026 Carburetor Rebuild - The Saga Continues

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Thinking about hitting it early. Well, at least when 8:00 rolls around.;)

On the locking up issue, have you checked the connecting rod and crank bearings for play. I had a 660 the acted like that. It would turn fine, run okay, but it would just lock up for no apparent reason. Then it would free up for no apparent reason. Ended up being the connecting rod bearing on the crank. Just a theory.
 
So, I got the jug off, pin driven out of piston circlips all that jazz... That piston was toast! Fortunately my original piston was still around and had no scoring on it. And the cylinder wasn't scored either so I went ahead with the new jug. So I reassembled with what I had, my gasket WAS torn from before so I replaced it with the .5mm one I had sent to me in the mail. I made sure to seal with 518 and used a little bit more this time. Hopefully this solves my leak. How long would you guys wait to test it with vacuum/pressure? I mean, the stuff says two minute set time in the lack of oxygen, but can you trust that?
 
That new piston that got scored was heavily damaged. That jug fit on there way too tight in the first place. Ring was broken in one place, leaving about a whole ring plus a little 1/4" piece in the groove. Learned a lesson the hard way, but I think it will work this time.
 
Does the packaging give a cure time? Seems like I've seen some builders mention giving it overnight so as to be darn sure that it's set up.

Edit: I'm thinking you mentioned loctite 518 for sealant. If I'm right, here's an info page.
looks like the curing time runs a 24hr curve.
Here's a PDF file withe info.
https://tds.us.henkel.com/NA/UT/HNAUTTDS.nsf/web/AACE3993B0D66F88882571870000D7DE/$File/518-EN.pdf
and the manufacturer product page.
http://www.henkelna.com/product-search-1554.htm?nodeid=8797927604225
 
I believe the package said two minutes, but that may have been when using their proprietary "Clean and Prime" which I didn't have therefore didn't use. So it's been a solid three hours, I'm really anxious... Haha!
 
Now the boot is solid, but the flywheel side bearing is blowing air through the rubber! How did I install that wrong?
 
typical stuff is rolling or nicking a lip on a shoulder of a shaft.
not using enough lube on the shaft can allow it to grab and roll the lip.
If the seal has a garter spring in it, those can get knocked out or damaged in handling.
proper location in the housing so as to hit the right location/diameter of the shaft.

Beyond these general thoughts, I'll defer to the folks who know this model of saw and it's specifics.
 
Let's hope so. I had an extra one, so I took off the flywheel and took the old one old the old fashioned way, with elbow grease. Haha. We'll see how this one holds, I greased the inside rubber and the shaft, now going to clean the shaft while it cures. I also put 518 on the outside rim of it where it meets the metal.
 
Stripped all the way to the split cases and painted with oem stihl paint. total rebuild and new plastics. I got the saw for free and probably spent 100$ on the whole thing
 
Just going over things in my mind. Are you sure you put the piston on correctly? There should be an arrow on the piston that points towards the exhaust. If you get it backwards a ring end will likely snag in a port and it kinda sounds like that may have happened. Probably happened when you thought it locked up. When you removed, did you find all the pieces of the ring?

Waylan
 

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