350/346xp build

[2broke2ride]

Scored this clean but apparently in need of a top end 350 today and got a NIB OE 346xp top end with it. Paid $120 which was the cost of the top end. Obviously I am wanting g to build this.
I'm not finding what I am looking for with the search. Is this a simple top end swap or is there other work I will need to do?
Any help appreciated.

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[cuinrearview]

I'm not sure where you're looking but there are tons of threads out there. You'll need to clearance the ribs on the PTO side of the plastic case and grind a notch for impulse in the bearing cup. Honestly though with a saw that new I'd sell it as is and find another home for the top end. You'd probably get close to the cost of a decent used 346 for that 350.

 

[RED-85-Z51]

I just did a top end swap on a 350 low power epa saw, mine essentially had a 353 jug with a dished piston for low compression. Mine was 52cc 45mm bore. I put on a nikasil amazon 45mm top end kit and it was a very simple job. Going to the smaller 45cc 42mm piston and cylinder...i think it does a bit more with less displacement but as mentioned there is a bit of clearancing to be done...other than that it should bolt up. I went from piston and cylinder in a box to a running saw in just a few minutes...being as i stayed with the stock type top end.

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[cuinrearview]

I just did a top end swap on a 350 low power epa saw, mine essentially had a 353 jug with a dished piston for low compression. Mine was 52cc 45mm bore. I put on a nikasil amazon 45mm top end kit and it was a very simple job. Going to the smaller 45cc 42mm piston and cylinder...i think it does a bit more with less displacement but as mentioned there is a bit of clearancing to be done...other than that it should bolt up. I went from piston and cylinder in a box to a running saw in just a few minutes...being as i stayed with the stock type top end.

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What he's dealing with is completely different than what you did.

 

[2broke2ride]

I'm not sure where you're looking but there are tons of threads out there. You'll need to clearance the ribs on the PTO side of the plastic case and grind a notch for impulse in the bearing cup. Honestly though with a saw that new I'd sell it as is and find another home for the top end. You'd probably get close to the cost of a decent used 346 for that 350.

I am probably not using the right search terms......
I did see Red's thread, but he didnt end up using a 346xp top end. I was told the top end I this 350 is roached and the guy I got it from bought the 346 top end to do the swap but lost interest. I have not checked it out myself. If it isnt bad I will just re-ring it and run it as is or sell it.

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[2broke2ride]

Are there any pics floating around to show where to grind this notch in the bearing cup? Or will it be obvious when I get in there?

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[old guy]

Get the 346 base gasket & you will see where the notch goes.

 

[huskihl]

Honestly though with a saw that new I'd sell it as is and find another home for the top end. You'd probably get close to the cost of a decent used 346 for that 350.

Pfft

 

[2broke2ride]

Well, I pulled the muffler this morning and it is scored pretty bad. I will pull the top end later. Pics to follow.
Is there a specific order to take one of these apart? I've done a couple of 346's and I find I really struggle with the carb/intake/cylinder assembly. It's like 10 lbs of crap in a 5 lb. Bag.

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[cuinrearview]

Pfft



View attachment 818015

The pros don't use sealant as a crutch to fill up gaps...

 

[2broke2ride]

Roached. Look like lean to you guys?

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[RED-85-Z51]

She got hot. Maybe lean..maybe old fuel...or some combo of many factors.

I run the muffler bolts out and remove it, pop the clamp on the boot, run the 4 cylinder bolts out and lift the jug off. The new parts i just drop the new jug down and compress the rings...slide it down and line up the boot...slip it all down and drop my bolts in. I use a pair of flatheads to snap the clip on.

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[huskihl]

She got hot. Maybe lean..maybe old fuel...or some combo of many factors.

I run the muffler bolts out and remove it, pop the clamp on the boot, run the 4 cylinder bolts out and lift the jug off. The new parts i just drop the new jug down and compress the rings...slide it down and line up the boot...slip it all down and drop my bolts in. I use a pair of flatheads to snap the clip on.

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Using that process is how the impulse nipple in the boot gets pinched off or not inserted completely.
About half of these that I get into have the impulse port pinched or kinked off.
You need to be able to physically feel the boot mating to the intake and hold them together while you install the clamp

 

[huskihl]

The pros don't use sealant as a crutch to fill up gaps...

Sorry. I ran out of glass and 2000 grit

 

[2broke2ride]

Probably a dumb question, do you guys do the grinding with the bottom end assembled? If so, what are you doing to keep the crap out of the bearings?

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[cuinrearview]

Probably a dumb question, do you guys do the grinding with the bottom end assembled? If so, what are you doing to keep the crap out of the bearings?

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Never. Grinding is done on the bench, and the cylinder is thoroughly cleaned afterward.

 

[cuinrearview]

Looks like some chuel line was used on it too.

 

[2broke2ride]

Never. Grinding is done on the bench, and the cylinder is thoroughly cleaned afterward.

I thought it was a dumb question lol.

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[huskihl]

Looks like some chuel line was used on it too.

I could see that stuff choking down right where it goes into the tank

 

[2broke2ride]

I could see that stuff choking down right where it goes into the tank

That is the return line from the primer to the tank. Everything else looks oe, what should be there?

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