Chainsaw fuel

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No way. 84 octane and you'll be having detonation.

100LL unmixed stores many years, they do that for aircraft. In my hands 100LL mixed is good > 2 years.

Only been running 2-strokes since the 1970s, never an oil/fuel related problem inside engine.

With E10 carbs started crapping out if they sat with some, but I never ran any in my 2-strokes. Old tractors and other 4-strokes the carbs (aluminum) started rotting with E10. It makes a snot like substance that eats aluminum/magnesium, partially because of it's affinity for water. In 2-strokes that causes phase separation and seizeing.
Never said use Regular Grade (84 octane) fuel in saws , only referenced it in comparison to mid grades & premium gasoline as to shelf life before phase separation occurred and hydro carbon & butane contents diminish . These are real world documented numbers . AV. 100ll gas has MTT butane suppression additives & Sunco 260 T has butane additive package also to suppress the flash off of various hydrocarbons & butane in storage of just over one yr for 100ll & 9 mths for 260 T. Hope this. clearly clarifies my previous statement . This shelf life can easily be further reduced in hotter ambient temps or where storage containers are not sealed properly . :crazy2:
 
May be I am just a dumb old trapper but I have put a lot of thought into condensation over the years.We ran a fishing resort for 49 years on the old outboard motors the tanks were pressurized thus no fuel pump.After use you unscrewed the cap part way to release the pressure.These tanks spent much of their life with the cap loose.These tanks were stored over the winter with what ever was in them with temps from -40 below to 90 above in the spring.I have left part cans of gas and many pieces of equipment partly filled in lots of cases for several years some plastic some metal no sign of water.
If condensation is such a problem then why when I drain a tank or a can threw a fine filter funnel there is no water unless the can had a hole and let water leak in.
If condensation is really a problem then should the can not fill up with the condensed water.
Kash
 
May be I am just a dumb old trapper but I have put a lot of thought into condensation over the years.We ran a fishing resort for 49 years on the old outboard motors the tanks were pressurized thus no fuel pump.After use you unscrewed the cap part way to release the pressure.These tanks spent much of their life with the cap loose.These tanks were stored over the winter with what ever was in them with temps from -40 below to 90 above in the spring.I have left part cans of gas and many pieces of equipment partly filled in lots of cases for several years some plastic some metal no sign of water.
If condensation is such a problem then why when I drain a tank or a can threw a fine filter funnel there is no water unless the can had a hole and let water leak in.
If condensation is really a problem then should the can not fill up with the condensed water.
Kash
You never slant your stove oil fuel tank to ensure dirt & condensation would not foul you oil filter and freeze in the winter ? Come on I know a smart old trapper from North of Thunder bay has experienced the dew point effect on condensation during thermal cycles . P.S. The metal fuel tank overall surface area was to small to produce sufficient condensation for you to notice . Alcohol blended efuel on the other hand has an affinity to moisture sucks it right out of the air if storage tanks are not full and sealed !
 
My small engines, as a small engine mechanic, all get ethanol free fuel from outside of MA (not available anywhere at the pump except airports) premixed with Amsoil Saber at 100:1. I still have 130 PSI COLD compression on my 19 year old Echo SRM-210 weedwhacker. Also running the same overworked Husqvarna 140 saw for 19 years as well.
 
I catch crap for this every time but I use amsoil saber at 80:1 and e free Sunoco gas. Been running since 2016 haven’t had a failure yet. Plus it has a built in stabilizer so I never really worry about how long it’s in the can. Buy all means you can run it at 50:1 also but it’s rated at 100:1 I just don’t have the balls to run it there. All my saws have very minimal carbon build up and cranks have not been an issues at all. Only saws I do t run at this mix is my ported 395. It would probably be fine but just going off the builders recommendations I have not run it at this ratio.
I bought a one-owner Stihl 090g last year(the guy said he just got too old for that saw at 83!). The guy was a Stihl dealer and bought it new in 1978 and ran nothing but Optifuel in it and all his 2-strokes he owned and sold.The piston and ring look shiny and new and compression at 155psi. I will admit-I just don’t have the balls to take that plunge.
 
So 100:1 sabre is safe to run in saws not 50:1
Saber was originally recommended at 50:1 to 100:1 ratio's , for all handheld air cooled 2-stroke engines ! Not 40:1 , 32:1 , 24:1 or 16:1 . I have used it for yrs in various woods ported saws @ 44:1 for extra bearings insurance no issues with lack of oil .
 
Has any one use seafoam and stabil together before
Never , I have found that "Startron" is a much better fuel stabilizer . Originally found it at Wal-Mart in their RV isle . Availble for both Gas & Diesel applications , stabilizes fuel for up to 24 mths . I use Seafoam more as a spot fuel system cleaner . Also very efficient at removing oil sludge within the oil system ( pan & galleries) when 4 oz added to engine oil 100 mile prior to your next oil change . Also as a air intake plenum fogger / cleaner when added to the brake booster vacuum line with engine at high idle , half a can slowly added within 2- 3 minute does a fine job of improving rough idle , sluggish acceleration and increased fuel mileage in older engines !
 
I had always heard the metal cans were worse with temperature change and condensation. In the humid air here gas starts sucking up water quick, especially if the can sits in the back of your truck overnight.
During firewood season I’ll run non e pump gas with red armor but I switch to canned in the off season and it’s completely stopped carb issues from storage. Well worth it knowing it’ll start right up whenever I need it. I’m still looking for a close by non ethanol station, that website only has them in south Jersey.
Unless one is opening the lid a lot and/or leaving it open, a well-closed lid keeps the humidity out.
 
So 100:1 sabre is safe to run in saws not 50:1
You can run whatever you want, but the recommended ratios for Saber Professional are 80 & 100:1. I've had zero issues running at 100, so I stick with it. Everyone has different opinions on that. The bonus of that is virtually zero carbon built-up anywhere in the engine (even in the exhaust port), zero smoke when warm, and much less oil usage. I have customers that run it that are afraid to go leaner than 50:1, and it works fine. IMO, it'll work better at 100:1. :)

I also run Saber in my paramotor engine - a 190cc high performance 2-stroke with an expansion chamber exhaust (about 26 HP). That I mix at 66:1, based on the advice of a fellow aviator who has been doing it much longer than I, with far more units that he owns (runs a paramotor school in northern LA on the AR border). That's the number he gave me, so I stick with that. That's the only time I mix richer than 100:1 with this oil. Definitely MUCH more messy at this ratio vs. 100:1.

Almost forgot about my oil injected '74 Yamaha RD350 - that gets Dominator, only because I don't think the pump can handle Saber's viscosity. Dominator works great in this application - just alot more black spooge coming out the pipes and seams. I don't run E-free in that because it's impractical, so I've got in the practice of shutting off the fuel petcock at a predetermined distance from my house, and coasting into my driveway on full choke. Haven't had an issue in years, with zero fuel additives either.

11B1CC68-BFCF-434D-8DA0-490F218AE82C.jpeg
B4E38D7D-73CC-4AB2-83F4-58ABF8853E7E.jpeg
 
.... ....

Here's a link to will help find non-ethanol gas in the US and Canada.
https://www.pure-gas.org/
Just a note on this site. It is an excellent resource for finding ethanol free fuel, BUT, in states like MA, in which it is presumably illegal to sell (I figure, since NOBODY sells it at ANY pump along any roadway) at any pump outside of an airport, every listing is a powersports or OPE (Outdoor Power Equipment) dealer, boat dealer, hardware or home improvement store or chain, or a gas station store selling it in 5 gallon pails, half gallon, or quart race fuel containers.

In states where you can find E-free fuel at a pump, most of the listings will be actual gas stations. I wish that site would make a note of this. I got into a blistering argument with someone calling me a liar, and that I didn't know what I was talking about, an spreading "misinformation" (where have I heard THAT before?) over this on some forum years back. It was comical.
 
Saber not Sabre not sure how spelling got mixed up lol even I spelt it that way in the thread.
You're right! I did the same. Without having the stuff right in front of me, I forgot! :laugh:

Now I've got to go back and edit my posts. OCD is kicking in ...

Now while on this subject, I just checked Amsoil's website, and they've changed the "SABER Ratio" from 80 & 100:1, to only 100:1. Interesting!
Screen Shot 2021-10-29 at 1.38.37 AM.png
 
You're right! I did the same. Without having the stuff right in front of me, I forgot! :laugh:

Now I've got to go back and edit my posts. OCD is kicking in ...

Now while on this subject, I just checked Amsoil's website, and they've changed the "SABER Ratio" from 80 & 100:1, to only 100:1. Interesting!
View attachment 937792
Originally , Saber was rated @ 50:1 to 100:1 . It was changed to 80:1 to 100:1 when they renamed it to " "Saber Professional " I'll have to check the spec's on the 100:1 only l
 

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