084 Differences and Info

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I'm currently looking for a 084 to rebuild. I'm finding that there are a few differences between saws. I'm going to make some assumptions here. Correct me where I'm wrong.

  1. All tanks/rear handles the same.
  2. Filters, carb bases, and filter covers
    1. Standard duty filter that screws on similiar to my 260. Does not use a filter base. Uses the larger filter cover. There are two interchangeable filter covers, one with an extra black flap and one without. What's the black flap for?
    2. HD filter similiar to my 460. Uses a filter base and a smaller filter cover. Standard filter cover cannot be used. There appear to be two difference HD filters. What's the difference?
  3. All use the same engine shroud.
  4. All use the same ignition coils.
  5. Two different flywheels. One for the standard and one for the artic model.
  6. All starters are the same.
  7. Two different bar covers. Internal guard no longer available for the older version.
  8. Two or three different mufflers and covers. What's the differences?

Please point out any differences I've not yet picked up on.
 
there were two coils and two flywheels for the non artic models. The newer coils being a 3 pole. Both work fine. The coils need matched to the flywheels.

the short clutch cover with internal chip guard is more common in these parts. The newer "full wrap" cover is the replacement from what I have been told. It is the extrended cover that has the rubber chip gaurd at the back.

The engine hood or shroud is the same. The recoil is the same.

The non HD air filter set is just that and kinda sucks imo. To convert this style to the HD filter, you need the HD filter cover and HD filter base.

They also made an HD convserion for the non HD filter setup. Don't think this is still available..could be wrong on this one.

There are two mufflers, and three covers that I have seen.

The more common (that I have seen) looks like a 660, 460, 440, etc with internal baffle. This typically has the ribbed front cover as the stock 066, 046, 044 does.

The version with the screened meshed holes on the cover typically has tubes inside the muffler. Never ran this setup, but it looks more restrictive than the more open version.

The thrid cover is a meshed cover on the std muffler back. don't know if this was a conversion, but only seen one this way.

oil pumps are the same, carbs are a tilly HS, linkage, etc seem the same.

I think that is the main differences, the rest are minor, if any.
 
I think Steve just about covered it. Mine has a muffler a little bit different from the three standard that Steve mentioned. It has a pipe about a half inch in diameter coming out the side where the factory hole would be on a 044 or 046 and just has the cage inside. Might be a home made muffler mod but it looks factory and I would think that a muff mod would have been considerably larger.

General consensus is the 3 pole coils are more desirable as is the HD filter set-up. It's easy enough to convert it over if you get one with the old style filter. Just need a filter base, new cover, and of course the new filter. You will also need the two screws that hold the filter base on you can't use the old ones from the old style filter.

I would advise you to check over any saw you are thinking of buying real good, parts for these things are not cheap.

Speaking of parts if anybody has a 3/4 wrap or 1/2 wrap handle in good shape I'd really like to have it, might even work a trade for my full wrap.
 
There are also two different clutch drums and oil pump drives. If you need to replace the old notched drum, the pump drive has to change also.

Yes,,, be careful; don't buy a basket case. Parts are very expensive... I put a new crank, bearings and piston in my 088. Wow....$$$$$
 
What major parts are obsolete? How about the following?

  1. HD filter base
  2. HD filter cover
  3. Model plate on engine shroud
  4. HD filter
  5. Tank/rear handle

I just called the dealer to order some other parts. All the parts above appear to still be available. The tank/handle is $228!
 
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What major parts are obsolete? How about the following?

  1. HD filter base
  2. HD filter cover
  3. Model plate on engine shroud
  4. HD filter
  5. Tank/rear handle

I just called the dealer to order some other parts. All the parts above appear to still be available. The tank/handle is $228!

I just got a real nice tank for $70.00 on fleabay, another one on there right now Brand New for 100.00. If you can be patient you can find some deals. I just bought a NOS cylinder/piston kit for I think around $250.00, I didn't really need it yet but I'm gonna port mine and wanted a back-up just in case. ;) I can tell you that the top cover is about 55.00 with the tag and all already attached from the dealer. Look at your IPL's before scrounging for little parts, sometimes it's only a few more dollars to get a whole new part from the dealer than to scrounge for all the little pieces for the part from fleabay.

Doing a total restoration on mine a little at a time, and have now bought all the plastic new the only cosmetic items I have left to get are the front handlebar and the clutch cover. Still need to get crank bearings, con rod bearing, oil hose, and a gasket/seal set and then shes going back together. I can’t wait I’m really starting to miss this saw, every time I run Kevin’s it gets me a little more motivated on my own project.
 
Like Steve said,

Except mine have Tilly HT carbs. :rock:

Not HS here.
 
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More 84 BEAST stuff.

Started with one x 084 2 years ago .Now believe me when i say it was'nt my intention -I now have three. :dizzy:
My arms are getting shorter and my pockets deaper.Full restorations !!!!

Looks like I'll end up with one completely new except plastics only rejuvinated.

Bisnelling - was just going to give you thread for tank handle but saw that you bought it already.Hope you got long arms for the rest of the story.

THEY ARE ONE OF THE BEST SAWS STIHL EVER MADE IN THEIR CLASS.
2 OF THE 3 HAD BLOCKED TANK VENTS AND SCORED PISTON /CYL .

Q. HOW MUCH WOULD BLOCKED TANK VENTS CONTRIBUTE TO LEANING OUT?
( Have done forum search.)
Also read on a number of threads where saws are cutting out.Some have suggested loosening the petrol cap.Is this just a prelude examination to indicate a blocked tank vent.Recently ran my 66 in 35degree plus heat,
noticed pressure(vacuum?) release when opening to re-fuel.Checked vent ,it's allowing air but don't think it's allowing at a high enough rate.Think this could be something to beware of in hot weather or prolonged use ??? Realize the remedy is relatively simple . Would hate us/me to sour anymore pockets.
Feedback appreciated.

STIHL 084AV

:chainsaw: :chainsaw: :chainsaw: :cheers:
 
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A bad tank vent will cook a piston, but only if the user is not "in tune" with the saw. The symptoms are usually obvious.. like.. won't come back to idle from full power "normally", leaning out after a few minutes of cutting, but normal if the tank is opened etc..

The biggest problem I see is users messing with the carb in the quest for "more RPM" , chasing the limiter and over-leaning it. Leave it rich - it cuts better anyhow.


Pressure in tank is usually due to the vibration of the gas and goes away within in a few minutes of turning off. Vacuum is a blocked vent - the useage of gas is easily made up by the air path around the two grub screws. The vent tube can become deformed and shrink over time - just replace it and clean both grub screws.
 
Andy (Lakeside) didnt all 084's come with HT's for carbs?

I have never seen a different series carb on the 084 yet STOCK, like listed in a above post.
 
I just need a saw already. Trying to nail one down is proving difficult. Here I am buying parts and I don't even have a saw yet!:chainsawguy: I'd like a nearly complete saw with a good crank, preferably. Bad P&C isn't a big deal. Dirty and scratched up doesn't matter either. Matter of fact, I'd rather buy a fixer-upper and do it up myself. Id just rather not have to piece the whole thing together. Of course, if the price was right, I'd consider that. I've got leads on a couple but haven't been able to nail anything down.
 
Brad I know where there is one that needed a p+c from what I was told for $400 I think. It runs, but have never laid eyes on it yet.

By the way I have another 084 in route right now. :hmm3grin2orange:
 
Hey BL,
This is the first cut after I got my 084 running.

attachment.php


The saw was given to me with a toasted top end. The crank was OK, so I put new seals and a piston and jug on it, after full tear down and cleaning. I put on the newer carb, a HT 7A, which has a part load enrichment jet, and a main nozzle bypass jet, along with feeding the low side from the high side, which I guess is better since most of the carbs STIHL uses on saws now are set up this way. I put on the big loop starter handle from a suggestion someone mentioned here on AS, and when I went to start it the first time it nearly tore my hand off, even with the deco valve open. So I pulled the flywheel and set it on the second keyway, since I didn't remember which one it was in when I tore it down, and then it started right up!!!! If you get a complete saw, be sure to mark the flywheel before you tear it down.
I used the muffler that has two tubes internally that come out the side, and it is plenty loud and runs well, so I don't feel any need to change it.
The manual says 10,500 is the top speed and it will tune up to 12,000 real easy, but I set it back to 11,000 to run it in to be safe.
I ran about 8 tanks through it cutting up a big oak with a 48" bar and full skip chain, and it worked great. I posted some pics in a thread here:
http://www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?t=56835

I have a box of extra parts from a donor engine and some other odds and ends, so let me know if you need anything. I think I have both filter set ups, so I can take pics if you need them.
Good luck on the hunt.
This saw is a blast to cut with!
 
So Brad,
what are you planning on doing with one of them heavy ole beasts? Got plans for it already?:)
 
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