I'm thinking I repaired more equipment last week than you have in your life.
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Forget the piston stop
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Somehow I doubt this, yet here we go again with a pissing contest.
You do not need to have a flange nut, not any steel extensions, nor two sets of hands.
For most people that deal in consumer grade plastic stuff- it would pay to use a rubber mallet, soft face hammer, or even a dead blow hammer designed for driving felling wedges that professional saw users have- rather than a steel hammer- but loosen the nut, hammer blow to the nut covered crank end and they usually pop off the taper.
It aint rocket science.
Bravo. You should probaly get some sort of award for repairing about the simplest machine around..
No, it's not rocket science..
Bill G
ArboristSite King
Well good for you. Do you want a sticker? What the hell does that comment have to do with the thread?
Bill G
ArboristSite King
Then you are lucky and clearly never worked on a vinatge saw.
Bill G
ArboristSite King
No it is not. Use the proper tool for the proper job. Hammers are not flywheel pullers no matter how many times you want to say it. Do you use screwdrivers for pry bars and chisels also?
Bill G
ArboristSite King
Once again another post that has nothing to do with the thread.
Bill G
ArboristSite King
What the hell is it with you and chewing gum? Are you really proud you can chew gum? Is that a great accomplishment in your mind? That is at least the third time in this post you have bragged about chewing gum. Are you really proud of that ability? WOW
It's a nice way of saying I think your a retard and you should probably go ahead and use a flywheel puller..
Not working on old junk has nothing to do with luck. It's smart..
Bill G
ArboristSite King
That coming from the guy who goes online bragging about his/her/its misuse of tools. Just because you have never worked on a old saw and you have been LUCKY to get by with your ignorant use of a hammer does not excuse your stupidity. Luck is zero excuse for stupidity. By all means keep using your "fine adjustment tool"
Sad thing is you call me a "retard" and you are not even smart enough to know you did not even use the word correctly.
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What time of the day is it over there and who got out the wrong side of the bed?
Where is it chiselled into stone that one must use a proprietary tool to remove a flywheel? For what it is worth I own all the Stihl ones as their removal method is quick compared to others- but I seldom bother to use them- because backing off the keeper nut and giving them a tap is generally quicker- for me.
Nobody is saying you must do it my way, just some people have different methods to arrive safely at the same conclusion.
For what it is worth- I do not own any form of "proper" oil seal removal nor install tools- but I remove and replace a shite load of them per annum.
Where is it chiselled into stone that one must use a proprietary tool to remove a flywheel? For what it is worth I own all the Stihl ones as their removal method is quick compared to others- but I seldom bother to use them- because backing off the keeper nut and giving them a tap is generally quicker- for me.
Nobody is saying you must do it my way, just some people have different methods to arrive safely at the same conclusion.
For what it is worth- I do not own any form of "proper" oil seal removal nor install tools- but I remove and replace a shite load of them per annum.
Bill G
ArboristSite King
Hello Bob,
Well it is 11:27PM here 1-3 hours later to the east and 1-2 hours earlier to the west. I have never said you have to use a proprietary tool. Never once. Growing up with a tool and die maker as my mentor I learned an appreciation for building a tool to accomplish the task at hand. I still own the tools he built for my father working on old equipment (it was new at that time) Go back and work on some of the saws from the 1940's on. See how a hammer works out. Go take a look at the guy who tried that with a 1946 Mercury KB6. How about the guy who did it with a DA211? God forbid you ever try to use a hammer to pull the gear on a Stihl BLK. If so you will get a bit of education on a press fit. I have pictures to show where a gentleman did not understand that. I have a simple belief that a man/woman should use the best tool for the job. Have i not followed that belief? Of course not. I am as impatient as anyone else.
A few moths back I wish I would have gotten my phone out early enough to record some young guys at work. I did not as it is against the rules. I wish I would have anyway. They were trying to best each other knocking some bushings out. They were beating their fool heads of using unsafe wallowed out 16 pouns sledges. After they were done beating their fool heads off a older gent walked over with a 20 ounce hammer and showed them how it was done correctly with the bushing driver. The right tool for the right job.......
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But it is yesterday?
Right tool for the job? We are not removing bushes, nor pressed fittings- we are removing simple taper fit flywheels off of tapered crank stubs.
Yes proprietary tools work, but not everybody owns them or has access to them- most folk have a hammer- sometimes more than one hammer.
Similar to your unknowing boys at work, I have seen someone pull the alloy threads on a Stihl flywheel with the Stihl puller tool- because nobody explained you need to remove the keeper nut first! So fools can mash things up even with the proper tooling- if they lack knowledge- just like a ham fister with a steel hammer hitting an exposed thread crank end (nut fully removed) or not hitting the loosened nut square- that is why I suggested a soft face hammer above.
I once removed a 2100 Husqvarna flywheel for a guy who had used a threaded puller and tore the 4mm (? from memory- might be 5mm) threads from the flywheel before it budged. I used a combination of heat, alloy wedges between case and flywheel and a dead blow hammer- but it came off safely and without damage.
Yes, proper tools work- but so can other methods- it is up to the individual to decide which works best for them, use their preferred method and leave it at that- no need to snipe each other on who is the more correct.
You are correct in theory. But, the internal pawl starters have the nut recessed in a cup that has ridges in it that the pawls push against. So, if the nut is flanged or skirted at the bottom then it is a simple matter to use a deep socket. But, if it is not and some aren't then you need to have very good aim or use a bolt or whatever to get above the cup.
Some take a pretty good lick even with a 20 ounce hammer, so I'm not ure you could get all of them by any stretch with something plastic.
As far as doubting how much equipment I repair admittedly most of it is simple crap, but 40 pieces a week depending on time of year is common.
I posted a photo a thread or two back with equipment I had repaired and was waiting for pick up.
I go through a bunch of stuff.
And, for whatever reason Walker seems to think he has to respond to every post I make.
Don't think I ever quoted him until he quoted me.
My shop. Not the store's but at my farm.
Your shop--run it how you want--Old cat mechanic--Love old stuff--LT-37 Johnson outboards-old saws-1950 F-3 ford truck-coleman stove-lantern-all appliances-plumbing-Briggs and Straton washing machine engines.You learn things-slow and steady. A lot of people rip and run--and reap all kinds of benefits!!! Lets go finish putting carb kit in holley 94 carb off 1950 flathead v8!!!
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So the basis of your who's chest can be pushed out further side of the argument is removing small stationary engine 4 stroke internal pawl cupped starter flywheels versus chainsaw flywheels that are the subject of choice?
From my background- a 20oz steel hammer is a tool for finishings and or apprentices and many plastic/leather/brass/aluminium faced hammers will deliver just as much- or a whole lot more- (depending on head weight) striking force.
Nobody is doubting you might work on 40 pieces of equipment a week- most urban folk that know little about small engines, yet own engine powered equipment, need someone to do the basics and keep their garden tools running. Personally I try to avoid the consumer pile of line trimmers, but if one needed fixed- I am fairly sure I can handle it, as can a lot of other folk that comment on posts here- at the end of the day, they are all powered by fairly simple forms of engine.
