best 2 stroke synthetic/regular oil

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tundraotto

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hi, looking for the best oil to use in my husky 372xp that i should be receiving sometime soon - thanks to all those that helped me pick the saw - im sure it'll be great.

Anyway, any synthetics available? are they better and why or why not. i will use the 32-1 mix that seems to be the one to use. how much are they and where can you buy them - from the web? i can get the husky oil easily but somewhere i saw that it was made out of some sort of vegetable? extract - doesnt sound promising to me...(afterall im almost bankrupt after purchasing this saw and dont need it to lay down cos of anything i can help)
 
I use Maxum927 half synthetic and half castor oil, upon recommendation of Ken "The HotSaw" Dunn. I like it and use it in all of my two-cycle units.
 
Just use the Husky or Stihl 50:1 oil that's formulated for your saw. I'd trust factory oils from the major manufacturers any day over any "snake oil".

If you are pushing your saw hard you might richen the mix very slightly (ie .9 gallons per bottle of oil).

Use premium major brand gasoline and keep the mix fresh.
 
thought this may be interesting - in my 136 the manual calls for 40-1 mix - is this the same as the 372xp? if not why? i know little rich is better than a little lean but whats the best for performance & the saw?
 
The 136 is made by Poulan, and all Poulans made in the last ten years run at 40:1. All professional model Huskies use a 50:1, mostly to reduce hydrocarbon emissions and keep the epa happy. Never run your saw leaner than 50:1, and I would break the engine in at 40:1 for the first few tanks at least.
 
BY POULAN!!!!!!!!!1

now i really feel robbed - have been pleased with the saw for its size, but if the 136 is made by poulan im really not expecting great longevity for it - i really feel cheated - is the 141 made by poulan as well??? i would not have bought this saw if i knew it was made by poulan - i would just have bought a poulan for $70 less...
 
Dont look too deeply into it. Yes the 141 and 136 are made by Poulan in their plant in Shrevesport, LA. Husqvarna would not put their name on the saw if it was not decent. But there is a reason they are $100 less than the next saw, the 340, and the way to do that was have Poulan, whom Husqvarna owns, build them. I have never heard one complaint from the owner of one of these saws and you are a perfect example. Think of them more like the Poulan Pro models, not the green machines. They have the chrome cylinder and air injection like the rest of the family.
 
bashful owner of a poulan

well - since i will soon (hopefully) have a real husqvarna and not a poulan in disguise --- (the 136 seems like a good saw - just little but great for limbing). Why do you guys thin the ratio with synthetic when you use it? i was planning to use the amsoil racing oil in the 40-1 ratio - why thin it out, is this leaning of the ratio just cheapskating?:confused:
 
I have to agree with Davefr. Untill it was 'liberated' last year, I had a Stihl 038Magnum which I had bought new about 13 years ago. When I bought it, the recommended oil ratio was 32-1. But the next year, EPA mandated 50-1 for manufacturers for 'emissions' reasons. I bought Stihl or Husky 50-1 mix, but I mixed it a little rich, about 40-1. I use this mix for EVERY 2-cycle engine I own. That old Stihl had excellent compression when it was 'borrowed' last year. ALL my 2-cycle motors have excellent compression and never foul plugs. I can't remember the last time one of my 2-cycles didn't run perfectly.

If you have a damn good reason to use 'racing' oil, then fine. But for the commercial user who just wants his saws to last forever thare is NO reason to 'experiment'. The manufacturers have got the right oil for their saws.
 
Every Friday from now on I am going to start a thread about oil. One day it will be "which oil is best?"
then "mineral oil vs. synthetic" the next week
of course there has to be "which ratio is best?"
;)
 
thanks

i was really trying to find out mainly about synthetics and conventional oils - ratios too for sure - so if the horse was kicked to death it wasnt because anyone had answered any questions about synthetics vs. normal (husky xp & stihll?) (btw snake oil term sounds cool but real experiences and not opinions please) thanks - dont let me waste your time - im just curious about all kinds of saw stuff.:alien:
 
Last edited:
Perhaps you would find this usefull:
These two new International designations for two-cycle engines have been
adopted worldwide to classify high temperature air-cooled 2-cycle engine oils.

From Europe the ISO "Global" system, and from Japan the JASO system.
The ISO GC and JASO FC are the most common grades and can be found most
anywhere. I use CITGO "Supergard" air cooled oil on my chain saws (Stihls that
I have had almost twenty years now). It is rated as ISO GD which is the
highest possible 2 cycle rating but can be hard to find. The funny thing is it
never costs any more and often less than other 2 cycle oils. I just picked up
two qts of it at the local Fleet Farm for $1.89/qt.

Finding a decent oil isn't complicated rocket science stuff just buy your oil based on recognized third party oil standards and avoid the hype of manufacturers.


Art
-----------------------------------------------
ISO "Global" System

Global "GD" is internationally recognized as the highest quality air-cooled
2-cycle oil available. It is a synthetic or semi-synthetic, extreme
temperature/anti-scuff/lubricity, low smoke, low ash oil. There is no
comparable JASO or API product.

Global "GC" is equivalent to JASO "FC," Japan's highest quality 2-cycle oil.
In Japan these oils may also be referred to as "Genuine" oils. These oils are
high lubricity/detergent, low smoke, semi-synthetic, low ash oils.

Global "GB" Europe's lowest quality 2-cycle oil, is equivalent to JASO "FB."
It is generally accepted that North America's API TC rated oils are equivalent
to these oils. These oils do not require any synthetic to meet specifications,
but do have detergent and/or lubricity additives, and are typically low to
medium ash oils.
---------------------------------------------
JASO System

JASO "FA" rated oils are used in Pacific Rim countries and are the lowest
rated Japanese 2-cycle oils. They are medium to high ash mineral oils with
limited lubricity or detergency.

JASO "FB" is equivalent to Global "GB." It is generally accepted that North
America's API TC rated oils are equivalent to these oils. These oils do not
require any synthetic to meet specifications, but do have detergent and/or
lubricity additives, and are typically low to medium ash oils.

JASO "FC" is equivalent to Global "GC," Europe's medium quality 2-cycle oil.
In Japan these oils may also be referred to as "Genuine" oils. These oils are
high lubricity/detergent, low smoke, semi-synthetic, low ash oils.
 
Perhaps you would find this usefull:
These two new International designations for two-cycle engines have been
adopted worldwide to classify high temperature air-cooled 2-cycle engine oils.

From Europe the ISO "Global" system, and from Japan the JASO system.
The ISO GC and JASO FC are the most common grades and can be found most
anywhere. I use CITGO "Supergard" air cooled oil on my chain saws (Stihls that
I have had almost twenty years now). It is rated as ISO GD which is the
highest possible 2 cycle rating but can be hard to find. The funny thing is it
never costs any more and often less than other 2 cycle oils. I just picked up
two qts of it at the local Fleet Farm for $1.89/qt.

Finding a decent oil isn't complicated rocket science stuff just buy your oil based on recognized third party oil standards and avoid the hype of manufacturers.


Art
-----------------------------------------------
ISO "Global" System

Global "GD" is internationally recognized as the highest quality air-cooled
2-cycle oil available. It is a synthetic or semi-synthetic, extreme
temperature/anti-scuff/lubricity, low smoke, low ash oil. There is no
comparable JASO or API product.

Global "GC" is equivalent to JASO "FC," Japan's highest quality 2-cycle oil.
In Japan these oils may also be referred to as "Genuine" oils. These oils are
high lubricity/detergent, low smoke, semi-synthetic, low ash oils.

Global "GB" Europe's lowest quality 2-cycle oil, is equivalent to JASO "FB."
It is generally accepted that North America's API TC rated oils are equivalent
to these oils. These oils do not require any synthetic to meet specifications,
but do have detergent and/or lubricity additives, and are typically low to
medium ash oils.
---------------------------------------------
JASO System

JASO "FA" rated oils are used in Pacific Rim countries and are the lowest
rated Japanese 2-cycle oils. They are medium to high ash mineral oils with
limited lubricity or detergency.

JASO "FB" is equivalent to Global "GB." It is generally accepted that North
America's API TC rated oils are equivalent to these oils. These oils do not
require any synthetic to meet specifications, but do have detergent and/or
lubricity additives, and are typically low to medium ash oils.

JASO "FC" is equivalent to Global "GC," Europe's medium quality 2-cycle oil.
In Japan these oils may also be referred to as "Genuine" oils. These oils are
high lubricity/detergent, low smoke, semi-synthetic, low ash oils.
 
Really enjoyed reading this post on the CITGO brand superguard oil. I'm currently using Husky low smoke and have noticed healthy build up of carbon deposits and unburned residue in the cumbustion chamber as well as the muffler / screen. After reading the info in your post, i looked up online availability for this oil. Then only one I found was on ZORO in a 1qt bottle, 12 pack for about $6.75 per qt. Have you found any cheaper source for this oil? The data you shared was really interesting RE flashpoint, viscosity, etc. Read / watched a similar review from "hotsaws" ..a builder out on the westcoast. He touted a caster and maxima full syn racing oil. But for the weekend warrior, very spendy. The intl and japan ratings found on the Citgo was really interesting. Thanks for the post!
 
Why i ask....why not use Synthetic.....it's like the kroil of mixes.....it simply creeps better.
Synthetic is highly recommended for turbo's, tighter tolerance's.
Use it for your saws.
 
Why i ask....why not use Synthetic.....it's like the kroil of mixes.....it simply creeps better.
Synthetic is highly recommended for turbo's, tighter tolerance's.
Use it for your saws.

I'm not sold on Kroil. It's no better than PB Blaster.
 

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