Premature bar wear mystery on new MS 661 C-M

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Are you drunk again?

What you said is flat out wrong. A properly lubricated bar and chain, the chain will become looser when running, not tighter.
*IF my chain started out slightly tight then no saw is going to properly lubricate my chain in heavy cutting. (especially an aggressive small ported saw) . It's just going to keep getting hotter & tighter until adjusted perfectly. That's a basic fact of cutting.
Didn't we just now have that conversation and it happened to you?


But nice try on the spin.
How predictable are you gamer

Anyone that hasn't experienced that must be greener than Kermit's çum
I couldn't even call 'em saw hands at best
 
*IF my chain started out slightly tight then no saw is going to properly lubricate my chain in heavy cutting. (especially an aggressive small ported saw) . It's just going to keep getting hotter & tighter until adjusted perfectly. That's a basic fact of cutting.
Didn't we just now have that conversation and it happened to you?


But nice try on the spin.
How predictable are you gamer

Anyone that hasn't experienced that must be greener than Kermit's çum
I couldn't even call 'em saw hands at best
You’re the one spinning.

He has a 661 with a 25 inch bar on it and you’re trying to tell us his chain will get tighter while running the saw and looser after he shuts it down if operated properly.

You‘re a fraud.

Fact.
 
You’re the one spinning.

He has a 661 with a 25 inch bar on it and you’re trying to tell us his chain will get tighter while running the saw and looser after he shuts it down if operated properly.

You‘re a fraud.

Fact.
Well no f*ing s**t the chain will loosen up when adjusted and oiled correctly you ****en troll
You are the one that just fell off the chichen truck. not I.
You got a few saws and you think you can step into my wheelhouse there troll?
Well do ya?
And yes troll,, bars cool down and chains get loose after a break following a good cutting section.
What the **** would you trolls no about it?
 
Whell not f*ing s**t the chain will loosen up when adjusted and oiled correctly you ****en troll
You are the one that just fell off the chichen truck. not I.
You got a few saws and you think you can step into my wheelhouse their troll?
Well do ya?
And yes troll,, bars cool down and chains get loose after a break following a good cutting section.
What the **** would you trolls no about it?
You sound like you’re about to start punching walls and sending out threatening PM’s again. You’re the tool bag that made the idiotic statement that his chain will tighten as he runs the saw, not me.

Own it.
 
You sound like you’re about to start punching walls and sending out threatening PM’s again. You’re the tool bag that made the idiotic statement that his chain will tighten as he runs the saw, not me.

Own it.
No you said that troll. and so did I as it does happen you f*cken game playing troll.
Just look back a few post if your memory is so poor.
What do you have, 10,000 post on this profile in 8 months and 10,000 on the last one in the same time plus all your other profiles.
That's your life. Isn't that right you Troll fraud?
 
No you said that troll. and so did I as it does happen you f*cken game playing troll.
Just look back a few post if your memory is so poor.
What do you have, 10,000 post on this profile in 8 months and 10,000 on the last one in the same time plus all your other profiles.
That's your life. Isn't that right you Troll fraud?
Spin, dance, dodge, deflect, lie, whatever you gotta do to cover up that you’re a fraud is fine with me.

Just more icing on the cake.

Here’s the facts. I told him to tighten his chain because it was too loose, especially cold.

You jumped in and said it would tighten when it heated up.

That’s flat out wrong with a bar and chain that’s properly lubricated.

You continue to say that the laws of physics are wrong, Stihl engineering is wrong, and everyone who has actually operated a saw is wrong.

Get help.
 
Not to derail the intriguing conversation about the laws of physics...
I wrecked a bar in similar fashion to the OP on my 394 husky when I first got it. it was an eye opening learning experience about high speed wear and powerful saws.
The saw was cutting crooked & I didn't have time to stop and figure out why, (had to get a load of logs on the road in a hurry) so I just muscled it into cutting straight... 40 ish cuts later, I had wore the bar groove on one side to the point the drivers rocked side to side in the groove a lot. It never threw a chain, but it wouldn't cut straight no matter what I did after that.
I was putting less sideways force than the weight of the saw, so I didn't think I was pushing hard enough to damage anything.
Nevertheless, cost me a bar... I have done this as a teenager countless times when I didn't know how to sharpen, but not on a saw that cut that fast, or had that much power.
The saw was running perfectly, oiler maxed on a 28" bar slinging oil fine. That saw oils a 42" without struggle in any wood.
It might be you subconsciously pushing to one side trying to correct for a few rocked cutters, it didn't take me much force, or very long to wreck my bar.
Could be the oiler. Maybe. Worth checking if there's doubt.
Could be crud in the bar rails.
hesitant to believe it is caused by a loose chain... that can cause problems, but it takes a long long time for a mildly loose chain to ruin parts.
As for the physics, I find mine is typically tight in the morning, and requires a few minor adjustments tighter throughout the day. Nothing major with a used chain.
Never gets loose when cold only tighter, but maybe that's just me.

I have to live by the laws of physics now since I don't have a reality stone at my command to alter materials expansion rate... so I don't know how it works for everyone else.

Thank you for your shared experience, it's very insightful and points out hazards of powerful saws. It's eerily like what I just went through with my MS661, we had the same logic while continuing to make few more cuts. I was the operator thus have some accountability. However, I just feel the oil system as set from the factory should have better protected the 25" bar during this short period of operation. I'm guessing if I'd upped the oil flow past the factory setting by driving in the oil control screw stop pin, I may have avoided the issue. Also, I did check the bar rails are clear.
 
It shouldn’t be sagging on the bottom like that, especially cold.
It gets tighter hot and loose when things cool.
Most chain throws happen after a short stop, like after a fuel up if you are not mindful of this
Here’s the facts. I told him to tighten his chain because it was too loose, especially cold.

You jumped in and said it would tighten when it heated up.

That’s flat out wrong with a bar and chain that’s properly lubricated.

.
There's the two post above.they are the facts liar. I was being a little vague and should have been a little more clear(not that that would matter to you but you sure love to twist things and take them out of context no matter how many times it's set out for you.
You say I said "it would tighten when it heated up"
No a said "it gets tight when it's hot"
And it will
That's to mean when the set up is generating
too much heat and fast. It's not caused by lack of oil but it's a hair tight for heavy cutting conditions. Loosen it slightly and it's go time
You post above that I interjected and go on to say, I say the slack will fix itself, basically.. and I'm all so wrong because that won't happen with a properly oiled chain. Well guess what?
The OPs chain was not a properly oiled chain by your own remarks. Haha
Yeah I was generally speaking anyway but you are whack boy.
After I'm done pouring the coals to her then the chain will loosen after the bar and chain cools (more often than not). As I said, .."It gets loose when *THINGS cool". I didn't say the chain. Maybe it gets colder by morning and sucks up a bit again but generally it's going to need a tighten. I know I have never ever showed up and had too loosen my chain and that includes 12 northern winters from 30 yrs.

If you quote me in your post then quote me word for word and don't change the context you troll weasel
Haha
 
Also to clarify, I think you’re under the assumption that the “E” spot is some special setting, it’s not. The pump still operates the same throughout all the range, it just puts out more oil the further clockwise you turn the control bolt. The “E” is nothing more than the most economical spot for whatever bar they designed that particular saw around. A “medium” output. If you think that you could throw any length bar on the 661, leave the setting on “E” and it will somehow automatically oil it properly, you would be wrong.

Stihl oilers are pathetically stingy now a days. I crank all my saws to max and don’t ever touch it. Like I said, it’s treehuggers that don’t want you splattering any bar oil on the forest ground.

I agree driving the pin in and upping the oil flow is best for any bar & chain. I've upped my 026 oiler & I will be increasing the 661 screw past "E". My argument is the new saw was setup (and operated) ready to use from the dealer and warranted as such.
 
I agree driving the pin in and upping the oil flow is best for any bar & chain. I've upped my 026 oiler & I will be increasing the 661 screw past "E". My argument is the new saw was setup (and operated) ready to use from the dealer and warranted as such.
I hear ya, but that adjustment isn’t only for bar length. Wood species vary, dry wood vs green wood, having the 25 inch bar buried in 32 inch hardwood for 3 tanks of fuel, etc. The dealer can’t predict what you will be cutting on any given day. It’s an “adjustment” for YOU to meet YOUR conditions. The dealer just puts the bar on and makes sure it’s oiling. Let’s the saw go with the “medium” or “E” pump output. The rest is up to you. They did nothing wrong.

I’d just chalk it up as a learning experience instead of passing the blame off on the dealer. Plus you have to drive a 130 miles, waste numerous hours to save a $100, which not to be nasty, is your fault imo.

If I were you, I’d go to a dealer close to home, buy a new bar and at least 2 chains, keep it adjusted and sharp, and don’t lean on the saw to compensate for a chain that needs sharpening. Make sure you don’t run out of oil before fuel after you turn up the oiler. My 661 is pretty damn close to 1:1 with the oiler maxed, so you need to be aware of this.
 
There's the two post above.they are the facts liar. I was being a little vague and should have been a little more clear(not that that would matter to you but you sure love to twist things and take them out of context no matter how many times it's set out for you.
You say I said "it would tighten when it heated up"
No a said "it gets tight when it's hot"
And it will
That's to mean when the set up is generating
too much heat and fast. It's not caused by lack of oil but it's a hair tight for heavy cutting conditions. Loosen it slightly and it's go time
You post above that I interjected and go on to say, I say the slack will fix itself, basically.. and I'm all so wrong because that won't happen with a properly oiled chain. Well guess what?
The OPs chain was not a properly oiled chain by your own remarks. Haha
Yeah I was generally speaking anyway but you are whack boy.
After I'm done pouring the coals to her then the chain will loosen after the bar and chain cools (more often than not). As I said, .."It gets loose when *THINGS cool". I didn't say the chain. Maybe it gets colder by morning and sucks up a bit again but generally it's going to need a tighten. I know I have never ever showed up and had too loosen my chain and that includes 12 northern winters from 30 yrs.

If you quote me in your post then quote me word for word and don't change the context you troll weasel
Haha
********.
 
Exactly what I do, I leave chain loose, then tighten before starting again.
Seen people put saws down after work, temperature drops below freezing at night,
engine couldn’t budge the chain the next morning, bearings flat spotted, then they wonder
why their saw gave up with such low hours.
Some people are better away from tools that need adjusted as required.
Well if you're worried about the tip freezing
then you bore through a tree or stump to dry out the tip at night and leave it there ..OR you bang and push it againts a log in the morning , multiply times and pin the trigger to break the tip free. The chain is not the issue here.

Unprofessional workmanship!
Under dispute!
"Rookieville"
 
that's actually when you bring it inside for the night and set it beside the bed...
 
Well if you're worried about the tip freezing
then you bore through a tree or stump to dry out the tip at night and leave it there ..OR you bang and push it againts a log in the morning multiply times and pin the trigger to break the tip free. The chain is not the issue here.

Unprofessional workmanship!
Under dispute!
"Rookieville"
Try again, buddy. Think metal contracting when cold. As in the chain got tighter. But you don’t believe in that. Lmao!
 
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