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sawsawsaw
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Hi - saw your post about the working coil/broken wire repair.
As the other fellow mentioned - usually you can unscrew the high voltage wire from the coil unit and replace with a donor wire from another saw etc... I have fixed several this way. You could try unscrewing the lead from a junk coil for practice to see what I mean. Those 288 coil units are hard to find so you want to be careful. I think the coil unit from a husky 42 is the same as well
Barring that, it is possible to splice together/repair the existing wire or splice on a new wire and cap assembly. You need to expose/strip enough of the conductor to do a splice/solder connection. Then it needs to be recovered with a suitable insulation material. Scotch #23 self amalgamating tape works pretty good if you're careful with stretching/wrapping it on. The repair can be covered with some heat shrink after taping. I'm sure there's other insulation methods that would work too.
I just fixed a 288 with the same problem - I guess the lead tends to get pinched between the cover and case. Mine wasnt badly damaged so It was an easy fix
Good luck !
As the other fellow mentioned - usually you can unscrew the high voltage wire from the coil unit and replace with a donor wire from another saw etc... I have fixed several this way. You could try unscrewing the lead from a junk coil for practice to see what I mean. Those 288 coil units are hard to find so you want to be careful. I think the coil unit from a husky 42 is the same as well
Barring that, it is possible to splice together/repair the existing wire or splice on a new wire and cap assembly. You need to expose/strip enough of the conductor to do a splice/solder connection. Then it needs to be recovered with a suitable insulation material. Scotch #23 self amalgamating tape works pretty good if you're careful with stretching/wrapping it on. The repair can be covered with some heat shrink after taping. I'm sure there's other insulation methods that would work too.
I just fixed a 288 with the same problem - I guess the lead tends to get pinched between the cover and case. Mine wasnt badly damaged so It was an easy fix
Good luck !
nmurph
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BA, is that you????????
HT wire is available from any auto parts store. As stated above, the wire unscrews from the module.
HT wire is available from any auto parts store. As stated above, the wire unscrews from the module.
Nuno
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First of all, i appreciate yall chiming in! Thanks for the info!
Seems that the wire is built solid on the coil, filled with plastic or something. So I'm not sure how to unscrew that, however, i feel good about splicing it. I got some wire from napa, but seems the lead was made from a fibrous material, where the original wire was metal, hence i couldnt solder it. I'll try another wire with copper or metal and try again. I'll insulate it w/ tape and shrink wrap. Once i figure out how to post pics here, I'll show the progress. Thanks again guys.
Seems that the wire is built solid on the coil, filled with plastic or something. So I'm not sure how to unscrew that, however, i feel good about splicing it. I got some wire from napa, but seems the lead was made from a fibrous material, where the original wire was metal, hence i couldnt solder it. I'll try another wire with copper or metal and try again. I'll insulate it w/ tape and shrink wrap. Once i figure out how to post pics here, I'll show the progress. Thanks again guys.
sawsawsaw
ArboristSite Lurker
Nice saw !
If you remove the coil unit from the saw, you may find that the wire is glued/sealed where it enters the coil unit. Most of the ones I've seen are old/loose already so they just unscrew easily (CCW) I've run across a couple stubborn ones that were still glued. I had to work the wire back and forth carefully to get the insulation separated from whatever glue/dielectric sealer the factory uses to hold the wire in place. Once the wire is out, you'll see a screw stud in the bottom of the hole. You may even be able to use a pick/small screw driver to help break the outer jacket away from whatever they used to glue/seal it. Hard to say without seeing it. I've never pulled one out of a 288 coil, so I can't give you specific advice there.
The automotive lead wire has a carbon type core (as you have found out) I would look for a metallic type core if i you're going to attempt a splice. This is a good reason to start collecting piles of junk saws !!
I think if you can find a way to carefully work the original wire loose and replace it - that's the best repair.
I'll try and post a pic in a little while.
If you remove the coil unit from the saw, you may find that the wire is glued/sealed where it enters the coil unit. Most of the ones I've seen are old/loose already so they just unscrew easily (CCW) I've run across a couple stubborn ones that were still glued. I had to work the wire back and forth carefully to get the insulation separated from whatever glue/dielectric sealer the factory uses to hold the wire in place. Once the wire is out, you'll see a screw stud in the bottom of the hole. You may even be able to use a pick/small screw driver to help break the outer jacket away from whatever they used to glue/seal it. Hard to say without seeing it. I've never pulled one out of a 288 coil, so I can't give you specific advice there.
The automotive lead wire has a carbon type core (as you have found out) I would look for a metallic type core if i you're going to attempt a splice. This is a good reason to start collecting piles of junk saws !!
I think if you can find a way to carefully work the original wire loose and replace it - that's the best repair.
I'll try and post a pic in a little while.
sawsawsaw
ArboristSite Lurker
Ok heres a couple pics.
The blue one is from a pioneer farmsaw. It unscrewed quite easily.
The black coil is from a Crapsman I think. I had to yank that one a bit if I remember.
Hope this helps.
The blue one is from a pioneer farmsaw. It unscrewed quite easily.
The black coil is from a Crapsman I think. I had to yank that one a bit if I remember.
Hope this helps.
site spondor has a new coil/plug wire for like 7 bucks shipped.....weedeaterman.com (i think)
i fixed a buddies hunkavara with one..
i fixed a buddies hunkavara with one..
You can't get a Fart shipped for $7.00 from Bailey's no less an actual part...
go Weedeaterman !!!
thank us when you have saws and saw parts all over your garage floor and you keep checking CL for more...... 
sure,,,,,,it's easy, go to weedeaterman.com
on the right side of his page there is a search box.
type in "plug wire" then search.
i just did it, and it's there $6.99.......wire with the boot, you cut to size........easy peasy..
good luck..
ahhhh..snap up a few pics and show us what 'cher soldering to what where there ??
Nuno
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So the fat lady sang. I soldered the spark plug wire. Looks awful, but it worked.
Ultimately i believe i will buy a new coil, but for now itll do.
I'm getting spark now... But no fuel.
I'll check the line soon and will get a kit for the carb.
Baby steps, baby steps...
