262XP clutch needle bearing, spanner for clutch removal

[malk315]

Hi all-

Hope everyone had a very merry Christmas / enjoying holidays if yer not the Christamas type.

Was cutting with the 262 the other day and started having the engine just stop instead of the usual engine still running bogged fully when chain stops and engine puts all of it's power into a stopped clutch (you know the bogg sound where you can usually just let up to get her spinning again and maybe put less pressure on the dog if you are dogged in w/ bar buried)... Ok so I was having fun cutting oversized wood with the MMWS 262...

After doing that 5 or 6 times I stopped realizing something is probably up -- restarts were fine after pulling out of the wood so I know clutch not stuck. 372 did the rest of the work that day.

Took clutch cover off today on bench and found when rim floats anywhere not near perfect center it will bind. It will bind bad if trying to turn chain backwards and "crunchy" when turning forwards. Lots of times will grab the crank and can turn crank shaft... ouch. Clutch spring inspection looks ok to me, drum has quite a bit of play (can wobble around earily) but I don't know what is normal. Rim can float back and fourth on it's spur teeth -- hard to tell without clutch off if entire assembly has play on the needle bearing.

I'm guessing time for new needle bearing. Hoping clutch drum is OK.

Tried to take clutch off -- removed plug, filled cylinder with nylon cord, used 19mm wrench on hex nut I can barely grab and not having success (I think a 3/4 socket fits it about as well as a 19mm wrench).

I've read on here a 15mm wrench should do it -- no way on here. I've also read about spanner sockets to get these off ... first I heard of spanner. Would it be a 15mm spanner as opposed to 15mm regular socket which I know will not go over the hex bolt portion?

Anyone have a link to a spanner that is known to work on these? -- just need the one spanner but if a set is not too expensive I'll make the investment. Be happy to buy from a sponsor, not in a hurry to fix the saw since winter is upon us (well... not lately has there been winter!)

Also -- nylon rope got hung up on something inside (edge of a port or something) and spun backward and had to pull free and maybe some nylon fragments got left behind -- should I be concerned? (not a big piece but likely frayed stuff may have been left -- Or will this hopefully get kicked into the muffler and burn up once it heats up next time? w/o plug after getting it out spins just fine perfect now.

Thanks for any advice. Mattyo if you read this I know you've had these apart completely if you were a little closer I would come pay a visit for a little schooling and maybe some tool advise!

Here's a picture where mine should be the same parts from when Mattyo sold a whole clutch setup on the tradin' post:

http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/262xp-clutch-drum-bearing.289999/

 

[backhoelover]

this should help with all the husqvarna tool info

 

[backhoelover]

i think this is the tool you need you can make one out a old 1" deep well socket

 

[backhoelover]

i think this is the tool you need as you can see that is a 1" socket you can use a deep well and make the tool i sent this pm once already dont know why it didnt pop up

 

[malk315]

Hey thanks a bunch for the info! I got the pictures on both posts -- I'm sure this may help someone else.
I found Mattyo's youtube video removing a clutch and he made a tool also.

We have a machine shop at my work -- can probably mill out a socket on the bridgeport machine.

I saved all of the PDF tool manuals -- thanks for those too.

I noticed these average $10 to $15 in the 2014 book -- but none of them say if they work w/ a 262 clutch. I would be fine with purchasing one as I would never need to buy one again!

Once again thanks -- once I get the clutch off I'll evaluate the bearing and such.

 

[backhoelover]

good luck check this out, this is where i look up service tools alot

http://www.choochooparts.com/body_g3.asp?CAT3=79120&

 

[backhoelover]

http://www.choochooparts.com/husqvarna.asp?partnum=502514501

 

[backhoelover]

http://www.choochooparts.com/husqvarna.asp?partnum=502522202

 

[backhoelover]

i think that is the one you need i like the one i showed you can put a longer ratchet on it

 

[malk315]

I figured out what's wrong w/ a little more inspection (clutch still on though).

Clutch drum cracked at the spur teeth that the rim sprocket rides on. At the right angle I can see the needle bearing right through the crack. It's probably in 2 pieces.
This explains why the drum has extra play and it's probably the cracked part grabbing the needle bearing in a nice bind that was stopping the saw. Let pressure off and and the crank could spin when I would restart the saw.

I'm gonna need a clutch drum and needle bearing minimum. Rim sprocket probably ok since it rides on the spurs -- that was replaced when Randy went through the saw a few months back.

Might have been cracked for a little while as the chain still spun pretty nice when the parts sat in the right location

I'm guessing just fatigued from being 25 years old. I know I don't put my chains on too tight or anything like that. Takes some pretty good stress too when chain brake activated centrifugally or if you hit the chain brake by mistake when cutting etc. I usually put the brake on after spun down when safety calls for it...

Anyway -- I'm glad I found the problem. Just need to get the clutch off so I can work on it.

 

[Warped5]

Some of us use one of these:

 

[decableguy2000]

Use a standard six point socket, piston stop of your choice, impact socket works well, left handed threads. You may want to change your oil pump worm gear while your at it. Your drum may be large or small splined also which will determine the oil pump worm. PM me I have a large spline drum floating around if your interested.

Jeremy

 

[malk315]

I ordered the 502522202 from baileys since they are site sponsor and searching around it appears that one is likely the one that will work.
If it does work, I'll update this thread to confirm.

Using a 6 point socket I just can't get enough bite on the hex that is exposed... afraid I'm going to round it over and cannot get good leverage.

I will need a clutch drum -- once I get the clutch off I'll assess everything I need and then get back to you if I can get a drum from you!
Clutch itself looks good -- probably just need need drum and needle bearing. Current bearing might be fine, but it may have gotten beat up from the cracked drum and figure replace it since it's a wear part anyway.

Thanks everyone for the replies. Looking forward to making the repair and getting the saw back online.
That removal tool works for a lot of saws... will not need to make one and won't need to buy one again!

 

[Tor R]

I use Standard six point, 19mm, and the Husky plastic piston stop, but I make sure my torque point is as close as possible to the clutch. Sometimes they can stucked like hell.

 

[HarleyT]

Take a cheap socket and grind the end of it flat on a bench grinder, so that the edge has a 90 degree angle.

 

[dl5205]

It is easy to forget these are left handed thread.

I generally have good success with a pin punch, dull chisel or scrench, and a hammer. Most HuskyRed outboard clutches have a hip or an indent that can be struck, forcing it clockwise. Usually no stop needed. May not be textbook, and reportedly can sometimes break clutches but almost always works.

 

[malk315]

I've seen the tap on indent method too. The 262 doesn't really have a good spot for that IMHO.
I've been turning clockwise and there is an "OFF ->" with arrow on there to remind you.

I like the idea of grinding the round end flat on a cheap socket. But I've already ordered the tool... the socket grind will be the backup plan.

Great ideas from everyone. Thanks a bunch.

 

[CR888]

Not familiar with the 262xp exactly but like other husky outboard designs there is usually a groove or two in the clutch spider that one can sit the end of a scrench in and hit with wood block, hammer ect. That pic from warped5 is clever, I like that.

 

[Landmark]

I have used a socket and airgun to take clutch off. Mostly i use a punch and hammer with a plastic piston stop. I guess to each his own. Good luck.

 

[HarleyT]

Don't use any kind of piston stop with an impact wrench, or even a punch.