Cast Iron Cookware

[ken morgan]

Last one

 

[djg james]

I've always wondered how the pioneers kept their cast iron tea pots/kettles rust proof. Seasoned it somehow?

 

[Stonesforbrains]

So on the 28th just prior tot he Japanese new years, I got hold of an antique Japanese cast iron tea pot. I am in the process of cleaning it up, it sat unused for about 20+ years in an abandoned cabin not far from mine at Fuji and when the local government came in and was tearing down the (now partially collapsed) cabin, I took a pot of coffee up to the work team for their 10:00 break and as they were talking about all of the old stuff they were always clearing out of abandoned buildings when they tore them down.
the Forman handed me a rust covered tea pot as an example and I was "what do you do with it all?" we throw it away unless someone wants something. so currently I am soaking it in apple cider vinegar to gently remove the rust to see what it looks like. according to my wife she says they prefer the cast iron tea pots back in the day as you could sit them directly on the coals from a kotatsu or a small indoor stove without worry. I asked how you keep it from rusting and she did not know.
I will post some pics once I get it cleaned up.

ken

That’s cool, good save! I like the pics, looks like a nice addition to your collection!

 

[jakethesnake]

I dig cast. Bout 90 percent of my cooking is in them. The last one I scored was a rusted out #8 that sat outside.

 

[jakethesnake]

Where the fire hits it it rusts a lil. It’ll come around. I’ve found the best way to season one from my experience is put it on the stove and cook in it everyday for a bit. They come around

 

[jakethesnake]

Inside

 

[jakethesnake]

Couple I was resealing there on outside woodstove

 

[ken morgan]

I've always wondered how the pioneers kept their cast iron tea pots/kettles rust proof. Seasoned it somehow?

thats what I am trying to figure out. got all the rust out with vinegar and I then coated the inside with some pork grease and cooked it on the wood stove till it was nice and dried.. I then boiled some water in it but evidentially my coating was not adhered well enough as it peeled off in a couple of locations and started rusting again. so i am going to try again over the next couple of weeks to build up a thicker multi layer coating and then try again.

 

[Backyard Lumberjack]

i got my stainless grill the same way. was driving down the road with my wife several years ago and there it was set out to the curb for recycle. I stopped turned around and went back asked the wife to get out and help me put it in the truck she thought i was crazy. it was pretty covered in crud. but it cleaned up real nice and has a lifetime warranty on replacement burners cooking grates and heat tents it has been a solid gasser

heck of a deal!

i always liked a solid gasser:

lol

 

[Backyard Lumberjack]

its pretty thin. not sure if it can be repaired. it would take someone that is really good to make it look decent .

cast iron can be welded, but the process is not for the faint of heart!

if it was mine... i would JB Weld the broken side's faces. clean first with some real hot soapy water. degrease, etc. JB regular, not Quick! no doubt will take some set up fixture to maintain correct positioning of the two pcs. dry trials first, imo. leave it alone then once set and glued for 48 hrs. then put some place safe and let it sit for a week. well, imo. from here on would not be grabbing by the handle. maybe to stabilzie it only. no full weight! then i would get some small 8-32 button head's... and drill & set fasteners from inside to outside with a pce of metal to tap the threads into... 1/8th alum eziest... bbq black paint on the pce since on outer side, and shaping it to fit side of pan. once done, finish off nicely. imo, it will never be ok to just grab by the handle... (strong enuff!) but i would cook on it. in it. prob would be a 2-hand operation with kitchen mitts. or use it outside on the bbq side burner for some of those wonderful hand cut tasty french fries...

i would not tighten the button heads too tight, just snug. too tight could cause JB weld to break. the better the conformity - the better the results, ie longevity. reportedly JB can take up to 500f ~

> not sure if it can be repaired.

i think it can be, that is if a person wanted to do so. not an entry DIY project... but with some skill and metalworking experience...

 

[Backyard Lumberjack]

It is doable.

 

[Backyard Lumberjack]

i cooked tomato sauce in the smaller pan early on after it was restored and the acid changed the way the pan looked but it didnt change the way it cooks just etched the patina. water doesnt harm them normally but water was left in it for three days and rust happened

still have some tomatoes i canned sev yrs ago. still tasty! normally, i do tomatoes as in too many still from garden and spaghetti to make... in an alum dutch oven. have 2. big and bigger! lol... the biggest tomato here, yesterday pix from fall garden... is headed to address the needs of a fresh cheese burger for tonite's menu:

 

[Backyard Lumberjack]

Just picked up a 14 qt Lodge Dutch oven. $70 at Walmart new in the box think it was an online return as they don’t carry it in store . I’m going to sand the inside and re-season it . Quick search they go for 110 plus shipping View attachment 953471View attachment 953472

i know it is heavy - I got a 14" fry pan.... and it sure is!

 

[Backyard Lumberjack]

So on the 28th just prior tot he Japanese new years, I got hold of an antique Japanese cast iron tea pot. I am in the process of cleaning it up, it sat unused for about 20+ years in an abandoned cabin not far from mine at Fuji and when the local government came in and was tearing down the (now partially collapsed) cabin, I took a pot of coffee up to the work team for their 10:00 break and as they were talking about all of the old stuff they were always clearing out of abandoned buildings when they tore them down.
the Forman handed me a rust covered tea pot as an example and I was "what do you do with it all?" we throw it away unless someone wants something. so currently I am soaking it in apple cider vinegar to gently remove the rust to see what it looks like. according to my wife she says they prefer the cast iron tea pots back in the day as you could sit them directly on the coals from a kotatsu or a small indoor stove without worry. I asked how you keep it from rusting and she did not know.
I will post some pics once I get it cleaned up.

ken

when i first saw ur post i thot... wow! a cast iron tea pot! rare! interesting story. thanks for the post...

> I asked how you keep it from rusting and she did not know.

ues it often!

 

[Backyard Lumberjack]

or:

[net ref]

If rust bothers you, clean the rusted area with a soft brush, then fill the pot with used tea leaves and boiling water. Allow to sit for 20 minutes, discard and rinse. Tannic acid in the tea reacts with the rust and forms a natural seal, helping to prevent the reoccurrence of rust.

 

[ken morgan]

or:

[net ref]

If rust bothers you, clean the rusted area with a soft brush, then fill the pot with used tea leaves and boiling water. Allow to sit for 20 minutes, discard and rinse. Tannic acid in the tea reacts with the rust and forms a natural seal, helping to prevent the reoccurrence of rust.

View attachment 955749

any tea leaves in particular? any particular type or whatnot?

 

[ken morgan]

cast iron can be welded, but the process is not for the faint of heart!

if it was mine... i would JB Weld the broken side's faces. clean first with some real hot soapy water. degrease, etc. JB regular, not Quick! no doubt will take some set up fixture to maintain correct positioning of the two pcs. dry trials first, imo. leave it alone then once set and glued for 48 hrs. then put some place safe and let it sit for a week. well, imo. from here on would not be grabbing by the handle. maybe to stabilzie it only. no full weight! then i would get some small 8-32 button head's... and drill & set fasteners from inside to outside with a pce of metal to tap the threads into... 1/8th alum eziest... bbq black paint on the pce since on outer side, and shaping it to fit side of pan. once done, finish off nicely. imo, it will never be ok to just grab by the handle... (strong enuff!) but i would cook on it. in it. prob would be a 2-hand operation with kitchen mitts. or use it outside on the bbq side burner for some of those wonderful hand cut tasty french fries...

i would not tighten the button heads too tight, just snug. too tight could cause JB weld to break. the better the conformity - the better the results, ie longevity. reportedly JB can take up to 500f ~

> not sure if it can be repaired.

i think it can be, that is if a person wanted to do so. not an entry DIY project... but with some skill and metalworking experience...

best bet is to prep the area. drill out ends of cracks, bevel edges then preheat with a rose bud until the entire unit is good and hot...(damn near melting) then weld it with Nickle rods and while you slowly lower the heat tap the surrounding area with a ball peen hammer. tap tap tap... until your wrists hurt while slowly lowering the heat form the rosebud. keep doing it (tapping with ball peen) until it is safe to touch. ball peening will relieve the stress in the casting, and preheating it will also help relive stress in the weld. the two of them will allow you to weld cast iron with no issues...just time consuming. you can do the same thing with a forge. heat all parts up in the forge, pull out weld a little and then stuff it back in... repeat until all welds are finished, then pull out, tap with ball pene, insert back in the forge, pull out and tap some more... keep repeating as you lower the temps.

 

[Townie]

The best place/product to buy top quality cast iron Dutch-ovens, pans, griddles, etc. is Field Company. They are US made and much better than the newer Lodge stuff. The Field gear is expensive, but over 50 years of use, it's a bargain.

 

[Backyard Lumberjack]

best bet is to prep the area. drill out ends of cracks, bevel edges then preheat with a rose bud until the entire unit is good and hot...(damn near melting) then weld it with Nickle rods and while you slowly lower the heat tap the surrounding area with a ball peen hammer. tap tap tap... until your wrists hurt while slowly lowering the heat form the rosebud. keep doing it (tapping with ball peen) until it is safe to touch. ball peening will relieve the stress in the casting, and preheating it will also help relive stress in the weld. the two of them will allow you to weld cast iron with no issues...just time consuming. you can do the same thing with a forge. heat all parts up in the forge, pull out weld a little and then stuff it back in... repeat until all welds are finished, then pull out, tap with ball pene, insert back in the forge, pull out and tap some more... keep repeating as you lower the temps.

interesting. that is one way... no doubt stronger. may be a Level 3 DIY!

[net ref]

Ferro-Nickel Rods are cheaper than pure Nickel and are ideal for welding Cast Iron to Steel. Pure Nickel will produce a softer, more malleable weld deposit.

 

[Backyard Lumberjack]

any tea leaves in particular? any particular type or whatnot?

no idea. i like tea but don't drink it often. i got the info off net. perhaps further surfing can tell more...

this popped up when i just surfed the subject again. maybe something helpful here:

https://www.finishing.com/253/66.shtml