262XP clutch needle bearing, spanner for clutch removal

[decableguy2000]

If you convert to the plastic worm be aware there are 2 different ones along withe the drums. You can get large or small spline drum and the teeth that turn the worm are different sizes.

Jeremy

 

[malk315]

If I convert I'll try to get the kit that Mattyo pointed me to. I have all parts to do it keeping the brass gear continues to run oiler and will convert when things wear out or fail later. Was already into the new drum with no teeth and also new spiral washer in case mine is too wrecked (cheap for the washer). Thanks for all of the info. I need to get a project saw to help get better at working on these (don't want to mess up the 262).

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[Tor R]

Take good care of her, you have the golden version, KS + 87

 

[malk315]

Thats why I'm a nervous nellie given my experience working on saws. I enjoy running and quite skilled sharpening but need more experience with repair / rebuild.

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[gary courtney]

do not start it with out clutch cover and bar in place or you will be chasing your clutch

 

[malk315]

Absolutely! This thread turned out some good info. Hope it helps others down the road.

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[malk315]

Hey Matt-

I watched your video where you use 2 x M5 bolts to gradually remove the oiler by screwing them in a little on each side to literally pull the oiler out.
I'd like to do this on my saw to help with turning around the spiral washer.

What do those bolts bottom out on in order to do the pulling on the oiler they do? I'm just curious if it's plastic, metal, etc -- wondering if it would ruin the bolts (bugger the threads driving into metal for instance) just wondering before I dig in... I thought it was an odd design. Just being extra careful with my saw since its kinda rare.

I'm going to bring home some extra long M5 bolts from the shop to do this procedure that I don't care about the threads.

Thanks for any info.

 

[Tor R]

They are going in the crankcase. Use the two closest to the crankshaft.
Dont use extreme power. Normally the oil pump comes out easy

 

[Mattyo]

They bottom on the metal case....but you may not need to do this....it may not be as stuck as mine was.

 

[Agrarian]

Hey Matt-

I watched your video where you use 2 x M5 bolts to gradually remove the oiler by screwing them in a little on each side to literally pull the oiler out.
I'd like to do this on my saw to help with turning around the spiral washer.

What do those bolts bottom out on in order to do the pulling on the oiler they do? I'm just curious if it's plastic, metal, etc -- wondering if it would ruin the bolts (bugger the threads driving into metal for instance) just wondering before I dig in... I thought it was an odd design. Just being extra careful with my saw since its kinda rare.

They bottom out on the crankcase. No issues with the screw since it would be steel screw on magnesium. It will leave a small mark on the crankcase. Often you do not need to screw them all the way down - you can just screw them in 1/4" and pull up on the screw heads. But sometimes the washer is really pressed on there well and you need to do what he shows in the video.

 

[malk315]

You guys are great -- thanks for helping me learn. I'll give this a shot as my other parts arrived and I can get her all back to working I believe.

 

[malk315]

One question -- Does the spiral washer looks like it's on all the way?
I tapped on it w/ rear of plastic file handle to get it seated on there... does it need to be flush with oiler? Remember I've never seen how these are supposed to look! Only have seen w/ spiral outward
The oil pump is bolted down tight.

Some pics and video:

 

[malk315]

I watched Mattyo's video where he just gets the clutch off and while the video is a bit dark, that washer on the saw in that video looks the same amount protruding out or even more than my setup.
So I think I'm good to go. Will try reassembling everything else and if you guys tell me I need to anything else w/ that washer it's easy to take back off until the saw gets run again and cranks the clutch back on really tight...

I was really happy to see the condition of the bronze colored gear and the gear on the oil pump -- they look like they should be fine for a long time.
I now have a spare rim sprocket, needle bearing, and spiral washer.

 

[Agrarian]

I watched Mattyo's video where he just gets the clutch off and while the video is a bit dark, that washer on the saw in that video looks the same amount protruding out or even more than my setup.
So I think I'm good to go. Will try reassembling everything else and if you guys tell me I need to anything else w/ that washer it's easy to take back off until the saw gets run again and cranks the clutch back on really tight...

I was really happy to see the condition of the bronze colored gear and the gear on the oil pump -- they look like they should be fine for a long time.
I now have a spare rim sprocket, needle bearing, and spiral washer.

That looks good. You don't want it flush because one of the jobs of the washer is to prevent the clutch drum / sprocket from contacting the oil pump. If it were out too far the clutch drum would bind once the clutch shoes were torqued down and that would be your clue.

 

[Agrarian]

I'm guessing you already know that your top handle is missing the rubber donut that goes just above the upper mounting screw? It is common on this model as the rubber ages it cracks and falls off. This part is NLA too although you can still find them on ebay occasionally. Its purpose is to prevent the handle from wearing on the crankcase when the handle is pulled when cutting. Not a big deal that it is missing but wanted you to know.

 

[malk315]

Actually I didn't know -- so thanks! Who knows how long it's been missing we are the original owners of the saw purchased it new in 1991. Not too worried about it.
Also -- thanks for looking at it and all of your advice. Putting it all back together now. Trying out mini grease gun I got a while ago for greasing needle bearing through center hole in the crank that is a nice feature.

I'll have to wait til tomorrow for a test, I'm sure the neighbors would love to hear a ported / muff mod 262 running at 9:45 p.m. weeknight here on the east coast

 

[malk315]

All back together -- greased up new needle bearing nice and man what a difference. No play in the drum it was such a mess before. Chainbrake had gotten to be a pita to disengage and much better now. Clutch cover goes on easier now too since drum is always lined up and not flopping around... might've been starting to go for some time and then finally got to that "stopping the saw" syndrome a couple weeks ago. Will check oiler functioning well with pointing bar tip at a round and piss rev
Since pictures are always good:

 

[Mattyo]

All better

 

[malk315]

While I was at it I replaced the plug -- it was a CJ7Y and now it's got and RCJ7Y I had new old stock from my R/C planes. The resistor is for ignition noise you want that especially for R/C planes to not interfere on 72 Mhz FM. I'm wondering if with the RCJ7Y plug my FastTach will be less prone to going bonkers when the tach is held too close to the plug. I've found with my tach if I hold it too close it will have the tach just resetting over and over. I have to find optimal distance to not have reset syndrome but also be close enough to pick up the spark. Wondering is less RF noise with the resistor plug will make the tach more reliable / easier to find that sweet spot.

Oh -- and thanks again all of you guys for your help, tips, etc. Hoping this thread will be useful to someone playing with a 262 down the road.

Now I really need a project saw. May start combing the recycle center in town which is known to have stuff show up! Or Craig's list / E-bay. A buddy has 55 rancher that is an oldie that needs some TLC might be a fun project.