Chainsaw fuel

[Goinwheelin]

If you run the machine enough, sure it will likely be OK. Let it sit for a period of time, and you're in for a treat.

So, your choices here are to treat it, or just use ethanol free fuel. I choose the latter, and to me it's worth the extra cost to know that my genetators, saws, etc. will always start (no matter how long they sit).

I’ve had them (trucks) sit for 6 months to a year before and no issues. Mowers and generators have sat over winter without problems. Now if we are talking well over a year or more of sitting then I agree.

 

[North by Northwest]

If you run the machine enough, sure it will likely be OK. Let it sit for a period of time, and you're in for a treat.

So, your choices here are to treat it, or just use ethanol free fuel. I choose the latter, and to me it's worth the extra cost to know that my genetators, saws, etc. will always start (no matter how long they sit).

Regular fuel has less than 60 day shelf life for peak performance before phase separation occurrs. I can smell the octane loss after 60 days !

 

[huskihl]

You realize Dominator is a Premix oil designed for 50:1 mix ratio for extreme service applications . Sabre actually is a much better oil application for routine homeowner saw , trimmer , blower usages with 50:1 - 100:1 ratios . I personally use Amsoil Interceptor in both injector or premix use for motor cycle & snowmobiles . I have witnessed dominator foul power valves in snowmobiles & carbon foul rings and heads in saws & bikes in recreation use . In high performance. high rpm & heat properly tuned racing application Dominator has proven beneficial , just saying fine oil but for critical service only bro !

Dominator burns considerably cleaner in a saw than saber does, just an FYI. The only drawback to it is it doesn’t have a fuel stabilizer in it

 

[muad]

Regular fuel has less than 60 day shelf life for peak performance before phase separation occurrs. I can smell the octane loss after 60 days !

I bet. I'm surprised it's 60 days. I heard it starts degrading after 30 days.

 

[North by Northwest]

Key word, "treated". efuel is junk in carbureted applications and absolutely will damage gaskets, seals, fuel lines, etc.


I call BS with higher octane hurting your engine. At the most you won't see peak performance in a non-modified saw.

I run mostly ported saws, but my stock saws get the same mix and run well. Same with my backpack blowers, weed wackers, etc.

We can argue all day, but I'll stick with what works for me. My local Stihl dealer buys all of their fuel from the same source and runs 100LL in all their stuff, too.

100LL is more readily available to me here than efree pump gas (and, price is probably not far off as the only local efree fuel around here is from marinas).

You do you, I'll keep on trucking with 100LL until my experiences change.

Of course "treated" everyone realizes the downside of corn based fuels . My point , that in most small engine 2 strokes when treated it pose's no detrimental effects . As to high octane performance benefits in a stock 2 stroke engine "Zero" ! 100ll burns slower due to its higher flash point , thus burns cooler causing unburned oil in the fuel charge , that leaves residual oil deposits within the combustion chamber , piston dome & rings . Long term higher compression , hot spots , ring sealing issues & eventual blowby . Yes use no efuel when possible in Ope equipment but still ensure its fresh & mixed within oil manufacturers! recommendations

 

[North by Northwest]

I bet. I'm surprised it's 60 days. I heard it starts degrading after 30 days.

No efuel 30 days , Regular 84-89 octane 60 days 100ll 6mths at best until octane diminishment is realized .

 

[muad]

No efuel 30 days , Regular 84-89 octane 60 days 100ll 6mths at best until octane diminishment is realized .

OK, I was talking about efuel, so that makes sense.

 

[North by Northwest]

I think I'm around 40:1. Whatever the little one gallon mix bottle holds filled to the very top (normally they are only filled 2/3 or so for a 50:1 mix).

2.6 oz = 50:1

 

[muad]

2.6 oz = 50:1

Correct, the the 2.6oz mark is only about 2/3 on the little bottles. Filling them to the top takes to to 3oz or so.

 

[North by Northwest]

I’ve had them (trucks) sit for 6 months to a year before and no issues. Mowers and generators have sat over winter without problems. Now if we are talking well over a year or more of sitting then I agree.

Automobiles are substantially more forgiving within efuel dedrigation . Untreated efuelnin a Ope long term is asking for problems . I repair small engines on a weekly basis , raced x-c bikes & snowmobiles semi professionally have witnessed 1st hand bad fuel , poor quality oil usage & shabby tuning results , not pretty ! A oz of prevention is worth a lb of cure & $$$$$ in unit loss !

 

[North by Northwest]

Correct, the the 2.6oz mark is only about 2/3 on the little bottles. Filling them to the top takes to to 3oz or so.

Ain't my 1st Rodeo !

 

[muad]

Ain't my 1st Rodeo !

Or, as my boss likes to say, "How old am I?!"
LOL

 

[North by Northwest]

Oh and I do agree somewhat on running the lower octane these saws don’t make super high compression ratio’s. And I’m not talking the compression when you do a compression check LOL. so you don’t necessarily need the high-octane but the only efree around me is 90 so that’s what I run. But I also don’t see how a little higher octane could hurt the motor.

Matt , most small engine manufacturers recommend 84-87 octane use for their engines , few others 87-89 , why because they engineer their engine components to operate within the optimization of that fuel at a certain operating pressure & temperature range . Alter that and you will diminish performance and long term potentially reliability . Simple as that , so why run high octane in a low compression engine with no appreciable performance gain ?

 

[Matt Schmitt]

Matt , most ***. manufacturers recommend 84-87 octane use for their engines , few other 87-89 why because they engineer their engine components to operate within the optimization of that fuel at a certain operating pressure & temperature range . Alter that and you will diminish performance and long term potentially reliability . Simple as that , so why run high octane in a low compression engine with no appreciable performance gain ?

I really prefer efree and that’s the main reason I run 90 simply because my Sunoco does not offer an e free in lower octane.

 

[mememe]

Seafoam. It works. Use a quality oil, Run all equipment at full speed, don't baby it, or the exhaust will gum up. Fuel goes stale in 30 days.
Only an additive can extend the life

 

[North by Northwest]

Dominator burns considerably cleaner in a saw than saber does, just an FYI. The only drawback to it is it doesn’t have a fuel stabilizer in it

Not in a stock saw application , that's why Amsoil has discontinued recommending Dominator in small hand held 2 stroke equipment . I'am a former District Dealer , & know that for a fact ! P.S. Sabre has a much greater emulsifier solvency additive package than Dominator.

 

[mememe]

I ran HP Injector for years in everything. Even though it was not recommended... Then I switched back to castrol / stihl oil. I found less carbon in the exhaust.

 

[Goinwheelin]

Automobiles are substantially more forgiving within efuel dedrigation . Untreated efuelnin a *** long term is asking for problems . I repair small engines on a weekly basis , raced x-c bikes & snowmobiles semi professionally have witnessed 1st hand bad fuel , poor quality oil usage & shabby tuning results , not pretty ! A oz of prevention is worth a lb of cure & $$$$$ in unit loss !

I agree. Just pointing out that technology has alleviated some of the issues with soft parts degrading because of E fuel, but neglect is neglect. Can’t fix stupid. I have two old chevys, one is for dump and scrap runs, and the other plows snow when we get it so they sit a lot. Both running Q-jets that I rebuilt more than 10 years ago and they don’t give a me a lick of problems. If I lived in the wet side of the state it would probably be a different story. Single digit humidity isn’t uncommon around these parts.

Great info you are putting out here thank you!

 

[North by Northwest]

I agree. Just pointing out that technology has alleviated some of the issues with soft parts degrading because of E fuel, but neglect is neglect. Can’t fix stupid. I have two old chevys, one is for dump and scrap runs, and the other plows snow when we get it so they sit a lot. Both running Q-jets that I rebuilt more than 10 years ago and they don’t give a me a lick of problems. If I lived in the wet side of the state it would probably be a different story. Single digit humidity isn’t uncommon around these parts.

Great info you are putting out here thank you!

No harm no foul bud all good . Yeah all natural rubber & former cork gasketing for the most part has been replaced with epdm . solving the sealibility issues when efuel was 1st introduced . I use efuel quite a bit , however use Startron (Wal-Mart $8) which treats up to 100 gal. via 8 oz. In storage if required . Thanks for the feedback & kind words !

 

[North by Northwest]

I really prefer efree and that’s the main reason I run 90 simply because my Sunoco does not offer an e free in lower octane.

In a perfect world I do too Matt 100% . How about helping a old coddger out and ship some non efuel North ...Eh !