Thats short sleeve shirts weather up North indeed !
Carbon Remover
- Thread starter bwalker
- Start date
Help Support Arborist Forum:
I routinely , run Amsoil 5w-30 small engine synthetic in the 2 8000 watt Yamaha gen sets here @ hunting camp . Since we often , use the gens in the winter . The hunt cabin is a base camp for ice fishing sessions from various other inland speck & lakes trout lakes . I may check out if 0w-30 oil , JR would be a option for these two aircooled units for winter service usage .
I run, well ran the 5w40 Rotella in all my diesels. Truck, generator (air cooled yanmar) and both tractors. Every now and then winter dips down into single digits, so even with 15w40 they don't crank much slower. The expedition, crv, and my f250 all call for 10w30. I'll say this much even at 30* with synthetic oils they all crank noticeably slower, especially the 460 in my f250. That escape we just picked up calls for a 5w20 oil. Figure that should start up pretty easy when the temps start dropping.
Since leaving the machine shop I don't have ready access to an oil lab, and truthfully sensing them out to one of the labs the shop used requires a commercial account and ordering a lot of sample bottles to be worth while. I've used caterpillars test lab a few times, cost a but more then I'd like, but they have quick turnaround and email you results instead of snail mail.
Since leaving the machine shop I don't have ready access to an oil lab, and truthfully sensing them out to one of the labs the shop used requires a commercial account and ordering a lot of sample bottles to be worth while. I've used caterpillars test lab a few times, cost a but more then I'd like, but they have quick turnaround and email you results instead of snail mail.
I run 0w40 year round in my air cooled stuff but i rarely use it when it gets below 60 except my generator when the power goes out since electricity isn't reliable in winter storms.
Have not noticed any oil consumption / smoke but can say the engine resistance when rope starting is much less compared to standard sae 30.
My friend who farms was running into trouble when it got below 30 degrees in the winter trying to start his side by side or atv running conv motorcycle-atv 10w40 oil but every since i got him to switch to polaris 5w50 oil his problems is non existent now.
Have not noticed any oil consumption / smoke but can say the engine resistance when rope starting is much less compared to standard sae 30.
My friend who farms was running into trouble when it got below 30 degrees in the winter trying to start his side by side or atv running conv motorcycle-atv 10w40 oil but every since i got him to switch to polaris 5w50 oil his problems is non existent now.
Yeah , unusually switch my side by & quads to 5w-30 for the fall , however we headed up to camp a few weeks earlier since we qualified for Bull & Cow tags in bow season . Today is the opener of Rifle season . We were fortunate to fill our Bull tag last weekend . The 8 yr old bull is hanging quartered in the meat processing shed . We have a few cows responding to our calling . Anyhow thats the only thing I forgot & was not an issue until the full hunters moon kicked in lol. I won't forget next year to switch to wintergrade early !
I run syn 5w30 in my portable generator that I haul to elk camp. At high elevation and cold temps starting can be dicey. The 5w30 helps, but I still carry a can of starting fluid just in case.
The rest of my 4cycle air cooled equipment gets Rotella T 15w40 or 10w30 if I can find it.
Tomos770
ArboristSite Guru
Whatever one use....just pay attention that oil in OPE is not ILSAC certified...or ACEA A5/B5/C1/C2...
Because you dont want a fuel conserving oil in any aircooled unit (lower HTHS factor)!
Thats why is advised to use HDEOs or Euro PCMOs....HTHS 3.5++
EDIT: OPE stands for outdor power equipement!
Because you dont want a fuel conserving oil in any aircooled unit (lower HTHS factor)!
Thats why is advised to use HDEOs or Euro PCMOs....HTHS 3.5++
EDIT: OPE stands for outdor power equipement!
I get where your coming from, but honestly I am not sure it matters much. These small air cooled engines are not especially high strung and they seem to last just fine on about any oil.
I use Rottella, because it has a bit more zinc and calcium, but in reality i dont need to.
Yeah , Rotella T6 is a very good 10w-30 consideration in new air cooled generator sets . I used it in air cooled generators for 30+ yrs Honda & Yamaha primarily 5000 & 10,000 watt units for our Satelite hunting & fishing camp 24k / Btu. Chiller coil units in the meat processing / hanging & storage sheds . Eventually , I went with 10w-40 T6 then at the end of their life cycle 20w-40 Yamalube or 15w-40 T6 , which ever was available conveniently !
Tomos770
ArboristSite Guru
From BITOG
https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/t...8th-day-for-eu2000.360140/page-2#post-6253106
Its not P/Zn values that save your generator/lawnmover.....since valve springs are not under high load....
Its solo higher HTHS & viscosity (new oil quickly shreads down a geade or two (due to high heat/use/fuel dilution).....and then you are screwed....
The main problem is the 10w30 diesel oil of any brand is real hard to find in my area. As a result I mostly just use the 15w40 and it works just fine in summer temps.
Bobs guys are a bit crazy IMO and IME.From BITOG
https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/t...8th-day-for-eu2000.360140/page-2#post-6253106
Its not P/Zn values that save your generator/lawnmover.....since valve springs are not under high load....
Its solo higher HTHS & viscosity (new oil quickly shreads down a geade or two (due to high heat/use/fuel dilution).....and then you are screwed....
Oil isnt going to shear down faster in a generator or the like vs. a car. In fact I wpukd bet the opposite is true.
If your paranoid about it you can change it sooner.
And fuel dillution is an issue with any four cycle equiped with a carb, but that doesnt have anytgibg to do with shear.
Tomos770
ArboristSite Guru
yes you can find plenty of users with OCD disease on it....BUT!Fuel dilution can quickly be an issue in a generator which sat for a year or two...stuck needle....or dirt on a needle seal.....that causes it to run pig rich! Or simply cheap non adjustable chineese carb....
Additionaly.....these engines has splash lubrication...so quality of oil is of more importance (no abundance of oil film between moving parts).
And last (but not least)......there is no such thing as "CONVENTIONAL 5W30" oil here in EU.....
5W40 or 10W30 CK4 oil for diesels is easy to find here where i live. It has became more common as more diesels have switched to it. Even the expensive FA4 diesel oil.
I live in Montana. I actually was in Wally world yesterday and didn't see one 5w40 or 10w30 diesel oil available. I'm not sure why this is.
Fuel dilution is almost always an issue with any carb equipped 4 cycle. This of course degrades viscosity, but that's not the same as shearing.
Fuel dilution can quickly be an issue in a generator which sat for a year or two...stuck needle....or dirt on a needle seal.....that causes it to run pig rich! Or simply cheap non adjustable chineese carb....
Additionaly.....these engines has splash lubrication...so quality of oil is of more importance (no abundance of oil film between moving parts).
And last (but not least)......there is no such thing as "CONVENTIONAL 5W30" oil here in EU.....
Conventional oils here are in reality many times a Synthetic blend.
Got it falling off the shelves here , I would send you some however you couldn't or wouldn't like the price adder Ben !
I actually did find a 2.5 gallon jug of shell Rotella 5/40 at TSC today. It didn't meet the current spec so I'm thinking it's old stock.Got it falling off the shelves here , I would send you some however you couldn't or wouldn't like the price adder Ben !
Tomos770
ArboristSite Guru
You have me paranoid.. So I checked my the Owners manuals for my Honda pressure washer and lawnmower. Both had the same reccomendation.
