050 051 075 076 Info Thread

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Thanks! I do have a new mechanic, and he just happens to be my Stihl parts guy! He was always 10$/hr more expensive, so I chose to buy from him, and when I needed someone to look at my saw when I couldn't figure it out, I took it to the cheaper guy. As mentioned before "I'm a man... and I can change... if I have to... I guess". Just cose me about two hundred bucks to learn the lesson!

The 051 is sure happy now. Have it out milling a few times/week. I know the site somewhat frowns upon it, but anyone who is interested in checking out stock some nice west coast stock, google my company name. Not trying to sell anything, just trying to show off some west coast wood!

Only issue I have now is that the clutch sometimes gums up and catches the sprocket during idle. Can I just lube up the springs or should I replace them altogether? Also, the top loading gas tank is somewhat less advantageous, as the line only seems to suck about two thirds of the tank when she's on her side. After the frustrations I've been through with it though, I'm just happy to here her purring. Was bucking 24" Cypress with it the other day, and the relatively low rmp/high torque was music to my ears!

Now onto my 200t that's been in pieces for 8 months...
 
Thanks! I do have a new mechanic, and he just happens to be my Stihl parts guy! He was always 10$/hr more expensive, so I chose to buy from him, and when I needed someone to look at my saw when I couldn't figure it out, I took it to the cheaper guy. As mentioned before "I'm a man... and I can change... if I have to... I guess". Just cose me about two hundred bucks to learn the lesson!

The 051 is sure happy now. Have it out milling a few times/week. I know the site somewhat frowns upon it, but anyone who is interested in checking out stock some nice west coast stock, google my company name. Not trying to sell anything, just trying to show off some west coast wood!

Only issue I have now is that the clutch sometimes gums up and catches the sprocket during idle. Can I just lube up the springs or should I replace them altogether? Also, the top loading gas tank is somewhat less advantageous, as the line only seems to suck about two thirds of the tank when she's on her side. After the frustrations I've been through with it though, I'm just happy to here her purring. Was bucking 24" Cypress with it the other day, and the relatively low rmp/high torque was music to my ears!

Now onto my 200t that's been in pieces for 8 months...
I know what you mean about paying for lessons in life. It keeps on happening so I've accepted it. My feeling is, if after I spend money on a lesson of life, does the end result bring me a negative or a pleasure such as having a project saw run and work. With chainsaws it's usually pleasure so I keep on working on them.

When you are milling, you mentioned the clutch gums up. I'm not totally clear on what's happening with your saw. I just looked at my 051 to try and see what your describing. Do you mill without you clutch cover on? My last milling work was on cedar logs with my Stihl 045 Super. I left the clutch cover off and used washers on the bar studs. I put tape over an outside oiler hole to keep the oil directed to the bar groove where it's needed. Kept things pretty clean and lubed so I didn't have to worry about much problem with my clutch. I don't like to put any oil on the clutch parts as that would make centrifugal force fling oil onto the clutch drum and cause slippage. Only thing in a clutch for lube should be your bearing.

Arrow13
 
That makes sense re: lubing the clutch.

With my saw, when I set it down and its just sitting idling, sometimes the chain will engage (not from a high idle setting). You can kind of hear that the shoes are catching the drum, causing the chain to roll. Just seems that the springs aren't 'relaxing' fully at idle. Doesn't happen every time, but often enough to notice.
 
That makes sense re: lubing the clutch.

With my saw, when I set it down and its just sitting idling, sometimes the chain will engage (not from a high idle setting). You can kind of hear that the shoes are catching the drum, causing the chain to roll. Just seems that the springs aren't 'relaxing' fully at idle. Doesn't happen every time, but often enough to notice.
OK,
As long as the inside of your clutch drum is very clean, not a worn bearing or worn crank where the clutch bearing rides (feel for any wobble) then that leads to your clutch. Look at your clutch parts when not running, look at the gap between the clutch shoes then watch them when it idles. There could be spring wear in the shoes where the hooks connect and allowing them to have more freedom to move closer to the drum, depending on the style of course. I assume that the clutch is fairly clean and all parts are free to move and they should. ie; no rust, etc.
Something else to look at is the sqaureness of the shoe edges that make contact with the clutch. Stand it on end and see if it stands at a 90 degree to your bench top. Kind of a side issue but thought I'd mention it as I recently saw this on one of my Husky saws.
If you change out your spring(s), I recommend a little tool made just for changing springs for about 10 bucks of fleabay. It's a tough little hook with a white palm grip knob on the other end. Saves a lot of effort and bloody body parts.

My vision is declining a bit so I like using a LED headlamp while working in the evenings. I can see better that way then in the daylight, plus I have both hands to work with.
Let me know what you find.

Arrow13
 
Hi guys I received a 076 super for my birthday and after going through the service manuals I realised I didn't have any of the servicing tools let alone the tools that would normally come with it. Anybody know how I might go about getting a basic saw kit for the 076
 
Hi guys I received a 076 super for my birthday and after going through the service manuals I realised I didn't have any of the servicing tools let alone the tools that would normally come with it. Anybody know how I might go about getting a basic saw kit for the 076

Nice gift! FYI, my first project was the same, 076 super. I got it at a garage sale for 10 buck. It was beat up bad and I had no idea what it really was. What a lesson it became. I used this website as my go-to resource for most all of my direction to fix this beast of a saw. It was worth it. The cost was high but I learned a lot thanks to many who helped with the guidance you will need. Old posts have lost many photos from a hacker. Don't give up. There are many dedicated folks on here that will help you as they did me. My saw runs great and am proud to get it running and love the power and torque. Wow!
Your request for a basic saw kit is vague. You will not need all of the servicing tools if you plan to do like most of us as hobbyists, but...it's all in what you feel is right. Take your time and ask questions while you begin your quest to get and keep your saw running well. Good luck and keep us posted. As always, we all love photos.
 
Your clutch problems are probably a chunk of the fiber shoe came off and sometimes falls between the shoes at rest idling. Milling beats on the clutch and I find more often than not the fiber shoes messed up when I break them down. You'll need a piston stopper and remember the clutch nut is reverse thread, right is loose. Also a clutch wrench comes in handy. Yes Pogie I finally bought one! Lol!
 
s-l225.jpg


This is extremely helpful for removing clutches on these saws.
 
Yes I resisted for many years until I had a customers clutch come loose before I shipped it. I decided then that I must have the tool to ensure proper torque on the spider. Useful indeed!!!!
 
That's it!! Thank you!!

So I have scoured the internet looking for this part. I cant find it anywhere. Any ideas? I see newer styles like tube and screw but would like the original part. Id buy 5 if I could find them, lol.
 
No thank you just glad I could give back

Dave That 076 Super is a great saw! Do you have the quickstop on it? Also some have said the super is a gimmick on the 076 but the intake stack is longer and the carb is bigger. Even though the stats say the same hp for both saws there is bigger performance with the Super! Trust Stihl!!!
 
There's another member on this forum called alexcagle he was saying that the saw is still be made in " Brazil" and that most parts should still be available even though they may take some time to be posted. I also think that he has the quickstop your talking about I will try a forward the picture.
Regards DaveL
 
s-l225.jpg


This is extremely helpful for removing clutches on these saws.

I bought the whole set from Bryce (customshainsawparts) that covers all the saws using this type of clutch. Was like $38 for all three sizes and a helluva bargain. Don't see em listed anymore..., no surprise there for the price!
 
There's another member on this forum called alexcagle he was saying that the saw is still be made in " Brazil" and that most parts should still be available even though they may take some time to be posted. I also think that he has the quickstop your talking about I will try a forward the picture.
Regards DaveL

Yes a lot of these saws are now made in Brazil. I won't say anything about the quality as I really don't know. I doubt that my needed part is made as it was specifically for a TS to chainsaw conversion, I believe. I don't see the vent on the newer saws. I like to convert the TS because it has no chain rash, the cases are in perfect shape with no stripped holes. True they need all new p&c and all the oiling stuff and bar stuff but your starting off with an almost perfect case which you never get with an old saw. I also have just started powder coating and am excited about the look. Way more durable than paint. Many more hours in prep time but I enjoy bringing these saws to life in near perfect shape. Working on one now. image.jpeg
 

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