Fine dust in air filter

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Bearcat22lr

just some guy that burns wood
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Changed the air filter in my Jonsered 2260 admittedly long over due. Hasn't ever been changed. There was alot of very fine dust caked in it. New oem filter looks different, instead of mesh type material, it's made of the yellow fibery material. My 2255 (455 rancher) was clean, but changed as well.
Anyhow cleaned the saw up with a compressor, and saw ran well per usual. With seemingly a bit more pep... no longer choking on saw dust.
20220717_204504.jpg20220717_171458.jpg
Here's a pic of the filter, intake was similar.
 
Rub some grease on the mating lips and/or get the updated filter setup. My 562 leaked fines so I bought the updated kit, it still leaked a bit so I smeared bar tip grease all over on the mating surfaces, it hasn't hardly leaked since. My original filter is looking pretty dark so I went to buy a backup, ended up with 3 for $36 shipped so I should be set for a little bit.
 
Rub some grease on the mating lips and/or get the updated filter setup. My 562 leaked fines so I bought the updated kit, it still leaked a bit so I smeared bar tip grease all over on the mating surfaces, it hasn't hardly leaked since. My original filter is looking pretty dark so I went to buy a backup, ended up with 3 for $36 shipped so I should be set for a little bit.
a lot of crazy physics goes on around the air filter…

Try this…

8A455A55-E4FA-4D7E-9E8A-5C7D2B84BD04.jpeg
 
a lot of crazy physics goes on around the air filter…

Try this…

View attachment 1003754
Eh, I got the grease and grease gun for free and even on 100 degree days with the saw being run hard it hasn't failed. In my opinion, tip grease is made for high temp applications (ever felt a bar after cutting for awhile?) and it's tacky, thereby it satisfies my two requirements for sealing grease.
 
Eh, I got the grease and grease gun for free and even on 100 degree days with the saw being run hard it hasn't failed. In my opinion, tip grease is made for high temp applications (ever felt a bar after cutting for awhile?) and it's tacky, thereby it satisfies my two requirements for sealing grease.
Just realize they are two completely different greases…one is for mechanical pressure service, the other is for non mechanical vacuum service….
 
Seems to me it doesn't make much difference...anything that stays wet/sticky and fills gaps is gonna work...oil, grease, wax, silicone caulk, peanut butter, whatever...it ain't an o-ring for the Space Shuttle.
 
Just realize they are two completely different greases…one is for mechanical pressure service, the other is for non mechanical vacuum service….
Thet make a special high vacuum grease they use in scientific applications..............nah just use the cheap TSC stuff, it's a damm chainsaw!!!

But when the Huskavarmint guys say the old Stihl AF systems sucked.......at least they didn't suck dust in the engine.......
 
sweet thanks for the tips ill try grease
Rub some grease on the mating lips and/or get the updated filter setup. My 562 leaked fines so I bought the updated kit, it still leaked a bit so I smeared bar tip grease all over on the mating surfaces, it hasn't hardly leaked since. My original filter is looking pretty dark so I went to buy a backup, ended up with 3 for $36 shipped so I should be set for a little bit.
562 is the same filter right?
 
Thet make a special high vacuum grease they use in scientific applications..............nah just use the cheap TSC stuff, it's a damm chainsaw!!!

But when the Huskavarmint guys say the old Stihl AF systems sucked.......at least they didn't suck dust in the engine.......
The physics of vacuum always fascinated me. It’s one of only real world things in everyday life that can approach zero. But as common as it is, not a lot of people understand it…
 
The physics of vacuum always fascinated me. It’s one of only real world things in everyday life that can approach zero. But as common as it is, not a lot of people understand it…
I used to do vacuum distillations, sometimes on new unknown high boiling liquid compounds, down to about 0.1mm Hg.

We also used high vac to dry and lyophilize, and in MS spectrophotometers.

A good used pump pulled 0.001mm Hg or it was beat.
 
Thet make a special high vacuum grease they use in scientific applications..............nah just use the cheap TSC stuff, it's a damm chainsaw!!!

But when the Huskavarmint guys say the old Stihl AF systems sucked.......at least they didn't suck dust in the engine.......
maybe you should look at the recent 056 thread
 
Worn ring(s) and lowered compression. Possible bearing and seal wear. I’d pull the carb off and thoroughly clean it too. There will be dust caked inside it and the intake tubing.
Other then that, if it still runs well, not much more you can do. Eventually it will need a rebuild.
gotcha I'll take off the carb this weekend and clean it out.
 
Worn ring(s) and lowered compression. Possible bearing and seal wear. I’d pull the carb off and thoroughly clean it too. There will be dust caked inside it and the intake tubing.
Other then that, if it still runs well, not much more you can do. Eventually it will need a rebuild.
like new rings or piston and jug?
 
That's not terrible looking inside, the fact performance increased after replacement shows it was very clogged and likey why fines were getting pulled through. Like suggested investigate the visible portion of the piston and rings through the intake. If it shows scratches or funky buildup onn the piston or the rings have chips or scratches in the face or edges it wouldn't hurt to pull the cylinder off and stick a new piston in and inspect the wrist pin bearing and rinse out the crank case a few times with fresh mix to clean it out.
 
sounds like it is running fine now. If it were mine, I’d clean the carb and unless the piston looks horrible, I’d keep running it. The damage is done already. If you keep the air filter clean going forward it won’t get worse. When it stops starting/idling or has no power, then it’s rebuild time.
 
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