Tell me about a Echo CS-680

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Money wasn't an issue when I got the 620. I got it for its stock performance and what people are getting out of them with mods. Also for its reliability. It fit the slot I was looking for, which was to be able do the majority of my cutting in effort to save my 288xp (which I absolutely love) for Big stuff. I wanted a medium saw that could fill in if the 288 spit some screws, which at this point it likes to do. The 620 can also do that pretty dam well. If you honestly think you need 70 cc to pull a 20" bar id go with the 372xp husky or wait for the echo replacement of the 680. Supposedly Dolmers 70+cc saw is also awesome but I have no first hand experience with it
 
I've owned a CS-6700 and two CS-670's. They are not overly impressive anyplace, heavy as well. Very well built saws but you would NEVER find yourself reaching for one if you had a Husqvarna 268/272 or 372XP. I sent all of mine down the road, gave the CS-6700 to my neighbor, put both CS-670's up on Ebay and shortly after the heavy and slow CS-800.

Echo has a few "home-runs" in the line up, but none of those saws are among them......IMHO.....Cliff
I have a Stihl MS 661 C M-Tronic on my bench that was just given to me by a logger to repair. He dropped about $1300 for it last year. Right now I imagine he would love to have on board your "heavy and slow" Echo CS-800 in order to get his job done. His hired hand backed over his rather new Stihl 661 C with a 15-ton skid loader and crushed it pieces.
 
I have a Dolmar 6100 and it is a GREAT saw. It will pull a 20" bar completely buried in hardwood with ease. I have heard they will pull s 24" equally well but I have never tried it.
However if money had not been an issue, I would have bought a 562xp.

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I really like my 680. Built like a tank and pulls a 24" in hardwood no problem. It is a bit heavy but good torque. I always pull the limiters and re-tune but my Echo saws have always been dead reliable. I prefer my 372xp (just seems more comfortable to run) but nothing negative at all about the 680. A nice simple saw that works every time.

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I really like my 680. Built like a tank and pulls a 24" in hardwood no problem. It is a bit heavy but good torque. I always pull the limiters and re-tune but my Echo saws have always been dead reliable. I prefer my 372xp (just seems more comfortable to run) but nothing negative at all about the 680. A nice simple saw that works every time.

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Brian, your Echo CS-680 saw will pull a lot more than a 24" bar. My CS-670 can pull a 32" bar, but I usually just run either a 28" or 3o" on it. Mine works every time also. Two thumbs up!
 
I exploited the CS-6700, CS-670's and CS-800 years before Echo came up with the CS-590/600/620 series. My intentions are NOT to come on here and bust on brands or models some folks are well vested in, proud of them, and/or really like them. Just putting up usable and accurate information as I know it to be from direct testing, so here goes.

Nothing at all wrong with the 670/680/800's but they lack professional features, like an inboard clutch and clutch driven oiler. The 800 also has a "goofy" rubber plug to remove to get to the mixture screws and didn't use the excellent round automotive style filter many other Echo saws are outfitted with.

All of them had decent power (torque), and cut OK. I found that none of them "lugged" all that well despite having decent low to mid-range power. They simply "fall" out of the good power easily, so I found myself keeping the rakers high to avoid the chains getting a real big bite in the cut. Once you realize the limitations and capabilities they're a fine saws, built like tanks and I'm sure they'll last many years if one keeps them in good tune and regular maintenance.

In comparison to a Husky Pro saw of equal cc, like my 268XP, there really is no comparison between it and the CS-6700/670's. It will out-cut them with ease and flat out SCREAMS at high rpms and pulls down pretty hard pushing it hard in big wood as well. My 268XP free revs "four stroking" nicely around 13,700rpms. Couldn't get any of the big Echo's even near that RPM leaning them out and trying to lean them up resulted in instant stalling against the clutch when you "push" them really hard. I also replaced the P/C on one of them and noticed some "odd" looking porting. I've seen a few threads here and there where some folks were able to make huge gains with those P/C's with specific porting and tight squish. Even so I'm not into all that and stick with stock saws with at most limiter caps removed and maybe opening up restrictive mufflers if/as needed. So from what I've seen with those saws, they are "older" designs and just OK.

The CS-590/600/620 series in contrast have excellent features, inboard clutch, clutch driven oiler, excellent anti-vibe, improved "ergonomics", and broad/smooth power curve with much greater power in the upper end of the RPM range. The power curve is strong enough and broad enough that you can push them pretty hard and not stall against the clutch. Just yesterday I but off a dozen Ash stumps down to ground level with my CS-590 and it never grumbled once no matter how hard I pushed it. It was outfitted with a brand new Oregon semi-chisel chain which really helped that scenario.

The CS-620PW that I purchased about a year or so ago is a flat "home-run" for a 60cc saw. Very strong power and I've ran bars on it as long as 28" without skip-tooth chains. It actually does quite well with a bar that big for a 60cc saw, but is a real screamer with a 20" bar and not too bad at all with a 24" bar on it. I'm hoping Echo at some point throws some of that deal into a 70-75cc chassis. When they do it will obsolete the CS-670/680's and probably the 800's as well........FWIW......Cliff
 
I built a 670 and it does well. I just used it to noodle some large maple rounds, it always gives me a grin. Used an 8000 carb with a slipper piston from a Husky 266/268 which uses the 12mm pin and is a half mm taller. The early 680 had the transfers in the piston crossed in the casting. I dont know if they kept that up, it was used to raise transfer port velocity for an engine breathing through the piston. The crossed piston uses one ring.

Slope advance ignitions have an infinite advance curve whereas the digital ignitions move the advance up and down depending upon rpm and load. Digital ignitions also have a cut out once a certain rpm is reached for warranty purposes. Echo publishes their advance curves in their shop manuals and technical Technical Data Specs. I believe this one has a 20mm intake. Echo will sell you the manual for like $5 and if your going to work on one you should have it anyhow.

Here is the data page that opens a pdf for the tuning info. Its towards the bottom, above the yes no question, https://www.echo-usa.com/Support-Help/FAQs
 
Brian, your Echo CS-680 saw will pull a lot more than a 24" bar. My CS-670 can pull a 32" bar, but I usually just run either a 28" or 3o" on it. Mine works every time also. Two thumbs up!
I don't doubt that a bit. It's a very good saw. Honestly, I normally use the 661 with 28" and longer bars. I pretty much gave my 680 to my buddy. He needed a better saw and didn't really have the cash to buy one. We normally cut together so I still run it. It's got very little run time on it but it's certainly getting better. Finally getting broke in.

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I have a CS 600p echo I love it it's a tork monster I have had it for three years no leaks starts right up echo all the way for me I used to be a husqvarna guy but that leak bar oil so bad I am sick of the mess my two cents for what it's worth.
 
I have a CS 600p Echo I love. It's a tork monster. I have had it for three years no leaks starts right up. Echo all the way for me, I used to be a husqvarna guy but that leak bar oil so bad I am sick of the mess my two cents for what it's worth.
I must admit that I have never had a bar oil leak with any of the Echo saws that I own. I cannot make that claim with any of the rest because many of those have all pooped oil one way other other.
 
My saw is a CS 600p with double dogs I have ran somewhat faster saws in my 50 years of cutting but most saws bog in a big oak but the echo just seems to hammer those cutters in like I said not the highest rpm but what matters is tork and it just keeps pulling. And starts right up hot or cold
 
The great thing about saws is that they don’t really cost all that much. So if you want to try the 680, do it and report back! Nothing wrong with a buy-and-try approach. You can always get some (or maybe even most) of your money back if you decide to sell a saw that is clean and well-kept.
 
Seems like you hear a lot of talk about how saws aren't made the way they used to be....The 680 is a saw that is still built like they used to be....heavy, slower revving, plenty of low end torque, and built for the long run. Probably not the best saw for someone carrying one all day for a living and it paying for itself in a 6 months and being traded or trashed every few years, but more of a good all-around workhorse to use the heck out of and pass down to your children. I've owned and ran a couple of old 044's and I prefer the 680. I'm also running a Stihl 261 and a smaller echo with a guy running the Echo 620, and while the 620 is a much more modern saw, when it really comes down to bigger bars in bigger wood and longer run times, the 680 prevails. In reality it's simply stronger and cooler running. The air filtration is also unbeatable....absolutely! I always line the sealing surface with a little grease or bar oil and not a single fine makes it past in hours and hours of cutting. There's no pre-cleaner so it gets pretty dirty after a day of cutting. I'm sure it will soon be replaced by something faster and lighter with more plastic, and EPA barriers, maybe some new electronic controls that have to be troubleshot with a computer....all the things chainsaw guys like. I say buy this saw while it's still being produced.
 

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