24 TON Brave Splitter Rebuild

[LowVolt]

So 4 years ago I traded a good running Husqvarna 61 chainsaw plus $175 for this log splitter. I only had $30 in the saw. The splitter was missing the airbox on it so you had to cover the carb with your had to get it to start. It ran good and split good. It had various small issues but nothing major. So I disassembled it sanded and painted it. The tongue was kind of sketchy so I welded a new one on with a 2" ball coupler. Also added some heavier chain and new tires. I replaced all high and low pressure hoses and got the airbox bolted back on the engine and working properly. Changed the oil with a new spark plug and air filter. All was good, well sort of. I used regular heater hose for the low pressure hose so hydraulic fluid was constantly seeping threw. Then about a month and a half ago I was splitting wood at my sisters house. All was fine until I moved the splitter. It was positioned on a slight incline. After about 10 minutes of running it seized. I opened the oil tank reservoir and it was bone dry. Please don't ask me how that happened because I honestly don't know. The only logical explanation is I did not put oil in it. I find that very hard for me to believe but that is the only explanation that makes sense. So I was on the hunt for a donor engine. Well a sweet deal on a Honda GX390 fell right in my lap at the right time. Just needed a new carb and this thing runs great. AND IT WAS A DIRECT BOLT ON!!!! I did no modifications to get it up and running on my splitter. So while it was apart I got the right hose and repainted a few parts. The energy control valve did not auto retract so I found this thread: http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/question-about-brave-logplitter.198521/ and I will be damned, it worked!

So here it is.......

Before



After

 

[LowVolt]

So here is my question. I was told the GX390 came off a pressure washer. When you start this thing cold, it will almost rip your fingers off once or twice before it starts. It starts in maybe four or five pulls. It idles great and throttles up great and runs the splitter great. And if you stop and restart it, does not rip your arm off. It only happens when you first start it (cold). I read that there was an auto decompression valve so I decided to check the compression. I read that it should be at 75 psi when you are trying to start if the auto decompression valve is working properly and it is reading 75 psi.

Any thoughts????

 

[wigglesworth]

Not sure about the honda's, but the big single cylinder briggs, you better make sure the valve lash is right or it'll break your arm off....

Nice looking splitter Rory. I'm jealous...

 

[LowVolt]

Thanks Jeremy.

Valve lash, is that just setting the intake and exhaust valves with a feeler gauge? Already found the specs and I believe they are dead nuts.

 

[R DeLawter]

Really looks nice all painted up.
Someone will come along with ideas on the motor.

 

[wigglesworth]

Thanks Jeremy.

Valve lash, is that just setting the intake and exhaust valves with a feeler gauge? Already found the specs and I believe they are dead nuts.

Yep. Set em to spec, but that said, some of the briggs you have to go a fuzz looser than spec.

 

[zogger]

Very nice resto!

 

[saxman]

I have a 26 ton Brave with the 8HP Briggs Intek. It has been a great splitter. If the Briggs ever has a serious issue a Honda goes in it's place


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Steve
Lincoln IdealArc 250
Lincoln SA200 1966 Redface

 

[LowVolt]

This is the engine I smoked....



Really sucks because it ran very strong. But I love Honda motors.

 

[saxman]

The Intek Briggs engines look like a copy of a Honda and so far it starts and runs as good as a Honda and it's 8 years old now. But a Honda goes on when it comes off


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Steve
Lincoln IdealArc 250
Lincoln SA200 1966 Redface

 

[Jerryv88]

13 hp is pretty big for a 4 stroke single with a recoil start. If the timing is a little advanced it can try to back up when it fires as you are pulling it. That can really put a hurt on your hand and arm. Sometimes your technique can help. Try pulling it very slowly through a compression cycle and then once you get it just past TDC, give it a good rip. That gives you at least a rotation and a half to get up enough speed to go through the next compression cycle and overcome the possibility of kicking back.

That is the same sort of thing that used to launch Harley riders before they got electric starters.

Jerry

 

[Big_Wood]

Yep. Set em to spec, but that said, some of the briggs you have to go a fuzz looser than spec.

looser is what will break your hand off LOL running them at spec will make that honda real easy to start, never had a briggs that didn't like them at spec either. i learned all this when i got my first lawn mower at age 12. was a husky royal 19 with the briggs. most adults couldn't start that thing. i remember making a few 40 year olds look like *****'s . i had one honda that was such a bear to start it was rediculous. adjusted the valves a few times with no luck. then started to notice high/low spots, then looked at the plastic camshaft and realized it caved in a few places. SOB ran like a million bucks and was real easy to start with a new cam.

 

[wigglesworth]

looser is what will break your hand off LOL running them at spec will make that honda real easy to start, never had a briggs that didn't like them at spec either.

Yea, your right. Tighter=mo-betta...

It's been a while since I messed with one. Last one was an electric start 15hp single. Starter wouldn't budge it with valves set to spec. Had to tighten em up a fuzz. Just a couple thou and she'd fire right up.

 

[tewyuanagu]

you better make sure the valve lash is right or it'll break your arm off.

 

[LowVolt]

I believe this is what I used to adjust/check valves....

Valve Adjustment

 

[LowVolt]

I have not pulled the flywheel yet. I guess that would be my next logical step? I mean once it get it cold started, IMHO it runs great. And starting it back up once warm it is fine. So could the timing still be messed up if it runs good?

Since messing with small engine stuff I typically always lightly pull the starter rope until it starts building compression, then give it a nice firm pull. Or in this case I did give it a lighter pull hoping not to pull my arm off. It still did it. I don't think it is a matter of to big of a motor, something just is not quite right.

 

[LowVolt]

So to remedy the issue what should I set the intake and exhaust valves to?

I am going to link this thread to the chainsaw forum to see if anyone else can shed a little light.

 

[lone wolf]

I have that same model Honda engine with thousands of hours on it. It starts on one or two pulls on warmer days maybe the carb is clogged with dirt there is mainjet in the middle that comes out with a bunch of holes that could clog then there is a jet for the low idle on the side that people miss.

 

[LowVolt]

I have that same model Honda engine with thousands of hours on it. It starts on one or two pulls on warmer days maybe the carb is clogged with dirt there is mainjet in the middle that comes out with a bunch of holes that could clog then there is a jet for the low idle on the side that people miss.

Carb is brand new oem.

 

[lone wolf]

http://www.djoca.com/honda/honda-gx390-valve-adjustment-specs/