Chainsaw fuel

[BrettS]

I always use a semi synthetic low ash two stroke oil and 95 octane gas at 40:1 in all the two strokes I run, chainsaws, weed eater, lawn mower and have not had problems so far. With that being said, gas here is starting to get really expensive so am looking to use 91 octane.
I did read some years ago a paper that stated oil in fuel lowers the octane slightly, no idea if that still holds true.

 

[thenne1713]

May be I am just a dumb old trapper but I have put a lot of thought into condensation over the years.We ran a fishing resort for 49 years on the old outboard motors the tanks were pressurized thus no fuel pump.After use you unscrewed the cap part way to release the pressure.These tanks spent much of their life with the cap loose.These tanks were stored over the winter with what ever was in them with temps from -40 below to 90 above in the spring.I have left part cans of gas and many pieces of equipment partly filled in lots of cases for several years some plastic some metal no sign of water.
If condensation is such a problem then why when I drain a tank or a can threw a fine filter funnel there is no water unless the can had a hole and let water leak in.
If condensation is really a problem then should the can not fill up with the condensed water.
Kash

The majority of condensate problem, I suspect, occur underground/ aboveground bulk fuel tanks, probably because of the tank ATMOSPHERIC VENTS required by fire codes. While equipment fuel tanks used to be vented to atmosphere years back, they are all pretty well sealed w/ only vacuum relief today, so new air to tank only when equipment running? Even big tanks may now have some vapor seal for EPA that requires vacuum/ pressure to open?

 

[501Maico]

Worthless trivia. A 1970 Yamaha 350 would be an R5. I was a mechanic at a Yamaha dealer and worked on the R5's and RD350's. The biggest problem with the RD's was first time 2-stroke buyers. They would putter around and never wring em out. The crankcases would get loaded up and foul the plugs. What a look on their face when I showed them what "wringing out" meant, with the front wheel slightly off the ground and bellowing huge blue smoke trails.

Exhaust aromas. I ran Blendzall in my early race bikes and always had some left over. One of my chores was mowing the grass with dad's Toro push mower. Guess where the extra premix ended up? It sure did put a smile on my face!

 

[wanab]

I have noticed the XP oil has stabilizer in it and works well lasting over a year. It may not burn spotlessly clean and some folks knock it for that but from a lubrication standpoint it has been flawless with no buildup living up to it's JASCO rating. You can always buy the Husqvarna fuel @ lowes for $25/gallon. 95 octane for the FTW baby LOL!

 

[Mad Professor]

Good for you , so do i . Unfortunate that you flunked comprehension & diplomacy 101, my previous statement is correct & stands !

I've instructed mediocre students like yourself with poor attitudes toward learning. Most got Cs, but they they wanted a B just for being there.

 

[Canyon Angler]

Ethanol's octane rating is between 108-113. Take that 10% out of the fuel and you're left with around 91 octane

Wait. So if you remove the ethanol from 87-octane gasohol, it's going to RAISE the octane to 91??? (And if you add ethanol to -- supposedly -- 91 octane straight gasoline, you're going to LOWER the octane back to 87?)

Sumpin dun sound right about that.

 

[newforest]

I buy & mix no-E gas and Stihl’s HP Ultra 5 gallons at a time, 50:1 manufacturers suggested ratio. Though I put the German oil in the Swedish saws, don’t tell any one. Soon I will have the first XP sold by my shop to crack 1,000 hours on it.

When I near the end of a job and will be switching to a non-saw job for a while I buy one gallon at a time. Whatever small portion of the one gallon is left I keep till the next saw job. In between saw jobs, when I might run into a downed tree on the way home from backwoods Brook Trout hunting, I keep a can of one of the big 2’s pre-mix in the tool box instead of the one gallon can. When saw work starts up again I simply mix whatever is left from the pre-mix and the one gallon can and then buy a 5 gallon can full.

I like the idea of using Amsoil in my saws but will stick with the HP Ultra. I’m not into racing things or continually trying to re-engineer whatever a manufacturer does, for the most part. But I do run Amsoil in my truck though, which has 560,000 miles on it and just invested in a new set of fuel injectors for it as the rods are strong in the ‘00 7.3 and it is now just nicely broken in.

I absolutely will not breathe in AvGas saw exhaust however, even when working with a friend who buys it by the 55 gallon barrel and offers it to me free.

 

[Mad Professor]

2nd Class Stationary Engineer , Professor . So I believe I made the Grade . Your a real charmer , have you been told lately ? If not let me be the 1st .

2nd class for sure!!! And I believe you'd get a D grade.

Scientists think, engineers memorize, or drive trains.

So tell me, how does an Engineer, like you, know so much more about organic chemicals/chemistry than an PHD Organic Chemist?

 

[North by Northwest]

The majority of condensate problem, I suspect, occur underground/ aboveground bulk fuel tanks, probably because of the tank ATMOSPHERIC VENTS required by fire codes. While equipment fuel tanks used to be vented to atmosphere years back, they are all pretty well sealed w/ only vacuum relief today, so new air to tank only when equipment running? Even big tanks may now have some vapor seal for EPA that requires vacuum/ pressure to open?

Majority of problems with bulk storage tanks is that they are non insulated ! When subjected to thermal cycles ( hot & cold ) the fuel inside can become contaminated by condensation that can form on the tanks inner walls . When ethanol is stored outside in bulk , as you advised venting to atmoshere will severely increase the absorption of moisture to the fuel . Keeping tanks full and sealed when practical is the only real solution other than appropriate fuel stabilizer treatments . I had to add a quart of diesel fuel conditioner @ Deer Camp religiously for the fuel oil 900 litre storage tank seasonally. Your correct epa protocols are in place in commercial & industrial use to limit emissions to atmosphere by mechanical / engineering means . Benzene fume & vapours have always been an environmental / health risk .

 

[North by Northwest]

2nd class for sure!!! And I believe you'd get a D grade.

Scientists think, engineers memorize, or drive trains.

So tell me, how does an Engineer, like you, know so much more about organic chemicals/chemistry than an PHD Organic Chemist?

Never said I did , there you go assuming again Professor !

 

[North by Northwest]

I buy & mix no-E gas and Stihl’s HP Ultra 5 gallons at a time, 50:1 manufacturers suggested ratio. Though I put the German oil in the Swedish saws, don’t tell any one. Soon I will have the first XP sold by my shop to crack 1,000 hours on it.

When I near the end of a job and will be switching to a non-saw job for a while I buy one gallon at a time. Whatever small portion of the one gallon is left I keep till the next saw job. In between saw jobs, when I might run into a downed tree on the way home from backwoods Brook Trout hunting, I keep a can of one of the big 2’s pre-mix in the tool box instead of the one gallon can. When saw work starts up again I simply mix whatever is left from the pre-mix and the one gallon can and then buy a 5 gallon can full.

I like the idea of using Amsoil in my saws but will stick with the HP Ultra. I’m not into racing things or continually trying to re-engineer whatever a manufacturer does, for the most part. But I do run Amsoil in my truck though, which has 560,000 miles on it and just invested in a new set of fuel injectors for it as the rods are strong in the ‘00 7.3 and it is now just nicely broken in.

I absolutely will not breathe in AvGas saw exhaust however, even when working with a friend who buys it by the 55 gallon barrel and offers it to me free.

Yeah a lot of concerns within nuisance odours & excessive smoke . Which are valid , especially in confined areas . Thus the introduction of Group IV oils that significantly reduce visible smoke & odours . Downside leaner oil / fuel ratios increase the need for better engine maintenance , air / fuel filter cleaning & carburetor tuning & proper fuel storage .

 

[ammoaddict]

This thread has taken a turn for the worst. My apologies to the OP. Unsubscribing. Good day gentlemen.

Sent from my moto g(7) power using Tapatalk

 

[Mad Professor]

Never said I did , there you go assuming again Ass !

Your just an irritable Colon.

 

[North by Northwest]

Worthless trivia. A 1970 Yamaha 350 would be an R5. I was a mechanic at a Yamaha dealer and worked on the R5's and RD350's. The biggest problem with the RD's was first time 2-stroke buyers. They would putter around and never wring em out. The crankcases would get loaded up and foul the plugs. What a look on their face when I showed them what "wringing out" meant, with the front wheel slightly off the ground and bellowing huge blue smoke trails.

Exhaust aromas. I ran Blendzall in my early race bikes and always had some left over. One of my chores was mowing the grass with dad's Toro push mower. Guess where the extra premix ended up? It sure did put a smile on my face!

The only real issue had with my R5 was the need to decarbonize the exhaust baffles annually & repack them with a little steel wool to reduce the annoying rattles that was produced from time to time . I was accustom to the poor ignition system , since I previously owned a 69 Kawasaki Blue Streak H1-500 followed by a 72 H2-750 which thankfully had CDI ignition & front disc brakes ! Nothing like the smell of Bel-Ray in the morning , well maybe the sweet aroma of Klotz-R caster ! lol. P.S. ran a few Maico , a Bultaco - Sherpa !

 

[North by Northwest]

Your just an irritable Colon.

This thread has taken a turn for the worst. My apologies to the OP. Unsubscribing. Good day gentlemen.

Sent from my moto g(7) power using Tapatalk

The op has already endorsed the additional enlightenment ammoaddict chill already . However , yes the professor has become a tad anal my appolgy !

 

[OM617YOTA]

@bryannewton Please do a lot more research and reading on this subject, and don't make any decisions based on the responses in this thread alone. A lot of what's been posted is opinion, being presented as fact, and doesn't necessarily match reality.

Don't take silence, or lack of posted disagreement with a post, as confirmation that someone is right. It's just not worth getting into a wall of text debate over an oil thread, when the exact same subject with the exact same people will come up again next week.

Most of it doesn't matter anyway.

1. Run an oil and fuel/oil ratio that meets mfg specs.
2. Keep your fuel fresh. If in doubt, dump it and get fresh fuel.
3. LEARN TO TUNE YOUR SAW, and tune it for whatever you're running.

Don't take my word for any of this, either. Do more research, and verify.

 

[ShermanC]

Do yall mix your own or buy premixed fuel
If you mix your own how long is it good for

I mix Stihl Ultra Premium with 89 octanes and it is always dependable. Depending on our workload I use 10 to 12 gallons of fuel mix a year.

 

[North by Northwest]

I always use a semi synthetic low ash two stroke oil and 95 octane gas at 40:1 in all the two strokes I run, chainsaws, weed eater, lawn mower and have not had problems so far. With that being said, gas here is starting to get really expensive so am looking to use 91 octane.
I did read some years ago a paper that stated oil in fuel lowers the octane slightly, no idea if that still holds true.

Some oil effectively increases the fuels energy during combustion in a properly tuned engine .

 

[Matt Schmitt]

I have noticed the XP oil has stabilizer in it and works well lasting over a year. It may not burn spotlessly clean and some folks knock it for that but from a lubrication standpoint it has been flawless with no buildup living up to it's JASCO rating. You can always buy the Husqvarna fuel @ lowes for $25/gallon. 95 octane for the FTW baby LOL!

For some that is just not cost effective. I’m lucky enough to have the e free at the pump for 4.29 a gallon currently. Once I add the saber I’m more a gallon but I bet it’s less than a dollar extra.

 

[BrettS]

Worthless trivia. A 1970 Yamaha 350 would be an R5. I was a mechanic at a Yamaha dealer and worked on the R5's and RD350's. The biggest problem with the RD's was first time 2-stroke buyers. They would putter around and never wring em out. The crankcases would get loaded up and foul the plugs. What a look on their face when I showed them what "wringing out" meant, with the front wheel slightly off the ground and bellowing huge blue smoke trails.

Exhaust aromas. I ran Blendzall in my early race bikes and always had some left over. One of my chores was mowing the grass with dad's Toro push mower. Guess where the extra premix ended up? It sure did put a smile on my face!

Back when I was younger I used to mess around with model airplane engines, I used to put some of the airplane fuel in my Kawasaki KV100 two stroke motorbike, lovely smell.