162SE scored piston

[blsnelling]

Saws are easier to repair than mowers.

But probably less forgiving

 

[MarkEagleUSA]

You can check the bearings. There should not be ANY vertical play at the crankshaft ends and they should spin smoothly.

I checked the bearings and there doesn't seem to be any play. As for spinning smoothly, I think they are but since I don't know what good vs. bad is I can't be sure.

You need to read up on using acid to remove transfer. Even a small amont left behind can render a rebuilt useless in just a few minutes.

All that information can be found here?

Made my first mistake... I was trying to take the piston off and launched the circlip to the other side of the garage. Only a major miracle will bring it back. Hopefully I can get new ones?

 

[TK]

Circlips are readily available.

 

[spike60]

Circlips can certainly attain impressive velocities. :msp_razz:

 

[MarkEagleUSA]

I'm hoping to stop after work and pick up some muriatic acid to try and clean up the cylinder. If that works, I'll probably just replace the pistion and go from there. Does a new piston come with a wrist pin and clips?

 

[nmurph]

Circlips can certainly attain impressive velocities. :msp_razz:

Yep, but it's the unknown vectors and trajectories that are killer.

I'm hoping to stop after work and pick up some muriatic acid to try and clean up the cylinder. If that works, I'll probably just replace the pistion and go from there. Does a new piston come with a wrist pin and clips?

Yes, and read up on deleting the base gasket.

 

[MarkEagleUSA]

read up on deleting the base gasket.

Is that advisable on a saw this old?

 

[Cantdog]

I just read your whole thread......these are a great family of saws to learn on.....spike says the 162se cyl is the same as a the 630 Jonsered....I would get a new Meteor piston for the 630 (Way easier to find) if your cyl will clean up....doesn't look to bad at all....if you can't hang a fingernail when the cyl is clean you are good to go. There is one other thing that has not been mentioned yet......you say you recently replaced the oil pump with an aftermarket one.....did you replace the oring that seals the pump to the case? What about the crank seal? Did it come with the pump body?.....this oring is a great place to develop an air leak.....the flywheel side has a seal carrier which is also oringed to the case.....replace BOTH the seals and orings on BOTH sides before you start the saw again. Both these orings are Husqvarna specific....not auto parts store type...must be had from a Husky dealer.

As far as removing the base gasket.....this won't hurt anything as long a the squish is measured properly.....can't be guessed at....

You also mentioned updating you crank to the later fine thread.....this is another level of work and tooling but a worthwhile endeavor IMHO....the old coarse thread clutches are getting very hard to find that have not been overtightened and the nut head cracked....also there are a number of different fine thread clutches to choose from and by contrast the coarse thread clutch is the only choice there is....

Good luck!!....there is much help here for you to draw from......and as Niko mentioned this is a historic, rather short run Husqvarna saw and well worth any repairs needed especially if it has sentimental value to you too!!

 

[MarkEagleUSA]

I just read your whole thread......these are a great family of saws to learn on.....spike says the 162se cyl is the same as a the 630 Jonsered....I would get a new Meteor piston for the 630 (Way easier to find) if your cyl will clean up....doesn't look to bad at all....if you can't hang a fingernail when the cyl is clean you are good to go.

Thanks for the tip.

There is one other thing that has not been mentioned yet......you say you recently replaced the oil pump with an aftermarket one.....did you replace the oring that seals the pump to the case? What about the crank seal? Did it come with the pump body?.....this oring is a great place to develop an air leak.....the flywheel side has a seal carrier which is also oringed to the case.....replace BOTH the seals and orings on BOTH sides before you start the saw again. Both these orings are Husqvarna specific....not auto parts store type...must be had from a Husky dealer.

The new pump had the seal and o-ring in place. I'm really thinking the new pump may be the cause of this. It's similar to but not exactly the same as the original one. If the o-rings are still available I'll get a few and go back to the old pump.

Good luck!!....there is much help here for you to draw from......and as Niko mentioned this is a historic, rather short run Husqvarna saw and well worth any repairs needed especially if it has sentimental value to you too!!

I definitely want to get it fixed the proper way!

 

[MarkEagleUSA]

you say you recently replaced the oil pump with an aftermarket one.....did you replace the oring that seals the pump to the case? What about the crank seal? Did it come with the pump body?.....this oring is a great place to develop an air leak.....the flywheel side has a seal carrier which is also oringed to the case.....replace BOTH the seals and orings on BOTH sides before you start the saw again. Both these orings are Husqvarna specific....not auto parts store type...must be had from a Husky dealer.

The new pump had the seal and o-ring in place. I'm really thinking the new pump may be the cause of this. It's similar to but not exactly the same as the original one. If the o-rings are still available I'll get a few and go back to the old pump.

Ok... everybody line up to take turns hitting me with a shovel! :msp_blushing:

I'm an idiot and ruined my pride and joy. Not only did I not get the seal on properly (it looks like it folded over), but the o-ring was shaved pretty deep in at least 2 spots. Had I been better at this repair stuff, I would have recognized that the saw wasn't right when I first fired it up. Instead, I kept leaning her out until she ran better, all the while sucking air through the seal/oring. Sometimes I just hate myself. :msp_cursing:

So... I now need a piston/wrist pin/circlips, a base gasket, a new oil pump seal and o-ring, and detailed instructions on how to install the #$% oil pump without destroying the seal or o-ring. That is assuming I can get the parts. The only thing I've been able to find thus far is the o-ring (p/n 740 42 21-00 which does NOT match the IPL I have: 297 04 65-02). The seal (p/n 296 52 59-16 or 296 52 59-60) seems to be NLA. And I have no idea where to look for a piston.

As for that flywheel side seal carrier, I haven't been able to find it or the seal and o-ring in any of the IPL's I've looked at. If I leave the bottom end alone (just fix the pump side stuff), do I/should I even worry about the flywheel side?

And all you guys have been telling me I could do this... :dunno:

 

[SawTroll]

....
As for that flywheel side seal carrier, I haven't been able to find it or the seal and o-ring in any of the IPL's I've looked at. If I leave the bottom end alone (just fix the pump side stuff), do I/should I even worry about the flywheel side?

.....

Nothing indicates that there is an urgent need to do that, as far as I can see?

 

[MarkEagleUSA]

Hey Niko... s/n 1621132###... is that 1981, 32nd week, or 1981, 13th week?

 

[SawTroll]

Hey Niko... s/n 1621132###... is that 1981, 32nd week, or 1981, 13th week?

Actually, no - as far as I know.

That number is older than those that can easily be dated, so I can just say it is pre-1983.

 

[Cantdog]

Ok... everybody line up to take turns hitting me with a shovel! :msp_blushing:

I'm an idiot and ruined my pride and joy. Not only did I not get the seal on properly (it looks like it folded over), but the o-ring was shaved pretty deep in at least 2 spots. Had I been better at this repair stuff, I would have recognized that the saw wasn't right when I first fired it up. Instead, I kept leaning her out until she ran better, all the while sucking air through the seal/oring. Sometimes I just hate myself. :msp_cursing:

So... I now need a piston/wrist pin/circlips, a base gasket, a new oil pump seal and o-ring, and detailed instructions on how to install the #$% oil pump without destroying the seal or o-ring. That is assuming I can get the parts. The only thing I've been able to find thus far is the o-ring (p/n 740 42 21-00 which does NOT match the IPL I have: 297 04 65-02). The seal (p/n 296 52 59-16 or 296 52 59-60) seems to be NLA. And I have no idea where to look for a piston.

As for that flywheel side seal carrier, I haven't been able to find it or the seal and o-ring in any of the IPL's I've looked at. If I leave the bottom end alone (just fix the pump side stuff), do I/should I even worry about the flywheel side?

And all you guys have been telling me I could do this... :dunno:

Yes do both sides.......now and get it over with.....even if they are not leaking now they will soon........I mean how many yrs should a seal last??....25-30 yrs is probably about it..I would think.....

Don't beat yourself up over it........search, read and learn......it takes time and a willingness to learn....it is all here...just gotta find it.. According to spike60 the 162 is next of kin to the Jonsered 630...an outstanding 61+cc saw!! Parts for these saws are readily available.....the family is so large and well liked the aftermarket has kept stuff flowing...and most stuff can still be had through Husqvarna/Jonsered dealers (like spike60).....shameless plug....I know.....but he will go the extra mile for an old saw...this I know and hold as a truth....

 

[MarkEagleUSA]

Don't beat yourself up over it........search, read and learn......it takes time and a willingness to learn....it is all here...just gotta find it..

Thanks for the encouragement. :msp_thumbup:

According to spike60 the 162 is next of kin to the Jonsered 630...an outstanding 61+cc saw!! Parts for these saws are readily available.....the family is so large and well liked the aftermarket has kept stuff flowing...and most stuff can still be had through Husqvarna/Jonsered dealers (like spike60).....shameless plug....I know.....but he will go the extra mile for an old saw...this I know and hold as a truth....

I spent some time last night looking at various Husky and Jred IPL's. I found what I think are valid p/n's for what I need on a 1996 630 IPL. I'll compile a list of what I think I need and get in touch with Bob.

 

[KiwiOilBoiler]

There seems to be two distinct 61's, around about pre & post 1986, and the early version seems very closely related to the 162. Is there a distinct change in the 630 versions too?

Adam.

 

[spike60]

There's more like 3 61's. Early white top, gray top, and orange top. (later white tops were about the same as the gray tops)

162's can more or less be viewed as "early" with the top piece being held on with a single screw like the early 61 white tops. "Late" 162's had the 3 screw top cover. I think the change was around 1978/79? No other real significant differences. Mufflers are a little different, but are of course interchangeable. Some, maybe just the last year, had two rings according to the IPL's. IPL's can be a bit confusing on these saws.

 

[SawTroll]

.... Is there a distinct change in the 630 versions too?

Adam.

There were changes when it became the Super, and again for the Super II of course.

 

[SawTroll]

There's more like 3 61's. Early white top, gray top, and orange top. (later white tops were about the same as the gray tops)

I'm sure you are right, but in addition the top end part numbers changed around 1986/87. That may of course not have meant much?

162's can more or less be viewed as "early" with the top piece being held on with a single screw like the early 61 white tops. "Late" 162's had the 3 screw top cover. I think the change was around 1978/79? No other real significant differences. Mufflers are a little different, but are of course interchangeable. Some, maybe just the last year, had two rings according to the IPL's. IPL's can be a bit confusing on these saws.

Yes, the only IPL where I found the two ring version is the 1980-12 (the last) one. :msp_smile:

 

[KiwiOilBoiler]

There were changes when it became the Super, and again for the Super II of course.

ST, is that specifically with reference to the p&c on the 630's?