350/346xp build

[huskihl]

That is the return line from the primer to the tank. Everything else looks oe, what should be there?

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I’m not certain. I’ve only seen black molded lines on them

 

[2broke2ride]

What are you guys doing for the crappy plastic boot clamp? Trimming the plastic back and clamping the rubber with a metal clamp? I have some worm clamps I bought for 346's but the boots on those didnt have the built in plastic clamp.

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[Bob Hedgecutter]

What are you guys doing for the crappy plastic boot clamp? Trimming the plastic back and clamping the rubber with a metal clamp? I have some worm clamps I bought for 346's but the boots on those didnt have the built in plastic clamp.

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If your particular clamp allows it- trim/file all the "nubs" off of the plastic exterior that surrounds the rubber- so it becomes a smooth tube with the split that allows constriction- the metal clamp goes over the plastic.
May take some trial and error dry fitting to ensure the clamp does not foul anything when the cylinder is fitted up tight.

I have not personally done so- but believe you can trim the plastic off and just clamp the rubber boot to the cylinder if the clamp of choice is too small to fit over the plastic.

Lots of other model chainsaw metal clamps work, like off the 372, 385/390 or you can even use a Stihl clamp- just wear gloves so it does not burn your fingers when you put it on the orange saw components.

 

[huskihl]

What are you guys doing for the crappy plastic boot clamp? Trimming the plastic back and clamping the rubber with a metal clamp? I have some worm clamps I bought for 346's but the boots on those didnt have the built in plastic clamp.

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The premise is the same. The ones you’ve seen were already modified for the metal clamp, or were the later version that came with the metal clamp. @cuinrearview probably knows which clamp works for each situation. I’ve used a 372 clamp slipped underneath the plastic, clamping the boot only. If you have the metal clamp version, there is enough of the plastic bracket left to justify using a larger clamp on the outside of the plastic. I believe one from a 390 or 395 works. I’ve done it both ways, but I’m not certain which clamp I used when I went over the plastic

 

[cuinrearview]

The premise is the same. The ones you’ve seen were already modified for the metal clamp, or were the later version that came with the metal clamp. @cuinrearview probably knows which clamp works for each situation. I’ve used a 372 clamp slipped underneath the plastic, clamping the boot only. If you have the metal clamp version, there is enough of the plastic bracket left to justify using a larger clamp on the outside of the plastic. I believe one from a 390 or 395 works. I’ve done it both ways, but I’m not certain which clamp I used when I went over the plastic

This is what I do. 1125 series Stihl or OE 372 clamp slipped under the plastic clamp with all of the extra tabs busted off or 385/390 or the PITA Husky one over the whole thing. If you modify the original plastic one for this just file the two ears off and leave the rest of the plastic ring.

 

[huskihl]

This is what I do. 1125 series Stihl or OE 372 clamp slipped under the plastic clamp with all of the extra tabs busted off or 385/390 or the PITA Husky one over the whole thing. If you modify the original plastic one for this just file the two ears off and leave the rest of the plastic ring.

That’s what I was thinking.

 

[2broke2ride]

I didnt get a chance to mess with this anymore this evening, had to get some customer work wrapped up. Hopefully will find time to pull the bottom end apart in the next couple days and get the necessary grinding done.

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[RED-85-Z51]

Using that process is how the impulse nipple in the boot gets pinched off or not inserted completely.
About half of these that I get into have the impulse port pinched or kinked off.
You need to be able to physically feel the boot mating to the intake and hold them together while you install the clamp

Hasnt been an issue up to this point but im not just ham fisting them together either. Piston goes up and the cylinder shifts forward...lets me align the boot easy enough and slide the cylinder and piston back into position.

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[cuinrearview]

Hasnt been an issue up to this point but im not just ham fisting them together either. Piston goes up and the cylinder shifts forward...lets me align the boot easy enough and slide the cylinder and piston back into position.

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Once you put the intake on and assemble as a sub-assembly you won't go back.

 

[2broke2ride]

Well, I buttoned up this project tonight. Too late to test cut but I think it will be a solid saw. Did a base gasket delete too, still have like .035 squish so gonna run it.

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[RED-85-Z51]

You think the muffler is open enough? [emoji23]

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[2broke2ride]

You think the muffler is open enough? [emoji23]

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I wasn't sure, was thinking of adding a third pipe [emoji1787]

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[RED-85-Z51]

Mine just has the one and no top outlet...may add a 2nd [emoji38]

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[2broke2ride]

I dont think the top outlet is doing much anymore lol.

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[2broke2ride]

Also interesting, this 346 top end was not drilled or tapped for a compression button. Is that normal? All the 346s I've worked on had them as did the original 350 jug.

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[cuinrearview]

this 346 top end was not drilled or tapped for a compression button. Is that normal?

Yes

 

[2broke2ride]

Is there any gains to be had with a timing advance on these? I've been told there is no gain on a 346.

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[cuinrearview]

Is there any gains to be had with a timing advance on these? I've been told there is no gain on a 346.

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Yes. Do the muffler first though.

 

[RED-85-Z51]

Yes. Do the muffler first though.

If he does it anymore it will be a open port[emoji1]

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[2broke2ride]

Yes. Do the muffler first though.

The muffler is pretty well done lol [emoji1787]

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