Should a 372xp be able to bog and wet 12-20 inch Pine?

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It’s getting better. You can hear it at idle.

August, your chain is dull again.

You should be able to hold that saw in your right hand (on the rear handle ) and your saw should just fall through the wood munching contentedly as it goes..

Sharpen the cutters and take a couple of swipes off the rakers.
 
Well I guess that's the 'danger' @holeycow on a help thread when there is excessive writing with little order assured. Especially when site is not working properly and people can't flip between pages so easy. I started back a few pages last night and I seen a lot of premature celebration It appeared then back to square 1 now.
So I was able to go back further to P. 5 where you wrote low jet steps and I saw his response and tried to quote it forward but couldn't. The OP's response was to you asking if he tried to set the low jet per as your prescription was....
" I think it will only go one way"..LOL

and that was the end of that for some reason?

You let him of the hook I guess..lol

Which way? You can compensate for a huge manifold leak with a very rich low
It wont race but it will still run away on the high end if you can't bring it back enough. Not saying tjats happening but I'm not saying it's not? Yet to be tried.
Seafoam is good stuff but Im not a big fan of it on a chainsaw
For reasons mentioned and the bottom end protection is a build up over time.
 
Roger on the seafoam danger. Gotta have oil.

Yes. It’s been a mess of troubleshooting...

And I didn’t know that on the flaky manifolds.

Give that carb a good push when the saw is running August. Westboast knows..

Hey, and what’s wrong with premature eja... errr celebration? Woohooo!
 
That was funny.I started choking..lol
I've bought 3 new x-torq and converted then to the OE
I bought a few in GP on diff yrs as I got 30% off
through Spectrem when I with doing fall & burn.
So I would let my block thrower use them when I needed a
extra saw bucking.
 
That was funny.I started choking..lol
I've bought 3 new x-torq and converted then to the OE
I bought a few in GP on diff yrs as I got 30% off
through Spectrem when I with doing fall & burn.
So I would let my block thrower use them when I needed a
extra saw bucking. The manifold were a problem when they first
came out but depends who is running then sometimes. Any
floating carb you can move around to try and disturb the idle if you are having fluctuations.
I wouldn't go more that a turn to start on the low high doesn't matter as you are control it with the trigger so to speak.
I would likely start 1/2 from the limit.
My ported OE's are usually about 1 1/4 L
and anywhere from 1/2 left to closed right off with no limiters and non rev limit coil. Depends on the porting.
So if you want 30% off go to Northern Metallic in GP and say it's Spectrem cash account ..haha.
You will be out the door door in minutes..lol
 
I’ve seen 3. Two of which are mine.

One was a 7900 on a job somewhere. The fellow loved the saw, but had to keep a supply of spring mounts, because one of them was weak. I forget which one.

I am not counting the ugly green ones I have seen occasionally in a store somewhere. Or the newer, ugly orange ones I have seen a couple or three of.
 
I’ve seen 3. Two of which are mine.

One was a 7900 on a job somewhere. The fellow loved the saw, but had to keep a supply of spring mounts, because one of them was weak. I forget which one.

I am not counting the ugly green ones I have seen occasionally in a store somewhere. Or the newer, ugly orange ones I have seen a couple or three of.
I like my 6400 alot. Alot
 
Wait till you get that 372 running properly
Well that remains to be seen I know the guy ran the piss out of that saw because he told me he cut up a root ball with it that's why the chain was so tore up it might have to get rebuilt
My only complaint about the dcs6421 is that the stupid thing leaks Bar Oil all the time
 
Did anyone else look closely at his new chain? I think it's 90% of the problem.
That goofy safety sally super low kick back chain isn't doing you any favors. That's the type of chain that comes on new home owner saws for limbing, there's giant pieces between the cutters, that stuff sucks for bucking wood. I bought one once for my saw as it was all the hardware store had, it was useless in wood bigger than 6 inches.
 
Did anyone else look closely at his new chain? I think it's 90% of the problem.
That goofy safety sally super low kick back chain isn't doing you any favors. That's the type of chain that comes on new home owner saws for limbing, there's giant pieces between the cutters, that stuff sucks for bucking wood. I bought one once for my saw as it was all the hardware store had, it was useless in wood bigger than 6 inches.
Yes everyone knows. This Thread is several pages long at any rate the original chain on the original 28 inch bar was even worse at least this is a brand new chain and Bar that's not the problem here this is just a gutless extra turd and it has been either beat on badly never broke in properly or needs to be completely rebuilt 120 PSI compression is too low.
 
I don't want to argue but your not getting my point, your new chain is the worst cutting chain you can buy, its not just low kick back chain but the one with the completely extra huge humps in between the cutters. It's no wonder they were 10 bucks no one wants that chain on their saw.
This was never brought up in this thread, I read the whole thing before posting, I think guys missed it, it's hard to see without making the video full sized.
Im not saying that's all that's wrong with the saw but its slowing it down for sure.
Here's your video with the new crappy chain, it shouldn't have the extra depth gauges, they cause the chain to plug up with chips in larger wood.

 
I don't want to argue but your not getting my point, your new chain is the worst cutting chain you can buy, its not just low kick back chain but the one with the completely extra huge humps in between the cutters. It's no wonder they were 10 bucks no one wants that chain on their saw.
This was never brought up in this thread, I read the whole thing before posting, I think guys missed it, it's hard to see without making the video full sized.
Im not saying that's all that's wrong with the saw but its slowing it down for sure.
Here's your video with the new crappy chain, it shouldn't have the extra depth gauges, they cause the chain to plug up with chips in larger wood.


No i get it. Ill switch chains but all i have is a skip tooth oregon.
Ill run it again till all the seafoam gas is done and run a comp test then probably order some caber rings and tear it down and rebuild it. I think it has ok power but its certainly not amazing .
 
Yes he sacked it. Those rings got no springs.
I was thinking it had 140 psi for some reason although that's still shows damage.

I personally would just put the rings in it and call it a day.
Bottom end was getting oiled. It certainly wasn't straight gased.
I was trying to figure out if you had any other contributing issues. Now would be the time to figure out. Like is the saw responsive to the idle screw and when you turn it up is the low jet responsive also ?
 
Yes he sacked it. Those rings got no springs.
I was thinking it had 140 psi for some reason although that's still shows damage.

I personally would just put the rings in it and call it a day.
Bottom end was getting oiled. It certainly wasn't straight gased.
I was trying to figure out if you had any other contributing issues. Now would be the time to figure out. Like is the saw responsive to the idle screw and when you turn it up is the low jet responsive also ?
The low will change a little bit but you can only very it about a quarter of a turn and the high seems to have no effect
I can push in the limiter cap rings but I'm not going to I'm not going to adjust it at all when I doubt that that's the problem it's possible that the carburetor is gunked up but it's jesting it won't change that
 

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