Homemade seal puller

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I drill a small hole, thread in a self tapping screw (not too deep so as not to damage the bearing) and pull them out with dykes. Sometimes takes couple tries on stubborn ones but you stay away from the sealing surfaces this way.
 
I'm assuming he's trying to remove/replace seals without splitting the case. Bearings must still be good.
 
Yeah, I'm trying to avoid splitting the case. What I have is an 026 with a slight air leak and I've already checked the boot and impulse hose. I'm probably gonna sell it so I don't want to do a whole lot to it. I saw on here before a bunch of pics of homemade pullers but I couldn't find it. I was thinking of modifying a small screwdriver to slip in beside the small seal and jerk it out, I have new seals for it so I'm not worrying about damaging the old seals but I also don't want to scratch up the case. The seal on the clutch side is bigger so I'd just drill a hole in it and use the screw method to take that one out.
 
I asked because he was on the MacGyver bearing seal puller thread the other day looking at a few of the best options aside from buying the oem tool.
Drilling through a seal to do this is a very bad idea for obvious enough reasons that I don't need to waste my time explaining.

I followed the idea posted from a member on here a few years ago who ground the tip of a flathead screwdriver to match the oem puller tooth that grabs the seal. I tuned the idea up by using a round file on the back to concave it so it wouldn't rub against the crankshaft. It's actually faster and easier that the oem tool and just as safe on the saw. I smack the inside of the handle outwards and it pops them right out. 2016-03-30 05.09.40.jpg2016-03-30 05.10.07.jpg 2016-03-30 05.10.33.jpg
 
That was the tool I saw before. I had a different design in mind and may still try it, I was thinking about grinding on the side of the screwdriver blade with a dremel tool, making it so you could slightly twist the screwdriver to get behind the seal and pull it out. I'll have a pic when/if I do it. Right now I'm making a vac/pressure tester.
 
I agree that drilling is very risky. Not only are you likely to put metal shavings in the bearing, but your also likely to hit the bearing with the drill. This would be most problematic with a nylon cage.

I hate to be the bearer of bad news, but the 026/260 is one of the hardest to change seals on. The flywheel side seal is so tiny that it's hard to remove. Whatever you do, DO NOT damage the ID of the crankcase. Put sealant on the outside of the new seal and oil on the inside. Also, take not of the depth of the original before removing it.
 
026 flywheel side is the same as 034/036 and is same size or alittle larger than other seals in other machines. Not that difficult really. Removed many with a screwdriver.
 
Brad is correct. I ran into a 026 pro flywheel side seal last week that the Stihl factory puller would not pull. Had to drive it to the bottom and cut it with a chisel. The Stihl puller pulled the lip of that seal straight up all the way around and I even tapped it down to break it loose. Only seal I have ever seen that puller fail to pull.
 
I usually use a right angle pick. Go in by the crank under the rubber and pry up on the metal on the outer part of the seal.
 
Ok down to pulling the seal ( found the new seals again after losing them twice. Curse you CRS). I could see that I was goin nowhere really fast so ordered a lisle seal puller. looks like it will do the job . has anyone had any experience with this tool? seal tool.jpg
 
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