372 intake boot how are you guys torquing them?

[Brent Nowell]

The rtv I use grey with a high oil resistance. But I will not be using that any more for intake.

The cylinder was sealed with Honda Honda bond and I have used it in the past with very good success. It is really gooey when wet which is probably why a lot of people prefer three bond 1184.

I know the cylinder is sealed, I sprayed the hell out of it with carb cleaner while engine was running and no change in idle. The only spot that was affected by carb clean while running was the intake boot to carb connection. Particularly the underside.
I will probably throw an air test on, but we will see. I want to put a piece of rubber between boot and carb and of course muffler and see if there is a leak with the new parts.

The new parts should be in today, I hope they are cause there is a storm coming (snow) and it’s gonna bring down a lot of trees cause they still have leaves. I wanna see this year if I can help people out with my saws who have trees in the middle of the road or in their driveway not that I don’t have other saws but would like to test out the 372.

Nice to have this kind of support here fellas and of course any gals watching. I love it when ideas are thrown about, gives you perspective on issues that you would not see thinking about it alone.

 

[chipper1]

Even a five year old kid could figure that out! Lol.
The Emanuel came in handy.

So you got it lol.

 

[Brent Nowell]

Parts came in yesterday

Got the “cold” boot which is identical to the one I had so I’m thinking the rubber may be of a different material for colder climates?

All excited I go right after school (I’m taking my 3rd year plumbing right now at a tech school) i drive down to the store and pick em up.
I get home and carefully install them, I grabbed the torque screwdriver and converted the NM to inch pounds. It was 8-16 so I decided to go in the middle at about 12.
Loctite screws and triple check my boot to make sure that the divider is properly inserted and not bound in any way.

To put the boot on with the cylinder attached for those that have 1184 or Honda bond and don’t want to break the seal, there is an easy way to do this. Take the bottom of the air box tray off with the 4 screws and remove the intake plenum from behind the flywheel. Pull the tray out at an angle. Position the boot in the correct slot of the tray and make sure that you have some 2 stroke oil on the inside of the boot that mates up with the cylinder. It will help slide it on. Then put your metal band in and remove the screw entirely for this and spread the band out lengthways on the bottom so it’s out of the way. Now slide the boot and the floor plate in at the same time at an angle keeping the floor plate groove in the notch for the boot. If you do it right it’s very easy and slides right on. You may have to assist the bottom of the boot to cylinder with a screw drive to slide it on fully. Check with a flashlight and make sure it’s on all the way, now wrap the metal band around and insert the screw. You can’t get the band on after the boot is on with the floor plate so that’s why u need to put it in initially.

So I tighten it to 12 “ pounds and it feels way to tight, back it off to ten and still too tight so I put it to 8 and had it click on both screws.

Fire it up and same air leak!!! I’m pretty pissed about to throw the saw in the dumpster next to my garage door...

Sat on it for a day and realized I have to try again, one more try and then I’ll have to figure out a way to do an air test with the carb in place without blowing the carb!

So I take the screws out and decide to just tighten them enough so that the plastic ring is not flush with the carb, but is just snugging the boot up and then a quarter turn. Maybe 8” pounds having the plastic ring flush with the carb body was pinching the rubber in a way I cannot see??

Fire it up and idle is not fluctuating! Grab the carb cleaner and spray and no effect. Spray it again, both sides no effect. Spray it again, no effect.....

Fricken nailed it! Boot was on too tight!

Thanks for all your help boys, now it’s back to some milling time!!! Hopefully I can save another a headache or two!

 

[ken morgan]

What's this plastic part? My huztl has a metal one that the carb bolts to. Maybe you should buy the AM flange since it's not plastic.

leafy, I am interested in seeing one of these. Do you know which of the many aftermarket kits comes with a metal one?

Edit: Dumb question you sais hutzl.... now I just need to find someone to sell me just that part. anyone got a line on a friendly person who sells hutzl and will sell just this part?

Ken

 

[Leafy]

Hlproparts of you want usa shipping speed, or ebay/aliexpress /Amazon if you can wait for it to come from China.

 

[chipper1]

Parts came in yesterday

Got the “cold” boot which is identical to the one I had so I’m thinking the rubber may be of a different material for colder climates?

All excited I go right after school (I’m taking my 3rd year plumbing right now at a tech school) i drive down to the store and pick em up.
I get home and carefully install them, I grabbed the torque screwdriver and converted the NM to inch pounds. It was 8-16 so I decided to go in the middle at about 12.
Loctite screws and triple check my boot to make sure that the divider is properly inserted and not bound in any way.

To put the boot on with the cylinder attached for those that have 1184 or Honda bond and don’t want to break the seal, there is an easy way to do this. Take the bottom of the air box tray off with the 4 screws and remove the intake plenum from behind the flywheel. Pull the tray out at an angle. Position the boot in the correct slot of the tray and make sure that you have some 2 stroke oil on the inside of the boot that mates up with the cylinder. It will help slide it on. Then put your metal band in and remove the screw entirely for this and spread the band out lengthways on the bottom so it’s out of the way. Now slide the boot and the floor plate in at the same time at an angle keeping the floor plate groove in the notch for the boot. If you do it right it’s very easy and slides right on. You may have to assist the bottom of the boot to cylinder with a screw drive to slide it on fully. Check with a flashlight and make sure it’s on all the way, now wrap the metal band around and insert the screw. You can’t get the band on after the boot is on with the floor plate so that’s why u need to put it in initially.

So I tighten it to 12 “ pounds and it feels way to tight, back it off to ten and still too tight so I put it to 8 and had it click on both screws.

Fire it up and same air leak!!! I’m pretty pissed about to throw the saw in the dumpster next to my garage door...

Sat on it for a day and realized I have to try again, one more try and then I’ll have to figure out a way to do an air test with the carb in place without blowing the carb!

So I take the screws out and decide to just tighten them enough so that the plastic ring is not flush with the carb, but is just snugging the boot up and then a quarter turn. Maybe 8” pounds having the plastic ring flush with the carb body was pinching the rubber in a way I cannot see??

Fire it up and idle is not fluctuating! Grab the carb cleaner and spray and no effect. Spray it again, both sides no effect. Spray it again, no effect.....

Fricken nailed it! Boot was on too tight!

Thanks for all your help boys, now it’s back to some milling time!!! Hopefully I can save another a headache or two!

Glad you got it figured out .
Thanks for reporting the fix as well as the detailed instructions, sure someone will need them sooner or later.