050 051 075 076 Info Thread

[William Balaska]

I'll have to get back to you but there is a replacement triggering unit from Stihl.
Two dealers had 075s for customers with no spark.
Fixed both of them.
Don't know if it is common knowledge and if it is......oh well. $40 I think.

U can't use a nova module on an electronic ignition of the later model 051's-76's due to more than one flywheel magnet, but u can use the later model external trigger which used to be about $40 if they still can be ordered. I've had many of these and they are at the top of my list as my favorites.

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

Great thread with some good info.
.... a lot of good info on the ignition setups.

.... there's been no info on oil pump drives. Large, small, 7 tooth, 8 tooth and pin vs tab.

I'm surprised the oil pump and oil pump drives subject doesn't come up more often considering the variations and lack of specific detail on them...especially with respect to the LACK of interchangeability between the older and newer ones with various clutch drum/rim setups for the 051 in particular.

I've been looking for a road map there for some time now and have come up empty with the exception of noting differences among the various parts on ebay and elsewhere. And finding the actual part you NEED to fix an olier problem is pretty tricky all by itself.

One pin drive plate?

Two pin drive plate?

10 o'clock and 2 o'clock pins for the two pin drive, or 9 o'clock and 3 o'clock?

Tabbed drive plate?

Blank with holes?

New "replacement" lug drive worm setup with new "replacement" style pump shaft?

Spur drive?

Rim drive?

7 tooth?

8 tooth?

3/8"?

.404?

1/2"?

I believe I'm close to sorting it all out, but would sure appreciate anyone's input who already has. All I know for sure is the newer "replacement kit" from folks like HLSupply (and Stihl for that matter) will only work on certain versions of 051 even though they're touted as being "replacements" for both the 051 and 076. A Stihl dealer will also try to tell you that's the style of replacement item from their distributor when it clearly is not a universal replacement/upgrade by any means (at least not for all 051's). And the pump shafts are different animals among different variations of the saws as well. Not quite as complicated as the variety of worm drive setups, but ya still need to know what fits with what from the drive gear on the pump shaft all the way out to the clutch drum for everything to work right, or at all.

Anyone here a guru on this subject? Or am I actually the one writing the book on it so far?

TIA for any enlightenment from anyone.

 

[kc4sfe]

I have a TS 760 made in Brazil I'm trying to convert. How can I tell if it has an oil pump installed? It has a line and pickup in the oil tank already....

Thanks...

Sent from my intellectually challenged "smartphone".....

 

[sefh3]

I have a TS 760 made in Brazil I'm trying to convert. How can I tell if it has an oil pump installed? It has a line and pickup in the oil tank already....

Thanks...

Sent from my intellectually challenged "smartphone".....

When looking at the saw from the top on clutch side there should be a black lever to adjust the floe. Does it have it?

 

[kc4sfe]

I will check when I get home but I don't think it does.....

Sent from my intellectually challenged "smartphone".....

 

[sefh3]

Also look in the front of the saw by the clutch and see if the oiler is behind the block.

 

[kc4sfe]

Well.... no oiler but I think I have found a crankcase with one in it. Thanks for all the help.

Sent from my intellectually challenged "smartphone".....

 

[Duke Thieroff]

I'm surprised the oil pump and oil pump drives subject doesn't come up more often considering the variations and lack of specific detail on them...especially with respect to the LACK of interchangeability between the older and newer ones with various clutch drum/rim setups for the 051 in particular.

I've been looking for a road map there for some time now and have come up empty with the exception of noting differences among the various parts on ebay and elsewhere. And finding the actual part you NEED to fix an olier problem is pretty tricky all by itself.

One pin drive plate?

Two pin drive plate?

10 o'clock and 2 o'clock pins for the two pin drive, or 9 o'clock and 3 o'clock?

Tabbed drive plate?

Blank with holes?

New "replacement" lug drive worm setup with new "replacement" style pump shaft?

Spur drive?

Rim drive?

7 tooth?

8 tooth?

3/8"?

.404?

1/2"?

I believe I'm close to sorting it all out, but would sure appreciate anyone's input who already has. All I know for sure is the newer "replacement kit" from folks like HLSupply (and Stihl for that matter) will only work on certain versions of 051 even though they're touted as being "replacements" for both the 051 and 076. A Stihl dealer will also try to tell you that's the style of replacement item from their distributor when it clearly is not a universal replacement/upgrade by any means (at least not for all 051's). And the pump shafts are different animals among different variations of the saws as well. Not quite as complicated as the variety of worm drive setups, but ya still need to know what fits with what from the drive gear on the pump shaft all the way out to the clutch drum for everything to work right, or at all.

Anyone here a guru on this subject? Or am I actually the one writing the book on it so far?

TIA for any enlightenment from anyone.

I only had one to rip apart today and I thought I had 2.

Attached are the pictures from the process of removal, i hope this may help you!




I also sent a pump drive and some clutch shims over to Lane, maybe he can contribute a pic or two if it helps you.


Chris

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

You're the man, Duke. The effort is much appreciated.

That's the setup I'm dealing with already. The issue is finding the right spur style clutch drum or rim drive that goes with that style worm drive using the 9 o'clock and 3 'clock pin style driveplate. These oilers (like your pics) are the ones that are hardest to find the clutch components for, not to mention a replacement pin drive driveplate. Stihl actually offered just the replacement pins for a time before transitioning to the lug style worm drive as the upgraded "replacement", which it is clearly not for most 051's contrary to the marketing claims.

Have any clutch drums or rims that fit that pin drive arrangement?

 

[Venomvpr900]

Can these oil pumps be upgraded or modified to flow more oil?

 

[Yukon Stihl]

You're the man, Duke. The effort is much appreciated.

That's the setup I'm dealing with already. The issue is finding the right spur style clutch drum or rim drive that goes with that style worm drive using the 9 o'clock and 3 'clock pin style driveplate. These oilers (like your pics) are the ones that are hardest to find the clutch components for, not to mention a replacement pin drive driveplate. Stihl actually offered just the replacement pins for a time before transitioning to the lug style worm drive as the upgraded "replacement", which it is clearly not for most 051's contrary to the marketing claims.

Have any clutch drums or rims that fit that pin drive arrangement?

Hi Pogo
Could you drill the clutch face that sits against the the pin style driveplate and add the pins?
Thomas

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

Hi Pogo
Could you drill the clutch face that sits against the the pin style driveplate and add the pins?
Thomas

That's some damned hard steel, man!!! It may be the way I hafta go for the pin drive setup if all else fails, though. There's an old school NAPA machine shop near me that would probably do it for $10 ~ $15. Probably the easiest way out if I can't find what I need otherwise. Would also be the simple way to convert to 3/8's from the current .404 arrangement.

I am still intrigued by the idea of converting the pin setup to the lug setup on one of these older cases, which in my particular situation would involve a non-OEM crank seal, some honing of the inside diameter surface of the lugged worm drive, and what I believe would need to be a modified 'O' ring arrangement to seal the newer style pump shaft. Hardly the easiest solution, but if it worked would be a cool one for these older cases and probably only cost around $30 total.

 

[Duke Thieroff]

That's some damned hard steel, man!!! It may be the way I hafta go for the pin drive setup if all else fails, though. There's an old school NAPA machine shop near me that would probably do it for $10 ~ $15. Probably the easiest way out if I can't find what I need otherwise. Would also be the simple way to convert to 3/8's from the current .404 arrangement.

I am still intrigued by the idea of converting the pin setup to the lug setup on one of these older cases, which in my particular situation would involve a non-OEM crank seal, some honing of the inside diameter surface of the lugged worm drive, and what I believe would need to be a modified 'O' ring arrangement to seal the newer style pump shaft. Hardly the easiest solution, but if it worked would be a cool one for these older cases and probably only cost around $30 total.

Dropped you a couple PMs Poge.

Take a look at the pictures I sent you in em.


I may be able to get you squared away.


Chris

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

Can these oil pumps be upgraded or modified to flow more oil?

Not aware of any modifications to increase oil flow...not that there isn't one out there somewhere. They should handle oil flow for a 36" bar. Make sure the gears aren't worn on the worm drive or pump shaft. Also dbl. check the vent/valve for funk. Old style is in the cap, newer style is a press fit valve in the case. Last but not least on the pin drive setup, check for wear or a busted pin.

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

Dropped you a couple PMs Poge.

Take a look at the pictures I sent you in em.


I may be able to get you squared away.


Chris

Thanks, Chris. I'll catch up with ya in a few.

 

[Yukon Stihl]

Hi Pogo
I used to have access to some good bits,but no more.
Thanks for the time you are putting in on this,i have a Big Box O 075/076 that i will try and get at least 1 076 out of.If i had the time now i would dig through it to see if i could add anything.Been watching this thread to get ready for the puzzle.
Thomas

 

[Duke Thieroff]

Thanks, Chris. I'll catch up with ya in a few.

Might make you happy, or be a bust!

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

Dropped you a couple PMs Poge.

Take a look at the pictures I sent you in em.


I may be able to get you squared away.


Chris

Do you have the worm drive for the drive plate in the pic below? (That's the one I call the 10 o'clock / 1 o'clock version.) And how far do the pins extend through that plate? Or don't they?

Here's what I'm currently working with...none of which really goes with the other except the 9 o'clock / 3 o'clock worm and pin drive. Rim drive won't accept that pin configuration. As you can see, the clutch drum spline is also the type used for the lug style worm which really wouldn't matter if there's a 10 o'clock / 1 o'clock drive setup involved. You can also clearly see the difference in diameter between the two styles of worms relative to the version/vintage of case they're designed for. BTW, the new style pump shaft is actually installed and is how I got the saw, so I do have all the pump pieces/parts...I think. Haven't pulled it completely apart myself to check yet...just goin' by what the previous guy told me before he threw in the towel on it.



​

 

[Duke Thieroff]

Now this one here is another variation

 

[Duke Thieroff]

Poge,

I've sent pictures of all of the 051 related to what were talking about, at least the stuff I know I have.

If it were mine and I was dead set on getting it oiling I would take that work gear over to the machine shop and have it drilled so it can accept both types of pin drives.

God, what a complicated deal those oilers are.

If I had em both in front of me it would make a lot more sense!