipulation.

So far I'm very happy with the kits and am looking forward to getting them running!

FYI on shipping, ordered on Huztl site and used paypal. Shipped to WA. Ordered the ms440 on 2/25 and the ms660 on 2/27. Both arrived on 3/7. So 10 and 8 days transit time.

Again, thanks to everyone who has shared helpful information about building these kits.

David

I think you'll like the 440 kit. Mine came with the big bore (52mm). I ended up removing the base gasket, ported/matched, and removed the muffler baffles. Lots of power! I like it better than the 660. I'd say they are within 1/2hp from each other, but the 440 is 2.5 lbs lighter.
 
Thanks. Mine came with standard (50mm bore). I am expecting I will use the 440 quite a bit more than the 660. Will start with standard bore....may upgrade later. Will see.
 
Well I'm back from the dead. Finally got my mityvac and was able to pressure test the cylinder that got fried. Didn't take long to find an air leak.

Turns out the intake elbow cracked where it connects to the cylinder. Which is rather upsetting bc I spent $45 on an OEM one specifically for the durability of OEM lol since this was a major leak, I am unable to confirm at this time if I had any base gasket leaks but I'm leaning towards no.

Thoughts on this issue and how to avoid in the future?
 

Attachments

  • IMG_1766.JPG
    IMG_1766.JPG
    807.2 KB · Views: 33
  • IMG_1767.JPG
    IMG_1767.JPG
    816.5 KB · Views: 37
Alright. Correction. I was able to vac test the cylinder and it held 10 in mercury for over 2 minutes. So seems like the issue was a poorly tuned carb and the cracked intake elbow yes?
 
Well I'm back from the dead. Finally got my mityvac and was able to pressure test the cylinder that got fried. Didn't take long to find an air leak.

Turns out the intake elbow cracked where it connects to the cylinder. Which is rather upsetting bc I spent $45 on an OEM one specifically for the durability of OEM lol since this was a major leak, I am unable to confirm at this time if I had any base gasket leaks but I'm leaning towards no.

Thoughts on this issue and how to avoid in the future?
Wow. You know, you did all you could do there. I would think the clamp was in some way responsible. They are not as finished as a oem clamp. I am sure you had the manifold seated properly so the clamp had to have cut it. Those manifolds last decades. Dang that is surprising

The manifold was the failure, that's all it took

http://thechainsawkitguy.com Kit info
 
Wow. You know, you did all you could do there. I would think the clamp was in some way responsible. They are not as finished as a oem clamp. I am sure you had the manifold seated properly so the clamp had to have cut it. Those manifolds last decades. Dang that is surprising

The manifold was the failure, that's all it took

http://thechainsawkitguy.com Kit info

It is both satisfying and infuriating knowing that the cylinder didn't leak a peep. Satisfying because it justifies my assembly. Infuriating because even though I did everything correctly, a broken hose ended my saw. Well now I can get started breaking it down and seeing if the crank is salvageable.
 
It is both satisfying and infuriating knowing that the cylinder didn't leak a peep. Satisfying because it justifies my assembly. Infuriating because even though I did everything correctly, a broken hose ended my saw. Well now I can get started breaking it down and seeing if the crank is salvageable.
Building gives us great insight. Troubleshooting is a little different because we have different variables. It was my belief that we will catch up with the guys that have been saw mechanics much longer, faster. If we pay attention and work hard. That is a valuable lesson, yet painful, very painful. If you step back and think about this journey and your steps before and after, you would be hard pressed to convince me you do not feel empowered. If you took your trimmer in for service and the guy did not shot straight with you, you would know it. Lol

You trouble shoot your own problem! I love this

http://thechainsawkitguy.com Kit info
 
Building gives us great insight. Troubleshooting is a little different because we have different variables. It was my belief that we will catch up with the guys that have been saw mechanics much longer, faster. If we pay attention and work hard. That is a valuable lesson, yet painful, very painful. If you step back and think about this journey and your steps before and after, you would be hard pressed to convince me you do not feel empowered. If you took your trimmer in for service and the guy did not shot straight with you, you would know it. Lol

You trouble shoot your own problem! I love this

http://thechainsawkitguy.com Kit info
Yep. All in all I'm pleased with the saw, even if I need a rebuild already lol guess it's back to the stihl dealer to order up a new manifold and maybe this time I'll grab the OEM clamp too
 
That will get the job done. :yes::chop:

Tested it this morning and still had a vacuum leak along the flywheel side of the cylinder. Slower, but a leak nonetheless.

I think it is gasket related.

I've rebuilt over 50 saws, removing base gaskets when able. The only 2 that I've had issues with are both huztl 660s.
 
Yep. All in all I'm pleased with the saw, even if I need a rebuild already lol guess it's back to the stihl dealer to order up a new manifold and maybe this time I'll grab the OEM clamp too
Do you recall the clamp should have 5mm of space between the closures. More and you damage the boot. I will put up a example in a minute. Also the head of the screw is best on the clutch side i think. the side that you can get to in any case.
boot.JPG


http://thechainsawkitguy.com Kit info
 

Without a gasket, piston hits. I cut a paper gasket from .015 paper. I'm still getting a slow leak at the same edge.

I bought a new tube of dirko and, still leaking there. Drops pressure over 5 minutes and a bubble occasionally with soap water over the spot.

I guess I'm going to pull the jug off and sand some on the base to square it up and remove some from the bottom edges to see if it's hitting where I cannot see.

Super frustrating. ..
 
Without a gasket, piston hits. I cut a paper gasket from .015 paper. I'm still getting a slow leak at the same edge.

I bought a new tube of dirko and, still leaking there. Drops pressure over 5 minutes and a bubble occasionally with soap water over the spot.

I guess I'm going to pull the jug off and sand some on the base to square it up and remove some from the bottom edges to see if it's hitting where I cannot see.

Super frustrating. ..
Pressure dropping after 5 minutes is fine. They just want 20 seconds of no movement.

air.JPG



http://thechainsawkitguy.com Kit info
 

Latest posts

Back
Top