038AV super running rough need help quick

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EKreider89

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Hopefully my title caught your attention!

I need to get my 038 super up and going to be able to help cut up a large tree tomorrow. I’m looking for some educated guesses to help me save time. I bought it early this spring and haven’t gotten much time to run it. It had old gas in it, I dumped that out and put fresh gas in it. It started up a couple of pulls later. When I went to use it a month or so later it would run well and then cough out and die, I restarted it probably a dozen times and the more I started it the less time it would run before sputtering and dying. Could someone give me a list of things to try first? Thanks!
 

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dump the old fuel again including your gas can and use FRESH MIX, check the fuel filter for being restricted, check fuel hose for being torn or collapsed, check choke for getting stuck, check carb for being clogged, install a new plug. USE CANNED FUEL, before you get started put a squirt down the intake and make sure its fuel related.
 
dump the old fuel again including your gas can and use FRESH MIX, check the fuel filter for being restricted, check fuel hose for being torn or collapsed, check choke for getting stuck, check carb for being clogged, install a new plug. USE CANNED FUEL, before you get started put a squirt down the intake and make sure its fuel related.
What do you like about canned fuel? I’ve been using non ethanol mixed with 2 stroke oil. I’ve never used canned.
 
Pull the muffler- look at the piston through the exhaust port and see if it looks all scored up.
Sounds a bit like a classic death by air leak, low compression through melting metal type scenario.
Are you saying air leak OR low compression? Or is that one scenario. And if it is one scenario tell me more
 
What do you like about canned fuel? I’ve been using non ethanol mixed with 2 stroke oil. I’ve never used canned.
You let your saws sit for months between uses, canned fuel can last 2 years in a saw thats in properly maintained condition. Most of those old 038s only have grub screws as a tank vent not a check valve. Compression test it, check the impulse line for cracks and proper sealing on the nipples.
 
Are you saying air leak OR low compression? Or is that one scenario. And if it is one scenario tell me more

I am saying an air leak from a geriatric old saw bought secondhand and pressed into continued service can cause low compression as the exhaust side of the piston melts off and captures the rings into the back of the grooves.
Simply unbolt the muffler and look- if the piston still looks new, then maybe you have a fuel delivery problem, or a dying coil electrical problem.
Eliminate the most obvious and easily investigated and then go from there- you mentioned you were in a hurry.
 
I am saying an air leak from a geriatric old saw bought secondhand and pressed into continued service can cause low compression as the exhaust side of the piston melts off and captures the rings into the back of the grooves.
Simply unbolt the muffler and look- if the piston still looks new, then maybe you have a fuel delivery problem, or a dying coil electrical problem.
Eliminate the most obvious and easily investigated and then go from there- you mentioned you were in a hurry.
:crazy2:
 
Update:

Upon disassembly I found a few things. 1) fuel line is old and broke when removed from tank. 2) tank had lots of chunks of dried varnish floating (could’ve caused fuel filter blockage im assuming).

I’ll get a new fuel line and filter tomorrow and after cleaning out the tank and filling with fresh gas we will see how she runs.

I did find this on the very front of the saw, I haven’t noticed any oil leaking from here, is this anything to be concerned about? Or is there a “fix”?
 

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Update:

Upon disassembly I found a few things. 1) fuel line is old and broke when removed from tank. 2) tank had lots of chunks of dried varnish floating (could’ve caused fuel filter blockage im assuming).

I’ll get a new fuel line and filter tomorrow and after cleaning out the tank and filling with fresh gas we will see how she runs.

I did find this on the very front of the saw, I haven’t noticed any oil leaking from here, is this anything to be concerned about? Or is there a “fix”?
If that is a crack in the crankcase halves you have a grievous problem with an air leak. A pressure/vacuum test is in order. If it leaks JB weld might band aid fix it, or prolong a slow lingering demise.

Where in New Dork are you? I might have a 038 carcass with good cases.
 
If that is a crack in the crankcase halves you have a grievous problem with an air leak. A pressure/vacuum test is in order. If it leaks JB weld might band aid fix it, or prolong a slow lingering demise.

Where in New Dork are you? I might have a 038 carcass with good cases.
It's a crack in the oil tank from the looks of it, so an air leak from that particular location isn't a concern.
 
It's a crack in the oil tank from the looks of it, so an air leak from that particular location isn't a concern.
Look at the picture

It's on the clutch side, next to felling spikes, not fylwheel side

Looks to be on par with the rest of the saws condition.
Don't always judge a book by the cover.

I got a 038M, 30 years ago from a logger friend, for free. Perhaps the dirtiest filthiest saw I'd seen, but free.

I gave it a day long bath. It took a day. Took everything down flywheel side and clutch side. Both were caked with nasty grime.

Found out recoil stopped working as caked with crud, carb stopped working due to airbox/filter FULL of crud and carb impulse cover full of sawdust so carb couldn't pump.

Piston and cyl were OEM and looked new from ex port, had machine marks on piston. WTF? must have been rebuilt at some point, before Chi-Com parts......piston still looks like that now.

After cleaning it started right up and ran fine. So good I gave it a new: fuel filter, air filter, 25" ES bar/chain/rim, rebuilt oil pump seals.

To this day, it's one of my go to saws. I've replaced rubber stuff since: AV buffers, fuel/impulse lines, Bing still pumps OK, fuel vent/grubs.

It's a tad heavy but reliable as the Sun. Pulls a 25" in hardwood with plenty of low end grunt. Stihl had it right when they made the 038.
 
yes it’s a crack in the front of the oil tank. I’ll attach a better picture. Would you fill it in with JB weld? Or just leave it as is?
 

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If that is a crack in the crankcase halves you have a grievous problem with an air leak. A pressure/vacuum test is in order. If it leaks JB weld might band aid fix it, or prolong a slow lingering demise.

Where in New Dork are you? I might have a 038 carcass with good cases.
We’re in the middle of the finger lakes.
 
You know the fuel line is gone and said there are flakes in the tank. Your carb is probably not clean either going by other things wrong. Using old fuel too (month old) to me it's not a well looked after saw. If it were me I would have it in bits checking everything and replacing rubber parts. It's the only way you'll be confident it's a reliable saw. And use pure fuel in a can not the pump crap. Sthil and husqvarna have their own brand of fuel, I use Aspen you may not have that where you are? It costs more but saves in the long run. Good luck.
 

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