2 diff ques. chain angles and bar prob

[skindaddy]

first question is i am trying to sharpen my dads chains they came of a stihl 16" 025 saw i believe which he uses on new saw just fine. i dont know what the degrees and angles are suppose to be for this chain i know its a 5/32, but dont know the rest for my oregon 511ax that i am just learning on?

2nd is a month ago i put on a new 20" bar on my husq and on the end the tip has a single rivet to hold the nose to the bar, ques. is is that nose suppose to be able to move freely up and down with no chain on it? it has a litttle divet where the 2 separate pcs come together that wasnt there before and i think its cause the tips move alot. didnt when new?

 

[TreeTangler]

Angles and degrees depend on the type and size of chain, wood being cut, and personal preference. Do you know what type of chain is one the 025?

 

[mainewoods]

pic?

 

[TreeTangler]

pic?

That would help as well. Try to get a pic of the face of the cutter, side view of the cutter, and a good pic of the drivers.

 

[Cheesecutter]

The nose piece shouldn't move once its riveted in place. The rivet must be inserted on a certain side and flattened on the other. As far as chains go, I sharpen mine at 35 degrees or I use the witness mark if the chain has one.

 

[TreeTangler]

The nose piece shouldn't move once its riveted in place. The rivet must be inserted on a certain side and flattened on the other. As far as chains go, I sharpen mine at 35 degrees or I use the witness mark if the chain has one.

The witness mark is usually a good reference but I have seen some chains without them and depending on what you're cutting, you can sometimes get much better performance with a different angle.

 

[Cheesecutter]

I figure since he is just learning it would be a good point to start.

 

[TreeTangler]

I figure since he is just learning it would be a good point to start.

You are very correct about that my good sir!

 

[Oldman47]

Look at the bar. It will be stamped .325 or 3/8. I seriously doubt an .404 chain pitch on a small Stihl saw like the 025 model.
Next look at the number next to a symbol like this ll it will be a number like .063 or .050 My 026 takes a .325 chain with a .063 but not all chains are alike. For my chain the nominal angle is 30º with no tilt like is used for some chains. Mine is specified as flat at 90º to the bar, but again it depends on which chain you have.

 

[Poston5]

I sharpen my .325 and 3/8 at 25 degrees and 60 tilt with 0 roll. They work well.

 

[hedge hog]

I have great luck with .325 at 32* and 55 tilt
the tilt at 55 removes the crouch of the cutter that your file rubs on and that part does no cutting
so in the field you can touch up a chain really sharp with a couple of strokes because the file is contacting the cutting edge of the cutter

 

[blades]

Nose piece of bar should not be flopping around- divets behind( rear edge of nose piece) likely on the main bar body indicate pretty high wear factor- maybe from tension the chain too tightly and or not enough bar oil or combination of both. best replace whole bar.
Chain sharpening 511 - 60 deg down angle and 30 deg across is the best starting point. Do not grind into the tie straps. wheel should be dressed to a u shape using the gauge that came with unit if you have it. Dressing stone also came with it. many short taps not one long push or you may burn the cutters- Turn them blue which removes the annealing ie hardness. 325 x3/8 would use the 1/8" wheel. there is also a gauge for the height of the depth gauges ( the spike in front of the tooth) that needs to be checked and it showing above gauge edge lowerd with a flat file taking care not to hit the tooth with edge of file ( best to grind edge of file smooth - reduces chance of mucking up sharp tooth.)

 

[lambs]

You can buy the proper flat file with smooth edges from your saw dealer to keep from dulling the cutters with the edge of the depth gauge file. sometimes you can find these files at Lowe's or Home Depot as part of a filing kit.